What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Indeed, that’s all that’s left. Gonna plastidip them black soon. Want a new front bumper....but my wife says I have to hit something first hahaha....bring it on deer hahaha

 

Installed my new P3 yesterday. Not loving how close it sits to the shifter. Any feedback on that location? Will possibly relocate to the cigarette lighter cubby. Anybody have any experience with that?

 

I just put one on mine....

 

Do you have a build thread? I can’t find one lol

 

starlight

 

I have my prodigy p1 in the same location as you, slightly smaller controller but I love the location. It’s the best spot in my opinion for it. Close to the driver for emergency manual control. Yes, it’s close to the shifter when it’s in park but when you’re driving the shifter is plenty far away from the controller in my opinion.

 

That is pretty sweet.

 

X2

 

Finally got em on.


Stuck a TRD on each side of my shell too.

 

Did the DIY bed rails mod per @csuviper's thread (https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-unistrut-bed-rails-cheaper-option-than-oem.1906/) with superstrut in preparation of putting a cap on the bed later this week. Spent a grand total of $52! I am too embarrassed of the current condition of my truck bed to include pics, though.

 

Pulled the dash on request of mom.

I was digging around for the part number for the info switch.

Found it, and discovered I can just pop it out without removing the whole drivers side dash trim I liked the challenge anyway.

Found the part number, and did a few Googles. Found a link to the part.
Wiped everything down with 303.
Re-installed.

Now I'm curious about cleaning behind the shifter.

As you can see, she keeps her rig all crummy. Anyone have any tips on how to pull this one out? I tried a few different ideas I had, but didn't want to try too hard. Seems fragile.

 

Yea I extend the wire harness and relocated in between the 12v plugs

 

What is this witch craft

 

I just had mine apart again.

-Remove the map holder cover and the piece for the two large cups.

-Open the console lid. There's a notch for the catch that holds it closed, you get your fingertips in that and you can pull that section up that has the rectangular pocket with the condiment dip in it in your photo.

-There's a plastic screw that's holding a tab on the silver shifter surround. Remove screw.

-I'm trying to recall if it's required to remove the piece with the two charging ports, if so just put your hand in the cubby palm up and pull out while pressing up on the inside of the cubby so the top edge of the panel comes out and you can get your fingers in there to remove it the rest of the way. You don't have to unplug the wires, just move the piece to the side a bit.

-Set the Parking Brake!

-Remove the small square cover for the Shift Release, stick the erasure end of a pencil in the opening to press the button and move the shift lever to Neutral.

-Unscrew the shift knob.

-Now you should be able to pry the silver surround up and back. It may help to slightly pry up the right side of the panel for the gauge cluster, you will need to do this to reassemble so may as well do it.

-Now you can disconnect the connector for the Locking Center Differential switch.

I think that should be it. I've never tried to disassemble the PRND portion of the shifter so I can't advise you any further. If I forgot something, it'll be obvious. I remember staring at if for a bit before remembering how to begin even after having it apart a few times before. After the first portion, it make a little more logical sense.

 

Sequoias and Land Cruisers are equipped this way. And a very few of us that have done the transfer case swap only possible on 2007-2013 Tundras. The T-cases in the Seq/LC has a Torsen differential in them that can be locked and unlocked. The Tundras center differential is locked in 4H and 4L, that's why you can't be on a high traction surface and turn. The Seq/LCs can.

 

It looks like a special faceplate adaptor. Where do you find that?

 

Looks great. Do you have a link for those TRD badges?

 

i bought the ones below off EBay. been on the truck for a year no issues to report. They have 3M backing tape.
$32 shipped for 2. A bit less red so another option.

 

Anybody on here have luck with power stop drilled and slotted rotors? For the front

 

Earl from ESP made it...it was a prototype but you don’t need it to install it. It just makes the finish look good. I haven’t seen it yet in his website but I’m sure you can give him a call and he can get you more info on production.

 

Get the StopTech Sport Cryo treated slotted only rotors. The drilled and slotted are known to cause pulsation.

 

Well, here's the link from my Amazon order a couple of weeks ago, but it looks like they're gone now.

Maybe they'll become available again soon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BJV2QYV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here's a bit of the description.

 

We went out on the OBX beach today to see if we could get a look at the Corolla Horses. It was awesome and the Tundra did great

 

Have had mine for a little over a year now. Zero issues.

 

Painted my RW grille. Started with chrome, bought an unpainted black grille that I rocked for probably 2 years and now painted it. Keeping the chrome for a return to stock if necessary. Thinking the Toyota emblem would look good white....? And now, on to the last chrome delete - the bumpers!

 

daschunds have the highest bite rate out of any dogs out there. thankfully they are rather small. they were used to hunt out rodents from holes back in the days.

 

are these oem tundra wheels? if so what year

 

Correct, they are off a current TRD off-road package. Came on the truck when I bought it and I just plastidipped them. Used to look like this.

 

100% hate my drilled and slotted. goping back to smoothe OEM after these, they vibrate like crazy on highway driving.

that's what i was going to say! aside from that truck is gnarly inside...

 

wow what a real difference! didnt realize it was the same wheel