What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Started cleaning my new to me Tundra today. It has the original wireless headphones for the dvd player with the bags in the center console. lol

 

tried to do the hellwig helper springs today...again....without success. First time I was at work and had a rough time breaking the U-bolts free and then realized I probably want another set on hand in case one snaps off. So i got a new set delivered today...went to go get everything done and the new U-bolts are about 2-3inches shorter than mine but made for my truck....then the light bulb went off. The PO had a block lift in the back so now I have to get longer bolts and once they come it try everything again....so annoying. I feel like I've left my mind back in May and never found it by the way some of these days are going lately.

 

Can you take a picture of the plug area on the back side of the center console, just above the rear cupholders?

 

Checked tire pressure cold, bumped them all to 39.38psi. Then I greased all the zerks, midway thru my gun got a air bubble, thought it was empty, opened it up and saw what was going on, jimmied with the plunger and started pumping and was back under the truck

 

Is it possible to tighten up the mirrors on our trucks? My driver's side one is getting pretty wobbly in normal driving conditions.

 

Quick tip/write up
I tackled the cracks on my coils with a write-up I saw from a while back. Apparently you can heat shrink the coils and it will keep all the electricities inside better.

I also quickly learned that the heat shrink makes the coil diameter too large and the wrapped coils will not fit back into the engine no matter how much you spit on it.

Long story short, don't even bother trying to do this fix. It won't work. Maybe I can smear some JB weld on the cracks, but that can be for the future when I'm in the mood again. Lol

 

Yes. I’ll draw up a fix. You must remove the mirror to tighten the 3rd and most important one. To access the mirror removal posts/bolts you must remove the entire door panel.

Fun stuff the first time, but you’ll remove the two Torx screws at the door handle, the one screw at the pull lever, and two screws behind the little cover things that need popping off first. Once those screws are off then its a matter of prying the bottom corners up and softly get your fingers under and pop the plastic plug inserts off one at a time with leverage. They are about every 10inches along the sides and bottom. The top is hooked on with a metal bracket and lifts off once the plastic plugs are popped.

Now you’ll need to disconnect the tweeter and courtesy lights wires/connectors. I forgot to tell you to remove the door lock/window up/down first by using a push under to depress the spring clip. Do that first before removing the panel as its harder to do it after the panel pop off. No other easy way to remove the tweeter/courtesy connectors until the panel is swinging in your one hand and you are balancing the other tasks with your other hand.

 

I see your a scissor man! I’ve got the same milwaiki ones, and a few pairs of the old steel ones like you’ve got too.

 

Yeah buddy. The Milwaukee's are real nice. Power and precision. I use the old metal ones for junk cuts.

 

I have the Milwaukee up high so momma(whos short) and the kids can’t find them. I specifically have them ontop of the outside fridge to cut thick polyester batting for my fish pond filter haha

 

Nice try though. Seems like a good idea if the Coils are still in spec. I know those new Densos are $480 for 8 new ones, but better than them going out one at a time.

 

I keep watching one on plug changes and keep thinking I should just buy two every month for a while till I replace them all.

edit:
Just ordered two, $114 yikes. These are more expensive to replace than my wife's BMW ones!

 

Or, just sock the money into a reserve acct just in case you need it for other stuff. If you don’t then buy all of them simultaneously once you have the $480.

 

well I know one of them is cracked as well as they have 205K miles on em so it's nice insurance when going on camping trips with it.

 

Thats a good point.

 

AND I need to do rear brakes...was gonna go with the CENTRIC KIT126D and hopefully I don't have drum balance issues and then see if I can get my drums turned...not even sure if the current ones are OEM or not though.

 

Old OEM front vs rear speakers. These have pumped out a lot of tunes over the years as best as they could. They still sounded pretty good. Probably would have kept them if it were’t for the window track rattle repair which requires the speaker removal. Doing the LED Strip Signal was a cheap $8 bonus while in there and I got to tighten that 3rd Nut on the side mirror. I don’t ever want to go back in these panels for a long time!

Chapter closed.

 

Ran it over to a parking lot to shoot rockets with my kiddos. To keep mama happy, we used “safe” rockets using baking soda and vinegar - fail. Maybe 10 feet max of lift. We tried, time to get engines and igniters involved

 

They should have identifiers on them IIRC. I kept mine. I wire brushed all surfaces and they cleaned up like new. Painted the outsides. The drum contact surface had some grooving and wanted to have them turned, but it seems like a lost art and would have had to drive them 30 miles as all the other shops stopped doing them close by. Probably due to cheapo drums kits that create problems like @empty_lord says.

Save what you can and reuse! Mine are working nicely with New Toyota Shoes and cylinder rebuilds.

 

So you kept the drums and didn't turn them?

 

Correct. I read and heard complains from reviews and @empty_lord about these newer drums. Figured turn the ones I have, but too much trouble because nobody does them anymore around here. Mine had some grooving for sure, but they are balanced and not warped as far as I can tell. Smmmooovvv driving right now. Quiet and no wobbles/shakes or weird stuff going on anywhere. Truck stops solidly without the pulsations I lived with for 8 years due to front rotors warped. I know that feeling well and would nip it if it was going on in the drums.

 

maybe I will just do that then. Preference on shoes?

 

Toyota! Or, NAPA Import Japanese.

 

Great picture!

 

cleaned and lubed up the vent control pivot arms....man you gotta contort into a pretzel to get that screw out/in without dropping it to remove the black duct work. Nonetheless the controls are smooth now. Hopefully that ends the breaking of the HVAC knobs.

 

Fixed 5 things and now after a day of playing found another thing to fix...anyone running suspension Maxx end links. I don't have my lift on yet but want to run the extended ones once I do get the lift installed.

Anyone have input on running extended ones on stock suspension till I get the lift. Maybe a month or so...

 

What suspension are you doing for the front?