Big SAG in Rear After hooking Travel Trailer

No one's saying the Platinum isn't a different trim level...

As to the 1794:

 

Whatever man. You just don't get it. I give up. Again, your screenshots do not truly represent what is manufactured in TX. A 1794 is not a "package" for a Platinum.

 

Back to the original question. OP I have the same issue w my TT. Today I am installing timbren bump stops. I’ve read great things. Check em out.

 

Now here is a question for anyone to answer... I have a 2020 Limited Crewmax 4x4. I have towed a 5000k with it and it was awesome no squat. In future when I do a lift I was thinking fox shocks with dsc adjusters or regular(still looking into those) and fox 2.0 in rear with 1.5” shackle to keep rake. Now with WDH I should still ride level maybe a little sag correct? Anyone have a similar setup? I will be getting a 26’ travel trailer weighing about 6000-6500lbs UVW. So I want to accommodate that larger size.

 

You'll probably lose at least half your rake when you do your suspension. A +1.5" shackle usually gives about .75-1" of lift. I'm a tad nose high now when I have the bed packed and my boat hooked up and the tongue weight on the boat trailer is a lot less than what you'll have with a 26' travel trailer. You'll probably want to add airbags to be able level it out.

 

Actually, my post above oversimplified the use of a WDH (weight distributing hitch).

Use of a WDH is less about the suspension height, than it is about axle loading. A WDH is used to divide up the cargo weight, primarily trailer tongue weight, between the front and rear axles. If a tow vehicle sags after a trailer is hitched, that says the tongue weight is being applied primarily to the rear axle. If trailer tongue weight is disproportionately applied to the rear axle (Example: No WDH), you are actually unloading the front axle, which may adversely affect handling, steering, and braking.

Rake, or not, when using a WDH, the objective should be for the front and rear suspensions to settle about the same amount indicating more or less equal loading of both axles. Rake is the manufacturers way of providing for future loading of some cargo in the bed. My experience is that a WDH will have a big effect on rear suspension sag, and will reduce the raising of the front of the tow vehicle. This assumes that the lift you installed had no effect on stock suspension spring rates. If that assumption is not true, then I got nothing.

Exact limits for axle loads are given in the owner's manual.

 

Thanks man, that response brought a tear to my eye.. people do care. Lol. Seriously though, I appreciate the info.

 

I had a 28 ft travel trailer with a gross weight of 7600 lbs. Load with water and propane, my hitch weight was 1250 lbs.
Best to get a hitch scale and check.
Way to heavy for a tundra.

 

+ 1.5" Shackles, perfection achieved.

 

Rather than burden everyone with a lot of detail about meeting all the towing weight limits of your Tundra, there are some good tips for towing safely in the Owner Manual (Section 4-1, Before Driving in 2017) and in the "stickies" over on Towing and Hauling forum. Start with this one by @ColoradoTJ:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/tow-ratings-guide-how-to-be-safe.39211/

BTW, I misspoke slightly about front and rear suspensions settling the same. The owner manual says that when using a WDH, you should set it up so that the front axle load (suspension height) does not change after you hitch the trailer. OM says if a scale is not available to confirm the front axle load is the same, you should measure to the top of the front wheel opening before hitching, and adjust WDH to keep that height the same after hitching.

 

How much do shackles run?

 

They cost anywhere from $50 - $385. Depends on the brand, and if you buy hardware and bushings. I chose to go with Pro Form Fab +1.5 for $50, but had to reuse my factory hardware. Not a big deal, just have to pound out the pressed in bolts. If you are not mechanically inclined then I would suggest Coach Builder or ToyTec, seeing is how they come with the hardware. But you pay for it.

Pro Form Fabrication $50


ToyTec $200


Coach Builder $350 and up

 

Badcow......
Thank you for the intel on the shackles. I am assuming that other than helping out with squat reduction for our Pros when towing.... thes shackle set up does not do anything else for normal non towing driving? No changes in ride quality?

I have never had shackles on previous vehicles and thus the question. I have used airbags on a previous Silverado 1500 and the WDH which did seem to help reduce the light front end when towing.

Thanks again for taking the time to put all that intel up on the shackles!!

JT

 

My truck drives and rides as smooth now as it did with the factory shackles. No vibes, no harsh ride, nothing. I can't tell any difference in ride quality at all. I'm very pleased to now have some RAKE to the truck, rather than it sitting so flat and level.

BEFORE:


AFTER:

 

Yes....I agree it actually looks better with that set up.

You sold me.

Thanks for the pics and intel!

 

You would think that Toyota would use longer shackles on the PRO's since the front is lifted. Even without anything in the bed or towing, the truck just looked way too flat & level. Funny thing is, now the truck itself is LEVEL. I placed a Spirit Level on the roof, and the running boards, parked inside my garage, and it sits Dead-Nut Level. So, before the +1.5 shackles it must have actually been higher in the front. As soon as I bought that truck I knew something had to be done. I thought about Airbags, Sumo Springs, RoadMasters, Helper Springs, and kept going back to Shackles. I feel like it was the smart choice for my application.

Let me know which brand of shackles you go with. If you decide on the Pro Form Fabs, hit me up in PM. There is a tiny glitch that you may or may not encounter. I did, but it was an easy fix.

 

is there a difference in quality? I know that the equipment achieves same end goal, but I also know that not all things are built equal. I am intuitive and could figure it out, but wasn't sure if quality was better with certain brand.

 

So, been watching this thread and thought about adding some information.
The significant difference between all of these shackles from the OME ones, is that these are All one piece and the factory ones are not.
All of these will probably outlast the life of your truck so the top of the line here may not be of consequence to you. When I installed my shackles (Coachbuilder), in 2015, he was the only one making them. He makes them from billet aluminum and the fit and finish is perfect. Plus, he is a very high quality guy and will help with any questions that you have.

The one piece fabrication of these, reduces side to side movement a bit, helping the rear to feel more “planted”, if that makes sense.
Another thing to do is to get the OME bushings replaced at the same time with poly bushings. The factory bushings are locked to the shackle and the mount so as your suspension cycles up and down it causes the bushings to “wind up” and then on the rebound it has this stored energy. This can increase bed bounce, a bit.

 

I would probably say the CoachBuilders are of higher quality being made from billet aluminum. The ToyTecs are steel, and they are adjustable. The Pro Form Fabs are bare bones steel shackles, no included hardware. All of these have cross-bar supports to avoid side to side movement. All of these achieve the same goal. I went with the least expensive, Pro Form Fab, and I am completely satisfied.

 

Without getting into a lot of engineering detail, I like your choice. Strength of steel, minimum expense (bare bones).

IMO, aluminum has advantages in many applications, but automotive suspensions is not one of them. Aluminum has low fatigue strength...bend aluminum 180 twice, it's done. That's why the FAA requires frequent air-worthiness inspections on aircraft. Aluminum can be designed to work in an application, but then the question becomes "Can I get enough aluminum to fit in the available space to do the job as well as steel"?

 

Sumo Springs helped my Pro.

 

Thank you

 

This is a very important point. Adjusting the WDH is all about measuring the height of the FRONT suspension before and after it is loaded. I seem to run into a lot of comments about people measuring the rear with their WDH adjustments.

 

I used Sumo Springs on my 16 Tacoma TRD OR for towing, and they worked great. But this Tundra PRO was seriously too level. It needed much more than what the Sumo's could provide. I wanted that girls ASS up in the air just a little bit. So shackles were the right ticket for me.