2018 Crewmax Audio Upgrade

Wanted to start by saying THANK YOU to everyone on the Audio & Video forum. @TundraTex @Danimal86 @dspilot @Netmonkey the detailed threads by these guys is all you need to get better sound.

The how to has already been covered, I'm just going to present the way I did it (I'm about half way done as of now). And probably ask some questions as I finish up the install.

2018 Tundra Crewmax non-JBL
Equipment:
Wiring Harness
https://autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html
-this is a must and makes it super easy
LOC
https://ds18.com/products/5-channel-high-performance-high-to-low-conversion
- I went with this to save a little money and so far it works as it should
Amp
https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D9705
- good reviews, good price, power I wanted
Amp wiring kit and RCA's
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-a.../complete-4-gauge-amplifier-installation-kit/
- I used this kit 10+ years ago and like it
Door speakers
https://www.infinityspeakers.com/speakers/REFERENCE+6530CX.html
- this is personal preference, listened in person and liked them
Metra Speaker Harnesses
Killmat
Speaker mounts from Amazon
Speaker gasket foam
And foam rings

I have so far run the amp power and install both the LOC and Amp, I made my own amp rack out of 1/2" MDF for these under the passenger seat, the front bolted to same spot the factory amp rack bolted.





I used aluminum angle brackets that I curved for the feet to clear the vent.

The wiring diagrams in this forum made this easy peasy. Once again Thank You!

Having the extra power was very noticeable, although I took it easy on the stock speakers.

Next I did the rear doors. I did not like the plastic mounts and they were probably better suited for 5.25 speakers not the 6.5 that I picked. So I made my own out of the same MDF from the amp rack. Traced the stock mount and cut it out. * I will add that I had to trim some of the mounts post pictures, the edge closest to the hinge side off door interfered with the door panel.



I also used the Killmat on the outer panel and inner panel of the door (my first time using this stuff and I'm sure it could be done better) I used the tap and cover method, if it sounded hollow I covered it. Here's my rookie sound deadening job with the new speakers in the back.

This is the right side with the plastic mount I scrapped.

Left door with my mount.

You can see in this one where I trimmed the right side of the mount to fit door panel correctly.
To mount the thicker mounts I used #12 x 1" pan head Phillips sheet metal screws.

No pictures of tweeter mount in door panel but it popped right in and I used two zip ties to secure it.

That's where I'm at now. Waiting on the OEM tweeter sail panels I ordered to do the front. I'm glad I started in the back so that my sound deadening skills will be somewhat better on the front doors.

Will be ordering a box from James at Tech12Volts. Still undecided on subs? Any recommendations would be welcome.

Also, when putting the small panel on my back left door, the one up high above main panel, two of the little white clips fell into the door... ‍♂️ Anyone know where I can get some of these?

I'll update as I get more done.

Cheers!

 

Looks like you are off to a great start! Talk with james and see what he thinks will pair nicely with your speakers and your budget.
i think these are the correct ones for the doors. I keep meaning to order some of these.

$7 GOOACC for Toyota Trim Door Panel Clips Retainer for Tacoma Tundra Camry Corolla Avalon Sienna Replace OEM: 90467-10188，9mm Hole - 40pcs

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CTTH4/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

Got the front doors all finished up.

The two clips I lost on the back high door panel look like the one on the left. Luckily the new tweeter sail panels came with new clips so I salvaged the two from the old factory sails. Truck has all clips again!


This is the panel they went to:


Ordered a ported box through James, he recommended two Herts CS250 s4 for my power level. Hopefully it'll arrive in a couple of weeks so I can finish the install and then begin tweeking the amp settings.

I'm sure I'll have some questions about that, and you guys will likely have the answers.

Thanks again for the insight fellas, made this project fairly easy!

 

nice work man...

 

Got my box and subs from James. Waiting for the weekend to install when I have the time to apply sound deadening and hook it all up.

Should I drill pilot holes for subs? Use any kind of sealant around them, or does it matter since it's a ported box?
Thanks in advance!

 

A pilot hole isn't gonna hurt...go for it. Don't let the screws spin in the soft mdf wood. No need for any sealant.
Do you know how you are going to wire them up?
Edit: They are single voice coil subs, so it'll be easy.

 

I take it this is a must because it allows you to use the factory wiring harness. Correct?

 

Plan is to wire one terminal to the other and then to the amp. Need to find my voltmeter to check that it is presenting a 2 ohm load to the amp.
Thanks for the reply. I'm itching to hear it, I may just throw it in the back seat tonight just to get a taste!

 

Yes. You don't have to cut any wires if you order those. My colors were not the same as some diagrams posted but the position in the plug is.

 

Hey @Danimal86 , I wired them in parallel but am getting a reading of 3ohms? Any suggestions?
Also with setting up the amp, subs recommend 70 hz, I assume this means I set the LPF at that and then set the speaker channels on HPF also at 70 hz so I don't have a void in frequency? Thanks for your replies thus far!

 

Double check your wiring. To figure it out with a multimeter you take your number (3 in this case) and divide by .75 which is 4 (ohm). Its a dc to ac conversion.

Edited for added clarity.

 

I couldn't tell by the pictures, but i'm assuming they are 4ohm subs?
They should be wired like this to give you a 2ohm load:


Yes to the HPF/LPF, i think i have mine set at 80hz, but just play with it and find the sweet spot.

 

Turns out my cheapo multimeter was just wrong. I wired exactly as above and borrowed a nice meter and it's running at 2 ohms.

Finally got the back pulled apart and layed Killmat everywhere. (rough time of year to do so in Central Texas but I started early)

Sub box from James slid right in and I had no issues getting seats back in and bolted down.

Sounds amazing to me. Been a multi month project. Big thanks to this forum for doing most of the homework for me. Awesome work here fellas!

 

You picked the hottest week, I'm in Central Texas too. I'm waiting for the fall before I tackle this. How hard was it to get the Styrofoam out?

 

Very easy. Once the carpets pulled back they just pop right out, and went back in just as easy.

I may wait for cooler weather to do the front floorboards...

 

Looks good and big ups for doing it yourself. I recently upgraded my sound system. I had a shop install mine as I’m too old for the labor part but not to enjoy it.

 

Hello, I am in process of similar upgrade. Does anyone know the p/n for those two clips above? I lost the two wing looking ones. And the original ones are not holding the door panel in place.

 

I ordered both on Amazon...

$7 10 Pcs Super Interior Door Trim Panels Clips Retainers Fits for Toyota Prius Tundra Camry Corolla Sienna Sequoia Tacoma Replacement for The Part# 90467-10188

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y66SXHT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$9 Rexka 30pcs Door Garnish Moulding Retainer Clip Compatible with Toyota Lexus 67771-58010 Tundra Tacoma Sequoia RAV4 Land Cruiser Highlander C-HR Yaris Scion xD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CJLB1BP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

curious as to where you found a sub box from. and what made you go with the hertz subs?

 

Got the box from James at Tech12volt, he also recommended the subs based on my power level. I love it, it pounds!