Negative camber issue please help

I have a 2010 Rock warrior with 35” tires, a 6” lift and icon suspension and upper control arms. I also have a c4 bumper and winch.
I have too much negative camber and the cams on the lower control arm are maxed out. It wears out the inside of the tires and screeches whenever I turn at speed and when I hit bumps. I just tried a new shop for an alignment but it still screwed.
What should I Be looking for? If there another way to adjust camber?

 

Are your coilovers turned up really high?

 

Curious, do you know how close to spec the Toe part of the alignment is? I thought I had the very same issue and thought it was camber as well but it turned out the toe on my alignment was significantly out of range, causing the outer part of the tire to wear down fast from it scrubbing.

 

The alignment shop said it was toed out and they tried to get it better but that adjustment is maxed out as well.

 

What upper control arms? Pictures of your setup?

 

It sounds like because of the 6" lift on your truck that there isn't enough thread in the tie rods to be able to adjust your toe. There seem to be other threads talking about steering issues with guys running 6" of front lift.

 

Icon tubular arms? I've found those particular arms are too short, a full 3/8" shorter than MCM arms for example. I was also unable to get sufficient caster with them and know several people who've had the exact same problems.

 

Here are some images

 

Tie rods look maxed

 

Everything is maxed out

 

831tun guessed the arms sight unseen

 

Lot of info on the page, so it was a pretty well educated guess lol

 

Simply confirming.

Just because a tech states its maxed, doesn't necessarily mean the component itself is. They might have stated it was maxed due to the lack of adjustability from a counterpart component.

 

I have a some stupid questions...

First set,

When did your alignment issues start?

What was done leading up to?

 

I had positive camber before I put the ucas on and the tire was wearing on the outside, then after the ucas I have negative camber.

its never been perfect

 

you have a 6" lift,

you do have the correct length coilovers for you lift, yes?

your lift is in fact 6"?

mind posting up a pic of the rear cam bolts as well please?

 

Yes that’s those are for a 6” lift

 

I see the extended rod end,

And they are properly set with the correct preload to be set properly with the DB for 6" of lift, correct?

I told you I would be asking "stupid" questions...

 

They are set for 6”, I had to lower them a little probably to account for the sag in the rear leafs over time. They wore the same before I adjusted the coilovers

 

At this point, as @831Tun noted - you may need to change them out to remedy your concern.

Not what you wanted to hear, but from the sounds of it --- Icon got the best of another one...

 

Well, if it makes you feel any better, not only did I have Icon's that wouldn't allow proper alignment numbers but I'm now on my 6th set of UCAs.

 

WTF?!

please, share and explain the history so the OP doesn't have to go through 6 himself...

Plus, ill be in the market for my (technically) 3rd set lol

 

OEM of course then all the mods began. I tried Camburg ball joint first and caster was up in the 7* area which was too much for my MT setup. Then I bought Icon tubular for the Delta Joint but could never get close to proper caster or camber #s. I don't remember how far off the camber was but caster wouldn't get higher than +/- 2-2.5*. Then I was finally able to get a set of MCM arms and the world was right again. 0* camber and 4-5* caster no problem. Then I went Total Chaos long travel. The used setup I bought included non heimed arms and I had neg camber numbers again but caster was good. I learned later that the neg camber was caused by bent shock buckets from driving hard off road, had to have a frame shop pull 'em back out and a bucket brace installed over the engine. But, before I learned what was going on I bought a set of Total Chaos heimed LT arms and the sun shines once again on this dog's ass. LOL

 

Same issue here, currently have the Camburg (uniball) installed.

Previous 3"+ lift I was OK with the #s - but now that I am about 2.75" of lift, the built in caster is more cumbersome than helpful.

I like the recessed uniball hardware on the Camburg, which is honestly the only reason I have continue on this long.

Going heimed uppers next, just not sure which ones.

I like the Icon due to being able to adjust them on the vehicle (unlike TC and Burg).

 

I may adjust the coilovers for more lift, see if I can get it better, then add to the rear

 

Has anyone tried cutting the tire rods?

 

Would negative -0.7 camber wear my tires bad?

 

They could wear inside more quickly