T-shoot P0418 & P2445 (Air Injection System Pump) - 2005 Tundra DC 4x4

Hey Folks,

So I bought a high mileage Tundra with 323k miles on it. It is a 2005 Tundra Double Cab 4x4. I am trying to troubleshoot the following MIL/CEL

P0418 - Air Injection System Air Pump Malfunction
P2445 - Secondary Air Injection System Pump Stuck On Bank 1

The car is going into limp mode due to this fault. And I am having to clear the code on a constant basis to drive it. Once I clear the code it drives fine. It does have a high hiss as if a jet engine is running which really never goes away.

I believe these codes are interrelated. Reading the interweb I was not so sure how to get this fixed. I can take the manifold out and replace the motor if needed. But again is it as simple a Air injection motor swap or something more involved?

Additionally if its just a motor swap. Does getting a non OEM motor be okay? I see it for $60 bucks online. The OEM is for $450 or something....This is a 3dary vehicle for me so trying my had at a $60 part isnt too bad for me. LMK.

Thanks

 

Several of us around here have bypassed the system instead. Another option for you.

 

So I understand we can do a bypass. Would the bypass work for emissions as well. I live in a emissions state so that is my hesitation on this.


Also I do want to know all the options. Would swapping out the motor work to clear those codes? Cause I need to do some cleaning so taking out the manifold to clean is something I need to do anyway. If I can at the same time go in and just swap the motor out I would consider that.

 

You'll need to replace the pump, and the sensor. The price just for the parts is insane!

I've never heard of anybody failing emissions after installing the bypass kit

 

I get u need to replace the pump. What sensor are you talking about? I thought there is a pump and diverter and check valve in the back.
I am not sure what sensor you are talking about. Can you please help if I am missing anything else.

Btw I am planning to replace the pump and clean the debris from the diverter. Hope that should be enough.

And finally I want to do the AIP bypass the pump altogether. I hope this should be enough and cause me to pass emissions as well. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By7JoJzynrbSSktEc1hxNHdJcTQ/view

 

These guys seem to have a pretty well-sorted set of solutions and good customer service. Give them a call, I'm 90%+ sure this will pass emissions. This is the route I would take if I had your codes: https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=12

Mine hasn't failed and I dont have any codes, so I'm preemptively bypassing the system with one of these BEFORE I develop issues: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Slyfox75-A...G-CABLE-for-Tundra-Sequoia-LC-LX/143371402266

 

Sorry, meant the check valves. Why replace anything if you are doing the bypass?

 

Your best bet is the bypass kit like our V36HPPP kit. It will stop the system from running and the Pump Proxy Pack kit addon it comes with will let you clear the P0418 code without pulling the intake manifold. The aftermarket parts are not recommended, especially if you have to pull the intake to replace them. They often do not work from the start or only last for a short time before failing again. Even the expensive factory parts will fail again. If you have any questions or need help just let us know. 1-844-307-7671 support@hewitt-tech.com

 

@hewitttech I appreciate the info on this. I found another way if you are willing to do some of the work yourself and save a boat load of money on AIP bypass ($355 pro kit (Hewitt Tech) vs $48 (Slyfox75 ebay kit) vs < $20 DIY kit (Same thing as Slyfox kit but you make it yourself). The difference is the $355 will be a bolt on kit (no wire cutting) vs $48 & $20 is where you will cut 1 wire coming of the MAF sensor of your car. All the kits will do exactly the same thing. The Hewitt does have a extra steel block off plate for some conditions where you may need it. If you bypass this before the CEL start showing then at most times the block off place is not necessary.

However for some reason the $20 trick is not discussed on the forums as much. At least for the people who want to DIY and save money that option should be given. Anyways I followed the AIP bypass diy instructions and was able to fix this CEL. Now whenever the truck turns on it reads a really low intake air temp (IAT) value and does not engage the AIP system at startup. (FYI - IAT value is the THA pin on your MAF - This can be different pin on the MAF for different Gen of Tundra's)

BTW I will hopefully write DIY instructions for the 1st Gen Tundras to help others with this problem.

 

Just to clarify our standard plug and play kit for the 2005-2007 vehicles is our V36H kit which is currently $149 + Free Shipping for the whole month of Nov. 2020 with coupon code "fall36sale".
The kit you are quoting from us for $355 was the pre-sale price of our V36HPPP kit which is the V36H kit plus a Pump Proxy Pack (PPP).
The PPP is the extra kit addon the Gen-I units need to turn off the P0418 code without having to pull the intake manifold to replace the actual pump motor it is an additional $155 by itself.

The method you are discussing has been around for a long time and even I wasn't aware of it until after I developed the my first bypass kits. There is actually a PDF floating around somewhere already for it. It is a viable solution for certain vehicles and code but is very installer dependent on getting it to work right. Most people including myself do not want to have to run wires back and forth across the engine bay and cut/splice wires. What we hear from most of our customers is that the time and effort required to do the home-brew/slyfox kit is not worth the trouble and they just want something that will work straight out of the box and is easy to install. We also sell plenty of our kits to those who have ungracefully tried to do the home. All of our kits do also include the block off plates. We recommend their installation even if you don't need them at the time of installing the kit because those valves can still leak in the future and put you back into limp mode. It is a complete solution when you install the block off plates. Just a few things to consider and I applaud your effort and would like to see you help support the community as well.

