Speedometer off and at times does not come back down to Zero - 05 DC

Folks, I have a 2005 Tundra Double Cab 4x4 SR5

So I have an issue I am trying to solve. My Speedometer is all over the place in terms of inaccuracy. At engine start it looks like its accurate. But as I do more stop and go in traffic, I can see it starting going off by 5-10mph. Additionally, the speedo does not come back to Zero 0 all the time. Instead stopping at say 5 or 10mph. Which is what got me looking as to what is happening. Also all other gauges Techo, fuel, coolant, oil look to be running fine as well.

I do not get any CEL relating to speedometer or transmission. I have other CEL's I am trying to solve like p0420/P0430, P0418 but nothing like p0500 or similar.

So looking at a few post I found out that the 2005 onwards the speed is coming from the ABS sensor.

1. Is this true?
2. If true.. which sensors does this get this info from? is it a primary one or all 4 sensors?
3. If not true does the speedo run off the VSS of the transmission? and Should I replace just the VSS or do I need to replace input and output speed sensors form the transmission?

I can clean the ABS sensors and see if that makes a difference.. and report back. I am guessing I need to clean all of them right? I'll also see if there is any wiring shorts which may be the case.

Also this may or may not make my troubleshooting a bit harder. I used techstream to gain access to the ECU. I looks like my ECU was replace for the car as it has another VIN associate with it. I was able to program the correct VIN number for the car now. I wonder if its just better to get the whole car ecu reset by doing the 4/13 pin reset for 30 min. The only reason I say this is b/c the other VIN which I looked up with similar but not necessary have the right tire size. It was exactly the same specs other than it being a Limited and mine being a SR5.

Any help in the matter would be invaluable.

 

I have this exact issue, literally, and I've been having the darnedest time trying to figure it out. I have a 2005 Access Cab 4x4 that I bought used recently. No CEL at all though and no codes thrown.

So far I've narrowed it down to either the speedometer or the wiring. I first used a GPS speedometer in my other truck to make sure that it was accurate. I then hooked up my Scan Gauge II and pulled the MPH from the ECU of the Tundra. The speed reported by the computer matched the speed reported by the GPS for the entirety of the 20 mile test loop. Meanwhile the speedometer would change from under to over every few minutes or sometimes at every stop.

 

So before doing anything else clean the abs/speed sensors for this truck. I cleaned the speed sensors and it made the abs works every time I stop the car. I hear a short abs burrrp. And the car lurches a little bit forward.

It leads me to believe this is likely the speed/abs sensors. Now which ones I don't know yet. But hope this leads you to finding our your issue.

Also If you have to replace them they sell some 3rd party for a lot less than $200 Toyota wants for each sensor. You may even find all 4 for $100-150. So look around for that.

 

That is the only issue my 2005 Tundra Limited has, the speedometer will stay about 10-11 mph even when stopped, and sometimes when Iʻm driving 70mph, it will go to 110mph. If allowed to cool down, by morning it will be at 0. Today I took it to Tacoma Speedometer and they checked it out and it appears to be functioning with no issues. One clue, as I was out of the truck trying different things, I waited one minute and opened the drivers door and the speedometer went right to zero. They think there may be some electrical feedback somewhere. Its all stock except for a Kenwood head unit I put in 10 years ago. Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks

 

Bring it back. I’ve got same problem

 

Hello,

checking if anybody ever found a fix for the issue with the speedometer.

 

Noob here, had same problem running trails in AZ, ran 30 mph high, wouldn't zero at a stop, no money light either, my ABS is on almost always. Didn't have my scanner with me so shut down the truck for 10 mins, got rolling again, and went to 10 mph high at a stop. We got to camp, disconnected battery for about 20 mins, speedo corrected. Once I got home, scanned the system, read a ABS speed sensor fault. Cleaned all sensors, inspected rings, speedo working fine, but ABS light still on. I can't say for sure what fixed it, or if its even fixed but it was fine for the 200 mile trip back to Vegas.

 

Thanks Derek!! I appreciate it.

 

I had a screwed up ground once that made my speedo read 110MPH while sitting still, and also a few other instrument issues. Luckily I knew where it was because I had been missing with it the day before and all I had to do was fix the ground connection (passenger side kick panel)

 

Did you clean your ABS/wheel speed sensors yet?

I'd start with the rear ones first, then drive. Just so you can isolate it to one pair. If you notice an excess amount of oil and grime on the sensors, mention it, b/c that's likely symptomatic of another issue.

 

it was quite a pain to get the right rear one off, but I had success. There was some orange liquid, it almost looks rusty.. The Left Rear one did not want to come out even after I broker the piece that screws on the wheel. I ended it up leaving that one. I also tried removing the front ones, but they wouldn't budge either. My guess is that I'll have to break them out. I'm in the process of ordering some from Roc auto right now. My gosh they are expensive. I'm contemplating buying the economy ones, just not sure how durable they are.

