Worth paying dealership to fully replace transmission fluid?

I got an 06 DC 4.7L that I bought with 86k miles and is sitting at 116k now. Transmission shifts fine but I kind of hate the idea of it being non-serviceable. Local dealership will fully drain and fill for $220, I'm wondering if I should get some new fluid in there and then proceed to do partial drain and fill at home when I do my oil changes. Or just start doing partials now with next oil change and see how the old fluid looks...or leave that bitch sealed and pretend it'll last forever. What kind of service do yall do for your transmission?

 

I’ve never thought the drop 3 quarts add 3 quarts method was logical. Would you do the same with your oil?

Dealer has the machine to do a full fluid swap. Have them do it. If they don’t list 12 quarts (or whatever the 06 calls for) on the invoice, they didn’t do it.

 

Fresh fluid is never a bad idea. If its shifting fine then you are good. Personally, I like to know what I’m starting with and for $220 having the stealership do it is not bad considering the BS involved on the ‘sealed’ transmission service. I’d guess 12 quarts would cost $60-80 easily. Your call.

 

I also have a 06 and have been pondering what to do. Mine has 161k and has never been serviced. I have heard different advice. Some say leave it and it will last longer than if you put new fluid in risk failure because of the newer less dense fluid eroding inside components.

 

Take it to the local independent Toyota shop and see what they charge. I got mine done for $100 a year ago.

 

12 quarts?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RumPXivBlk8&t=630s

This method works with the sealed transmission also.

 

That’s how I did mine on the 4runner. Not sure if he explains why he’s on drive on jacks in the front? You’d want it level to pull all the old fluid out and to get your fill level correct

 

I think it's worth doing but I'm surprised they say 12 quarts. Most of the dealers around here will not do a transmission flush anymore. I would do the drain and fill at home personally. Someone posted the process recently and it really isn't as difficult on the 05-06 as I thought.

 

I have 417K miles and have never serviced the transmission. Still running well.

 

I’ve done it. Piece of mind. Didn’t noticed a difference after and only did it becuz it was recommended by mileage. TBH I’ll do it again in 100k

 

Not sure, I just looked at my receipt and they only charged me for 3.5 quarts. I literally sat there and BS'd with the mechanic while he was doing it and watched it go from dirty to clean fluid pumping out.

 

That's really bad advice. Anyone telling you that doesn't fully understand how a transmission works.

 

Here's the recent thread on fluid change and level check on an '05 - '06 non-dipstick model transmission:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-transmission-drain-fill.68123/#post-1774161

Toward the bottom, I give instructions and photos on how to flush the fluid via the cooler line -- it's easier than changing the engine oil. Assuming your level is correct now and you measure what you take out... then simply refill with the same amount, and you don't have to worry about the procedure for checking the level.

 

tundraheadquarters.com

 

Hey guys. Anyone here ever use Amsoil? Is it better than Mobil 1? Now that I’ve removed the oil plug how do I remove the oil plug gasket washer thingy?

 

NOTE: Draining doesn’t get rid of all the fluid in the transmission – it’s true. Something like 1/5th of the old fluid remains in your transmission. As bad as that is (not that bad), it’s much better than disturbing all the “gunk” that’s harmlessly settled away inside your transmission.

First off, this is not even close to being correct. A drain/fill removes less than 1/3 of the fluid in the transmission, not 4/5 of it.

Secondly, no one in this thread is suggesting a power flush using a machine.

Here's a thread in which I explain the differences in a drain/fill, flush, and power flush.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/confused-about-drain-and-fill-vs-flush.57136/#post-1493984

Copied from that thread:

This comes up a lot, and there seems to be confusion surrounding the word "flush". Let's see if we can add some clarity.

For starters, some definitions:

1) Drain & fill: as simple as it gets. Remove the plug, drain the contents of the transmission pan, re-install plug, and refill with the same amount of fluid that was drained. This replaces about 1/3 of the total capacity of fluid in the transmission.

