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Seafoam a fix for the dirty fuel sensor?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Bobfest, Oct 19, 2020.

  1. Oct 19, 2020 at 11:51 AM
    #1
    Bobfest

    Bobfest [OP] New Member

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    Kind of as the title states.

    I have the "stuck at 1/4 tank" fuel gauge issue. If the same holds true for me, I have a dirty fuel sensor in the tank.

    Has anyone tried Seafoam in the fuel tank to try and fix the sensor issue? The theory adds up, as the Seafoam is meant to clean off carbon deposits in the systems you use it in.

    Just curious, I don't want pulling the bed to acess the tank being option #1.

    Many thanks!
     
    YardBird likes this.
  2. Oct 19, 2020 at 12:00 PM
    #2
    Lil Steve

    Lil Steve Living the dream

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    I doubt you have a dirty fuel sensor/sending unit since gasoline is a pretty effective solvent. The carbon deposits Seafoam is meant to clean are in your combustion chamber, not your fuel tank. Give this a try, hopefully this will do the trick.
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/stuck-fuel-gauge.66843/
     
  3. Oct 19, 2020 at 12:34 PM
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    Berkdawg

    Berkdawg New Member

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    I had this issue in a Ford Freestyle and I read to use Chevron Techron Fuel Treatment. It worked and the issue has not returned. Good Luck.
     
  4. Oct 19, 2020 at 12:40 PM
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    YardBird

    YardBird Native San Diegan

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  5. Oct 19, 2020 at 1:30 PM
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    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Another member had this problem after off roading. He banged on the tank and fixed it. True story.
     
  6. Oct 19, 2020 at 2:36 PM
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    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Chillin' in Alamosa

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  7. Oct 19, 2020 at 6:24 PM
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    Wallygator

    Wallygator Well Zippedy Da Do!

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    Never had this issue but I use Amsoil P.I. every oil change. I use it in everything. I'm not affiliated...May be worth a try for you?

    I put it in and beat the truck for a whole tank full....meaning full throttle starts. Random full throttle times, etc...
     
  8. Oct 20, 2020 at 8:57 AM
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    Bobfest

    Bobfest [OP] New Member

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    Haha!

    Gave the tank a good kick, that didn't work. I am going to try and take it off road a little today, see if that shakes it up a bit.
    Possibly an additive...

    it doesn't bother me too much, I will try a few recommendations here before tearing into the tank.
     
    Black Wolf[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Oct 20, 2020 at 8:58 AM
    #9
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    The cleaning agent in Seafoam is naphtha, commonly sold as white gas for Coleman stoves. You can get a gallon of it pretty cheap at the hardware store or anyplace you find camping supplies (Walmart).

    Add few ounces of that and a dash of TC-W3 2 stroke oil and you have a good fuel system cleaner/lubricant.
     
  10. Oct 20, 2020 at 9:53 AM
    #10
    BassBlaster

    BassBlaster New Member

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    Sea Foam is not just for carbon deposits! It's also to get rid of gum and varnish from fuel and fuel-burning. I am not a mechanic, it's just what they say on their website, and since I do some work for them I hear it all the time. My 2c recommendation is to use Sea Foam High Mileage -- seems a little "stronger" to me, but then again I only drive higher-mileage stuff!
     
  11. Oct 22, 2020 at 6:34 PM
    #11
    tmac58star

    tmac58star New Member

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    Double up the recommended dose of Sea Foam in a couple of tanks of high-test gasoline of your favorite brand...Chevron and Shell both have high-test and advertise their clean qualities.
    If that doesn't work, loosen the bed bolts and raise the bed and service the in-tank fuel level sender. Did this years ago on a full-sized F150 with dual tanks under the bed and two fuel pumps with bad return line shutoffs...you could fill the front tank, take off down the road, look in the rearview mirror and see gas dripping/oozing out of the rear tank filler neck because the return line valve was faulty. Went to my fav shop and paid them $10 to break the bed bolts loose with their air impact...drove it home, pulled the bolts and disconnected the lights and tank filler hoses and pushed the bed back to replace the front pump. Pushed the bed back forward, jacked it up from one side and replaced the rear pump. Took all of about 3 hours in the driveway...just me, myself and I.
    Can't imagine getting to a Tundra tank would be more difficult...or you could just drop the tank.
     

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