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2006 Transmission Drain/Fill

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by 3.4Tundra, May 29, 2020.

  1. May 29, 2020 at 2:21 PM
    #1
    3.4Tundra

    3.4Tundra [OP] New Member

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    Hey all,

    Figured I'd make a post about this drain and fill, not that there aren't many other posts already but maybe to encourage those that are on the fence about doing it themselves.

    I have the 4.7 with the "Non-Dipstick" A750 Transmission

    I bought this truck last summer with 104k on it and have done most every other maintenance job including front end suspension refreshing, except for the Trans and the Coolant. I'm at 112k miles today.

    Before starting: I left truck to sit overnight in my level garage. I went with WS Toyota fluid @about $10 a quart from the dealer including a crush washer for the drain bolt. I also bought a pitcher on Amazon to do the measuring.

    I loosened the FILL bolt first to ensure I could get fluid back in, then I opened the drain bolt and was able to get 3qts out exactly.

    It had slight reddish color to it and no odd smells but I have no idea if this was ever done by the last owner or not.

    I have a small bottle pump I got at Harbor Freight to use with the quart bottles and eventually got just over 3 quarts back in.

    I then performed the level check by starting the truck and letting it idle for 15 minutes before finally deciding to drive it around the block. The fluid temp needs to be between 115-130. I finally got it up to 120 and with engine idling, cracked the overflow screw, and... Nothing.

    I added 1 full extra quart, went for a drive, returned and rechecked temperature and was still in low 120's. With engine idling, I removed screw and now had spillage. Got a fast trickle and replugged it.

    The last photo is what came out the overflow, the color looks good but I'm not an expert by any means. Thinking I may do this 2 more times in the next 6 months to get a better exchange.

    In the end I added close to 3/4 quart more than I removed. I don't know why it was low but I feel better knowing it's at the right level now. Also, using the infrared gun on the bottom of the pan seemed to work well for others so I think as long as you're within the 115-130 range, it doesn't matter. There's wiggle room.

    IMG_20200529_092019.jpg
    IMG_20200529_095424.jpg
    IMG_20200529_112624.jpg
    IMG_20200529_113459.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2020
  2. May 29, 2020 at 2:29 PM
    #2
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    SoCal the land of no rust and factory paint still on the frame...must be nice. Could some of your fluid difference be an ounce or two still in the bottle plus an ounce or two still in the hose, times three quarts, that could be 6 ounces or more?
     
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  3. May 29, 2020 at 2:35 PM
    #3
    omgboost

    omgboost The Accountant

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    Isn't the fluid suppose to stop dripping out of the overflow plug and then it's at the correct level?
     
  4. May 29, 2020 at 2:37 PM
    #4
    3.4Tundra

    3.4Tundra [OP] New Member

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    Well, I was able to get every drop from the first two quarts by adding their residuals to the third bottle. When I got to the bottom of the third bottle I marked where I was there and then pumped that amount from a new 4th bottle. It was as close as I could get it I believe.

    There are no signs of leaks but I do recall losing a little bit of fluid when I removed the driveshaft to do my spider bearings and carrier bearing... It really was a tiny bit though.
     
  5. May 29, 2020 at 2:41 PM
    #5
    3.4Tundra

    3.4Tundra [OP] New Member

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    I followed a YouTube video of the job being done on a Tacoma. The mechanic said there are varying thoughts on it. I did it the way she did in her video, she does mention that some let it drain out from the overflow and then add a tiny back in. Her method made sense. She also used the scan tool to measure temp along with an IR Temp gun and the values were within a couple degrees of each other.
     
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  6. May 29, 2020 at 2:45 PM
    #6
    3.4Tundra

    3.4Tundra [OP] New Member

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    There's also this from the manual regarding a trickle: (item 6)

    Screenshot_20200529-085839.jpg
     
  7. May 29, 2020 at 11:05 PM
    #7
    Tech26

    Tech26 New Member

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    Thanks for sharing this! I think you did it just about the best way possible without having a Toyota scan tool. Just to be clear, you had the engine running when checking the fluid level, right?
     
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  8. May 30, 2020 at 5:49 AM
    #8
    3.4Tundra

    3.4Tundra [OP] New Member

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    Yes, engine idling. Burned underside of my forearm on the exhaust too!
     
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  9. May 30, 2020 at 5:54 AM
    #9
    3.4Tundra

    3.4Tundra [OP] New Member

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    I just drove about 35 miles into work today and noticed that some noises I'd been chasing down seem to have disappeared.

    The truck had many different odd noises when I bought it which led me to do all of the front end work. I also did the diff fluid which helped but couldn't figure out this issue I was having where it sounded like worn suspension parts (clunk) during accelerating/braking hard, or doing both over bumps. I even went so far as too look at the trans mount which looked fine. (I had heard that sometimes the bolts back out).