 

I mean ... if it's a known name brand that's known to make OEM like SMP (standard motor products) and you're not buying it off scAmazon or fleaBay where counterfeits and 2nds are rampant, maybe go economy. OEM parts (Toyota/Denso/Aisin) are expensive but they also last 10, 15, 20+ years, so it's ultimately a choice ... do you want to spend $30 on a product and install it 3 times over 15 years at $90, or pay $90 for OEM and do it once in 15 years? WSS/ABS sensors are maybe one that's safe to choose off-brand, I dunno. I take it you don't have a way to see if the sensor is outputting anything, i.e. by way of diagnostic tool?

If you're new to 1st gens as your chosen name suggests, you may want to take a minute to read this.

Penetrating oil is your friend, sounds like you or your truck may be/have been in rust belt territory.

 

Thanks Shifty! Surprisingly after cleaning the one I was able to get off, my speedometer started working again, very exciting. I agree with you on the parts in going with OEM, especially if I can save some money by doing it myself. Perhaps it's good not to get too greedy . Now my brakes are pulsating even for minor stops :-(, for that reason I'll likely replace both the rears as they are a little easier to get to. Thanks again for you guys help.

 

So, started pulsing on minor stops after cleaning the sensors, didn't exist prior? Can happen if you didn't reinstall a sensor square in the hole. Alignment on those things is pretty crucial.

 

I’m squared away. Replaced the rear ABS/wheel sensor. I ended up going Holstein.. they didn’t fit perfectly as I had to tap them. Pulsing went away and speedometer started working again like normal.
Thanks for the help.

 

Update, speedo reading high: (hopefully it might help someone). Live data on Autel indicated LF/RF sensors wonky. TSS, LR/RR sensors reading same with scan gauge. Had to replace CV boots so did a meticulous clean/inspect of sensors/tone rings, (dealer wants $450 per sensor!). Reinstalled, live data reads all same, speedo accurate now. I did have a chronic ABS light, C0249 fault, replaced brake light switch. Truck is 5x5.

 

This may seem like a stupid question, but what are u using to clean those ABS sensors and how do you do it?

 

What did those Holstein sensors cost you?

 

Remove sensor bolt, I believe it's a 10mm. Carefully wriggle the sensor out. Simply wiping it off with a rag is adequate, but more importantly, if there's fluid all over it, especially if it's at the rear axle, you need to understand if you've got a problem with seal blow-by, as in, you haven't bothered to keep up with maintenance on your rear diff breather valve and are building up excess pressure in the rear. Replacing the seals sucks, and that little breather only costs $10 to replace.

You didn't bother to say where you're from. If it's a rust-belt state, you may end up breaking the sensor on removal.

It doesn't matter what he paid, what you'll pay will vary depending on your truck's configuration. You didn't bother to give a single detail on your truck, though, so it's impossible for anyone to tell you. Like ... Year. Cab type. Trim (base, sr5, limited). Engine (V8/V6). Drivetrain (4WD/2WD). Does it have VSC or not?

For example... for my 2006 access cab V8 4WD Limited, VSC trucks use a different aftermarket sensor. it's $134. Non-VSC trucks like mine the sensor is as low as $25.

Generally speaking, it can be really stupid to order aftermarket electronics parts for these trucks - the only thing that would be stupider is making the mistake of ordering from Amazon or eBay, where counterfeits are rife. Sometimes with electonic parts on these trucks, ordering brands other than Denso or Toyota will result in weird ass shit happening. In this case, maybe speedo not reading right, or brakes pulsing, or the part doesn't fit right and requires modification to the part or the truck. Adn expect the part to have a lifespan of 2-4 years. What I usually tell people is, "If the OEM lasted you 15+ years, don't you think it's worth the money to get another 10-15 years out of a single part rather than replace every 2-4 years with aftermarket parts that don't work to OEM standards?" But I understand if OEM costs 10x more, it's hard to swallow.

RockAuto appears to sell Holstein. Safe bet to buy there. Make sure you get the right part number, since there's about 25 listed for my truck alone.

 

I used non-chlorinated Brake Kleen. As far as "how", the first time I just popped the sensors out, cleaned sensors and inspected the tone rings. Didn't quite fix it. As I posted earlier, I tore an inner CV boot, so re-booted both axles, cleaned tone rings, housing etc... and replaced the brake light switch which fixed my chronic "ABS" light. Haven't had the speedo problem ever since, cruise control works too.
I'm wondering if the faulty brake switch was all I needed to do. My OEM speed sensors turned out to be just fine so spending $15 vs. $800, no brainer.
I'd say, if you're having issues with the speedo, AND your ABS light is on, change out the brake light switch first. Live data on my scanner gave me faulty front sensors - this was wrong, and I have no doubt, any dealer/mechanic would have replaced them, only to have the same issue.
I just hope guys aren't buying these ridiculously expensive OEM sensors for no reason, or worse yet, buying aftermarket when the OEM's are still good.