2) Flush: remove the output/return line from the transmission cooler, run a piece of vinyl tubing from the cooler output to a one gallon container with quart markings, start the engine and run it until 2 quarts of fluid is pumped out (about 10 -15 seconds), turn off engine. Add 2 quarts of ATF through the dipstick tube, and repeat until the fluid coming out of the cooler looks as clean as the new fluid going in. This is generally done following a drain & fill.

3) Power Flush: this is a service sold at some repair facilities and dealerships. It requires special equipment that connects to the tansmission cooler lines, then draws old fluid out of the transmission and pumps new fluid in.

The Power Flush (#3) is the service that's frequently warned against that can apparently have some ill affects -- although I have no first hand experience with the process or any resulting problems.

The Flush (#2) is perfectly safe and will give you the best results for replacing the fluid in your transmission. It operates the transmission exactly as it operates whenever the engine is running. The only difference is that instead of recirculating old fluid, you're removing it, and replacing it with new. It will take a lot of fluid -- 20+ quarts -- to do properly. But you'll know you're starting with a transmission full of clean, new fluid. Follow up with your periodic drain & fill (#1) and your transmission will last a long, long time.

This process has been done for decades with RWD Volvo cars which use a similar Aisin Warner transmission (in fact the later model 960s and V90s used this exact A340 transmission). Automatic transmission failures are virtually unheard of in those vehicles even with many hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

The point is to avoid power flushing the transmission.

You and I know this, but others reading this thread for the first time may not.

 

Excellent post. Should be a Sticky if not already.

In essence, the Flush#2 is the best DIY technique. Once this is accomplished, then Drain and Fills are proper Maintenance.

 

I wouldn't do it if the ATF is burnt or has shavings in it.

If it's just the regular old used ATF pinkish color, you're probably fine.

There's a big difference between a fluid change and a flush also. A change doesn't really get all the ATF out, only about half maybe. A flush will force all new fluid in and displace gunk in your trans and can cause issues with old clutch packs.

 

Good point!

 

@tvpierce Nice write up in the 1st thread you linked. I'll use that method. Thanks.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-transmission-drain-fill.68123/#post-1774161

 

Is the lower line the return?

 

man I did that method on my 06 "sealed transmission" and holy crap it was shooting out of the tube, made a god damn mess. I was not prepared for that. My thought of measuring the volume out/in was out the door. And this turned my drain/fill into a full day of fuckery. After a call with my friend Victor at Findlay Toyota in Vegas, he walked me through the OBDII jumper wire test to display the trans fluid temp volume level on the dash. I swear, Toyota is pretty clever with back up methods if you don't have a techstream. Still a PITA for a shadetree mechanic. All said and done, it was over $150 in Amsoil ATL (their WS compliant ATF) and about $20 or so for a new filter and pan gasket. From my research back then, the WS quarts weren't much cheaper. I'd gladly pay $220 for a Toyota dealer to do this for me.

Definitely confirm this is a full drain and not a pan only drain.

 

A friend and long time mechanic (he was one of the trainers for GM many years ago) told me he loved getting cars in with transmission problems where someone convinced the owner to power flush the transmission. They simply dropped the old transmission and put in a rebuilt unit. Then, they sent the old one out to be stripped down, vatted, and rebuilt. He said there was so much crud loose, and so much that had been loosened to the point of almost floating around that they couldn't warranty any repairs. He said fluid and filter changes are essential, but a power flush is just a way for mechanics to make their next boat payment. They either make it on the flush, on the repairs, or both.

 

I changed my strategy slightly and went with the cooler input because I wanted a male fitting for my vinyl tubing and there was easier access to the lower lines. PHM has them labled correctly in the following post.

So the revised instruction should say:

2) Flush: remove the input line to the transmission cooler at the lower position.

 

Did you use a piece of tubing and route it into a suitable container? Or did you just take the line off and let it hang over a drain pan?

 

container, but I didn't hold the tube.

 

Don't you love it when simple jobs take on a life of their own

I have a cheap Bluetooth obd2 reader and the torque app, best $20 I've ever spent.