Not sure if I need a high output alternator or maybe double battery setup?

So, I recently installed an entirely new stereo/amps/speaker/sub system into my 2018 Platinum. I am about to install several LED pods and light bars. My question is what is the stock amperage of our alternators? I think it's in the 100 to 150amp area. I am weighing whether or not to install a heavy duty 270amp alternator or maybe a double battery setup? I am sure some of you have done one or the other and can help me make a wise decision. Thoughts?

 

I have the genesis dual battery kit. All my light and extra stuff is hooked up to the extra battery. It works well and the stock alternator can easily charge both. I read somewhere that some high output alternators dont work right. There was a thread where a guy said his wouldn’t charge at idle cause rpm was too low and his truck would die at stop lights. But I read that years ago and don’t remember details.

 

The dual battery setup is the most common solution. We install them on heavy duty loads on work trucks. Ya just need to find a good spot to install another battery.

 

Yes, I've seen the Genesis kit. I am assuming that the kit requires physically smaller batteries to compensate for the lack of space. What batteries did you choose to use? And yes, I too saw that post regarding the heavy duty alternator not charging at idle (it was on the Tundratalk.com website, if memory serves, but he did eventually get it to work). Regardless, I am all for a dual battery setup as long as the main battery power/life does not have to be compromised for the sake of space for the second battery.

 

I have 2 odyssey 25-pc1400t. They are plenty to start and run accessories. But one went bad the first winter. It wouldnt keep a charge over 12.2/.3 within a few hours of stopping the truck. In a day or so it was under 12. I was thinking of going with an optima red top and yellow top next time.

 

I'm not saying that I know this to be absolutely true, BUT, I read that the company that used to make OPTIMA batteries was bought by another company and that the quality of said batteries is now crap. Any truth to that?

 

I've covered this topic several times here and told myself I wouldn't do it again.

No......................urban legend. Johnson Controls Power Solutions Division moved the Aurora, Colorado plant to Mexico in 2006. There were some quality issues at first which is quite normal when relocating a complete manufacturing facility anywhere. I know this. I used to go to the Aurora facility as part of our calibration contract that we had with Johnson Controls. Same setup in Mexico. THE EXACT SAME MANUFACTURING PROCESS and 99.99% pure virgin lead is still being used.There were disgruntled ex employees that posted a lot of crap after they lost their jobs. Understandable of course. I'd be pissed too. Nothing is perfect. No battery is perfect. Took a few months to get the bugs out. I have a Red Top in my Tundra now. Optima is still the top selling AGM worldwide. For good reason. A little over a year ago Clarios, based in Wisconsin, took over Johnson Controls Power Solutions Division. Nothing has changed other than the Clarios name at the bottom of the battery sticker. Maybe Clarios will bring back the production line here where it should be. I've seen posted here recently of issues cropping up with NorthStars and Odysseys which are high maintenance AGM's unlike the Optima's. Red Tops are a great starting battery. Super quick charge to the starter. Yellow Tops are ideal for deep cycle situations or if you run a lot of of high current draw lights, winch or stereo. Blue Tops are ideal for boats and RV's. Optima makes batteries for your specific use. I'm not running any high current draw lights so I'm quite pleased with my Red Top. Engine cranks super quick even when the temps drop below zero F. Super quick. Less wear and tear on the starter.

 

Hmm, they had a Johnson Controls in Canby Oregon. I actually applied for work there a few years ago. Anyway, I m going the high output route. I ve decided on DC Power Engineering. I ve been unable to find bad reviews on them. They are costly though.

 

Johnson Controls is a large company and has numerous locations nationwide usually providing environmental controls installation and maintenance where temperature, humidity, and differential air pressure is of concern.

 

Well, I hope that you will post your results and opinion on the alternator once you have used it for a bit.

 

There are couple members here that went with DC Power Eng alternators. Nice.

 

Pods, LED bars, etc, do not draw a lot of power, so i do not see the need for an alternator upgrade and as someone stated too much alternator output isn't so good for a few reasons. Why not just install a high Farad for each amp you are using. You will notice a huge difference in power drainage elimination. The potential energy in a capacitor is stored in an electric field, where a battery stores its potential energy in a chemical form. ... However, in general batteries provide higher energy density for storage, while capacitors have more rapid charge and discharge capabilities (greater Power density). This helps dramatically. Just my two cents..

 

You have a 170amp alt stock. Unless you’re planning on running a window unit, a refrigerator and a microwave, there is no need for a bigger alternator for any amount of led lights. You just need a better battery and possibly a voltage booster to bypass the stock regulator.

 

Some folks that upgrade to high output alternators are doing on trail emergency welding fixes.

 

3000~ watt sound system is my reason. Along with a high output alternator, I ll be installing a Northstar SMSAGM220, in the cab also. All that should keep my components happy.

 

Sure thing

 

@preacher35 , I was pondering the same question, and just decided to "take a chance" on the factory equipment. I have (5) LED bars, LED rock lights, back-up flush mount LED bumper lights, LED panels above the front bumper, an under-hood LED bar, and a 1,000 watt JBL amp running by (2) 10" subs. Yes I am an LED junkie . I have been running this set-up for over a year now on the factory battery and alternator, and fortunately I have had no issues, even when running all the LED bars, rock lights, LED panels, and amp at once trailing in the woods. Even though they say they draw a certain amount of watts (which translates into amp draw), most LED manufacturers over-inflate how much they put out, and hence draw.

 

I’m wondering if a high output alternator or second battery is the solution for winch draw?

 

I had a 270 amp DC alternator installed about a month and a half ago. I was going to try installing it myself, but my landlord frowns on car work in the parking lot. Toyota put that thing in such a retarded place. Anyway, I had a shop do it. So far it s gone without a hitch. No problems what so ever. I still have to get around to testing the output somehow. Can that be done with the thing installed, and if so how?

 

@1UPPER

What's that alternator you were running on your Tundra?

 

I see where what I said may be confusing. I should have said, "DC Power" alternator. It s the aftermarket brand I decided on. Or do you mean what was I running in it before the aftermarket one? It was stock before.

 

I ran accross this informative forum that talks about batteries, and such. It may address something like you describe.

 

I had a 240 amp Mechman alternator.

 

how did this turn out? I’m looking to do the same. Did you have to run new wires or will the existing work? What about belt size, does it run the same size as oem?

 

I had a DC alternator on my super duty and it worked great. Make sure you upgrade the alternator output lead so that the truck can get all of the added juice. The output at lower rpm’s is where it really shines.

 

It worked out fine. Big three is a must though. Like @crewmaxlmt stated. The output lead should be upgraded, (I used zero gauge), to take advantage of the increased amps.