 

To do the DIY bypass kit yourself for your Tundra follow the attached guide. However be warned some different codes for AIP may not go away even after the DIY bypass kit since your pump is stuck in a on position or similar.

Also this bypass of written for the 2nd Gen Tundra. But I was able to adapted it for the 1st Gen Tundra. The major thing you have to keep in mind in the wiring is the MAF sensor need the "THA" sensor input. Which is different pin in the 1st gen Tundras vs whats the guide for 2nd Gen Tundras.

Same file by linked by Google - DIY AIP Bypass

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By...cTQ/view?resourcekey=0-pJ-CwS0CO5WG-W3EF04vXw

Also looks like someone has a Youtube video on this DIY procedure now . But this is still for the 2nd Gen Truck. The 1st Gen has different wiring.. The MAF THA pin is most likely the Yellow-Green. But please check it to make sure. At least for the 2006 DC v8 it was the "Yellow Green" pin on the MAF.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmHEE52BW28

Here is the link to the EWD wiring diagram reference for your truck.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-tundra-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

 

@baraynavab I will second your comments and warning about splicing into the factory wiring harness. Additionally about ensuring you have the correct wiring diagram and colors for the vehicles Year/Make/Model/Engine Size. Last I want echo our previous post above...

Since this last post we have actually developed a more comprehensive Bypass Kit and even more competitive pricing on Gen 1 Bypass Kit. I have includes additional resources below about the SAIS.

What Does the Secondary Air Injection System Do?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-does-the-secondary-air-injection-system-do.113683/

What Do My Secondary Air Injection Error Codes Mean?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-do-my-secondary-air-injection-error-codes-mean.113686/

How to Fix Secondary Air Injection System?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.113688/

 

FYI for those interested to go for the smaller DIY fix of doing what did. I.e. making my own Slyfox kit. Here's a video of how essentially by solution looked like. It shows you how this is done. Not hard to do at all. But you gotta know which pins is the THA pin on your engine and year (4.7l vs 5.7l - Also depending on the year of the engine the MAF could have slightly different wiring). So I would just check the EWD (Engine Wiring Diagram) for your vehicle engine and year and verify the MAF wiring for the THA pin and only tap that wire.

Additionally if you dont like cutting and tapping the MAF then you can get the MAF terminal female and male ends and make it plug and play. I am sure you can find the part number for the MAF terminal end by searching for them online.

instructions on how to do all this is given in post #11 above - link for ease - https://www.tundras.com/threads/t-s...m-pump-2005-tundra-dc-4x4.74512/#post-3178544

 

Hello I'm new to this forum. So I bought a new pump from toyota for $700 but I'm still getting the code. Not sure what else is need to do.

 

What’s the code? Exactly.

There are a few codes related. And when you replace the pump you need to do the valves etc. on the back of the intake/block area also, potentially the solenoids - the solenoids are easy to test and sometimes the pump is totally fine, it’s the solenoids that fail, and you don’t even need to pop off the manifold to do the solenoids. Hell, sometimes it’s the f’n vacuum lines for the solenoids that get unplugged or fail (which live above the passenger valve cover/injectors), much again, are easy to test.

There are a few things that can cause misc SAIS codes, but if you can’t tell us what codes you’re getting, we have no way to know what you may’ve missed or what the actual problem is. And it’d help to know everything you’ve done and why, what you saw or heard that caused you to swap the pump while potentially ignoring all the rest of the SAIS system.

 

I'm getting the p2445 code. So the reason I swapped the pump is because on the cold start it was making a loud noise ( kinda like a vacuum or shaver noise). I also put a new starter since they are next to reach other. I also did a head gasket job. Basically I did all these things at the sams time.

 

Head gasket or valve cover gasket? Head gasket is some serious f’n surgery!

Did you verify the vacuum hoses and solenoids are OK? If the pump was noisy, it was probably going bad. But it was potentially making noise because solenoids weren’t throwing, because a hose or valve was bad, and valve wasn’t opening. Similar to what happens with a shop vac when the hose is clogged with something. Pump whines like hell! You may not have needed to do any of the invasive work you did!

 

Yes it was head gasket and I checked everything. Head gasket was bad because it was leaking coolant and with the new pump I'm not getting that noise again. I can hear the pump working because after a minute or so I can hear the pump shutting off (like a turbo noise).

 

Did you verify the solenoids are working, and the valves?

 

I did not. I just finished the car 2 weeks ago. Is there a way to test them?

 

It’s a long video, but this is what I would recommend you watch. If a picture is worth a thousand words, a moving picture must be worth billions. Video is longer than it needs to be but it shows you a lot of info about debugging the SAIS valves and solenoids:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AexcFsZM6eo​

 

Thank you. I will watch the video and update you once I find the issue

 

So I took the pump out and cleaned the everything up again, this time I got the P1442 code

 

SAIS isn't exactly my wheelhouse but I feel like I have a decent understanding of it. Lemme ask ...

Did you verify the valve solenoids (as shown in the video) are working as expected? You can generally use the unscientific process homey in the video is using. If the solenoids aren't opening the valves, OR the vacuum tubes are cracked and can't hold suction, then the solenoids aren't going to be able to open/close the valves.

Did you replace any of the valves in this process, or just swap in a new pump? Typically speaking, I'd want to do it all at the same time.

 

Another option is to relocate the pumps to a more accessible location