1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I was thinking of a wet sanding technique with super fine grit sand paper, or something. There are quite a few superficial scratches that I've been thinking about.

I was planning on removing the gauge cluster again eventually.

In the blue circles are the 194 LED backlights I installed who knows how long ago...

Pink is all the indicator lights such as CEL, Low fuel light, etc... Still incandescent bulbs in those locations. If memory serves @empty_lord mentioned Neo-wedge products for these locations? I can't remember if the bulb is removable from the twist base in these areas. If so, I think it'd be a T5 LED?
The one pink with a red arrow burned out a long time ago, and I never replaced it when I did the 194s. Having that one dim section of dash has been bugging me more, and more.

In green are the shift lights. Not sure if there are any led aftermarket twist bulbs for that. I hope so, but want to have all parts on hand when the dash comes apart again. Any help here on these? I know PHM went OEM in this location for fitment purposes, but I never wanna tear the cluster out again after this. The buck stops here.

 

I think I'd go with a plastic polish on the lens over sand paper.

The fuel light has to stay incandescent or it won't work. There's a chart in the FAQ with all the bulb numbers.

 

The 4 blue circled and the one pink with arrow I replaced with LED. The green area I just replaced the P and D with OEM. The others I left alone as they probably will never go out. If they do go out then just use incandescent to be on the safe side.

 

I just watched a youtubes and the guy was feather dusting his dash lens!

He used Chrome and Mag Polish on the lens with a conical buffer on an extension with his cordless drill.

I have some and just used it the other day to polish my Aluminum Battery Hold Down Bracket. Never tried it on plastík.

 

Before.

 

Damn you need to Novus that lens to get the scratches out. The dust is nothing compared to those damn scratches. Process to use it is basically this but you could probably get away with just using 600 wet, then 1200 wet, then doing the 3 Novus and 2 Novus steps.

 

You think he used his ice scraper on there?

 

Acrylic finger nails















I do drag shows on the side...
​

 

If I didn't know any better I'd swear he used steel wool to clean it, or even worse a Brillo pad

But seriously, I get it. That's a scratch prone spot. And plastics/acrylics tend to get those weird 360° scratches everywhere, although I won't pretend to understand why. Every acrylic turntable lid I've ever seen has them. It's tedious to get them out, but it's a one-tie investment to buy several years of smooth plastic!

 

never seen one leak. but it can happen.

 

they should be toshiba type T bulbs. the switches in our trucks are neowedge.


DO NOT CHANGE THE LOW FUEL LIGHT TO LED. the bulb acts as a resistor and the light will not function correctly with an LED

 

I remember seeing the Toshiba twist base now that you've jogged my memory, but I can't remember if the pink bulb(s) is "removable" from the base. Its been awhile since I've been in that section of the dash.

10-4. I know my low fuel light worked as of last year when I ran her low to make sure. It was weird seeing it slowly come on, and off. Fading in/out.

 

they can be removed but finding an LED that fits and doesnt hit the lense is the issue

 

Hmm, I see. Maybe the push in base of an led could be trimmed down.

 

might finally found myself a mk2 MR2. utah $2000.. someones going to look at it and check for rust and collision damage. so fingers crossed its a good one..
n/a manual with a bad 2nd gear syncro (doesnt matter its getting a Scion TC 6 speed manual with a toyota sienna 3.5l

 

My friends dad works at TRD as a dyno opperator and I went over to fix his computer. As payment I got a free trd hoodie c:

 

I have always wanted a mr2. Alot of clapped out ones over here, nothing relatively stock. Mighty car mods did some videos with one they bought and seems like and interesting car to work on

 

Why V6 instead of turbo 4?

I know this is against the laws of the universe but a Chevy 6.2 isn’t that far off in weight and size compared to the V6

 

Soooo.




Is he adopting?

 

The Toyota 3.5l happens to be a fair bit lighter than the stock turbo motor, bolts in mostly with only one custom mount required, wiring is not a big deal with only 40ish wires to make everything including cruise control work, with exhaust work a stock 3.5 out of a siennna with the oil cooler can push 300hp to the wheels with the e153 transmission reliably on a track for hours at full 7500rpm, with cams and springs stock bottom end will make power well over 8000rpm reliably.


And I have a 3.5 sitting at the lockup with 16k miles that needs a rebuild because water got into it. So 400-450whp n/a I’d easily achieved bumping it up to 3.7l and 12.5:1 compression with 93 octane gas.

 

That all makes sense but the last part is a done deal. You have the motor all ready, that’s all you had to say


You may have to start a build thread, I’m interested in seeing this happen. What are your plans for the computer? I know toyo computers are a pain and very difficult to hack.

 

toyota sienna ECUs have been cracked and can be used with no issues even with a built motor all i need is different injectors and it'll run fine

 

and i'll have a build thread. it'll be a while.. i just want an MR2 before theyre too expensive to actually get my hands on

 

and my god do they sound amazing in an MR2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3BWZho2bkk

 

Ohhhhh that does sound nice. Some day I’ll get a chance to build something

 

Wallace Wurrld Price Games. Both are the exact spec and both sold at their store.

 

guuurll! We need to get you a new nail file.

 

@empty_lord
Thought I should look in my area to see if there’s any for sale not an mr2 but it’s small and rwd, classic

 

That was some amazing amount of gnarly oil you caught up in those ‘catch can’ pictures you put up the other day. How many miles since you last drained it till those pictures you just put up?

 

You could try. Best thing is just buy the OEM bulb for P and D. Its a tight fit (she said).

Hows that Fog Switch Bulb Project going?