    The noise was gone this morning, will have to get some more miles on it to be sure but I'm really stoked!
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
  10. May 30, 2020 at 6:36 AM
    #10
    chester

    chester best member

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    I did a transmission drain a few weeks ago while doing my timing belt. I also pulled the pan and put in a new filter. So with the pan and radiator removed, I ended up replacing a lot of the fluid. Before I did this, I had a shudder at a shift point around 30-35 mph. It only happened at light/partial throttle. Anyway, that completely went away with the new fluid. The truck is also quieter too, similar to what you're experiencing.

    I didn't measure volumes, so I don't know if I was low before. Maybe that was the issue. Either way, new fluid at the correct level has really helped.
     
  11. May 30, 2020 at 7:31 AM
    #11
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Nice write up for the non-dipstick A750 Transmissions! Sounds like the fresh fluid is making a difference. Maybe grease your rear zerks on the drive shaft if you have those on your model?
     
  12. May 30, 2020 at 8:16 AM
    #12
    3.4Tundra

    3.4Tundra [OP] New Member

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    I'm zerkless! I replaced my spider bearings with non greasable as we're on there. Mainly because on my old 02, I used the zerk versions but couldn't get a grease gun in there once assembled.

    My New sway bar end links now have zerks(Moog) though.

    I'm going to do the drain and fill again a couple more times. In the next few thousand miles. If anyone needs a photo of something, let me know and I'll get one during the next drain and fill.
     
  13. May 31, 2020 at 3:50 AM
    #13
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    At this point, now that you know you have the level correct, wouldn’t it make more sense to disconnect the line at the cooler and replace the fluid that way?
     
  14. May 31, 2020 at 7:47 AM
    #14
    3.4Tundra

    3.4Tundra [OP] New Member

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    Hmm, I don't know. Hadn't thought of doing that. I do understand how to do it this way now but the downside is it's only a partial drain each time and then I'm mixing my new fluid with the old...

    Are there any how-to's with the other method?
     
  15. Jun 2, 2020 at 2:45 AM
    #15
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    It's best to do it along with a drain and fill, then you're starting with a pan full of fresh fluid.

    You'll need a couple feet of 5/16" ID vinyl tubing from any hardware store. Get a gallon milk jug and add one quart of water to it, then mark the level. Add a second quart of water and mark that level. Do the same for a 3rd and 4th quart. Dump the water out. That's your waste oil container.


    Disconnect the input line of the transmission cooler. Several ounces of fluid will come out, so be prepared with a catch pan. Dump the contents of the pan in the milk jug you marked earlier. Connect the vinyl tubing to the transmission cooler line as shown in the pics. You might need to expand the end of the tubing with a pair of needle nose pliers so it will fit over the transmission line. The fluid won't be under any significant pressure, so a hose clamp isn't necessary. Put the other end of the tubing in the milk jug. Start the engine and let it run to pump the fluid out. When the level gets to about one quart (should take about 10 seconds), kill the engine. Add a quart of ATF to the transmission. Repeat this "one quart out, one quart in" proceedure until the fluid coming out looks like the fluid going in. It should take about 3 gallons.

    I'd recommend getting a funnel to assist in filling the fluid. You'll be pumping all day with the pump you have.
    I've had one of these from Advance Auto and it works really well.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2020
  16. Jun 2, 2020 at 5:19 AM
    #16
    Pucks18

    Pucks18 Fleabit peanut monkey

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    Your the type of person that jesus will reccomend to the spirit in the sky
     
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  17. Jun 3, 2020 at 3:44 AM
    #17
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    :rofl:

    Unlikely!:)
     
  18. Nov 10, 2023 at 7:24 AM
    #18
    Xcruiserguy

    Xcruiserguy New Member

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    I’m waking up this thread to ask a question: since it is common practice to use the line to the oil cooler line for draining fluid, is there some reason to NOT use the outgoing line to feed fluid back into the transmission?

    Since it is all under low pressure, it seems to me that you could have a container of fluid gravity feeding into the return line, while the other line dumps the old fluid being pumped by the transmission. Obviously you’d have to monitor the amount going in and out, to be sure they are flowing at about the same rate, but in my mind I’m imagining the transmission fluid pump doing all the work without as much time spent under the truck, turning the engine on and off between sessions of pumping/draining a few quarts at a time.
    Has anyone done it this way?
     
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  19. Nov 11, 2023 at 5:54 AM
    #19
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    I haven't done it that way, but have contemplated it before. I think you're dead nuts on with your thought process. It seems like it would be the easiest way to do it for folks with a sealed transmission (no dipstick) like on '05 & '06 trucks. With earlier years, the dipstick tube is just so convenient that it makes sense to go that way.
    I'm pretty sure the funnel I showed above would adapt perfectly to the hard return line (the one with the soft line still connected in the pic).
    If you do it, take a few pics and post back with how it goes. This has the potential to be the new preferred method for transmission fluid exchange.:thumbsup:
     
  20. Nov 11, 2023 at 10:58 AM
    #20
    Xcruiserguy

    Xcruiserguy New Member

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    Well, I tried my experiment and can report that the return line, back to the transmission from the cooler, is not a viable route to replace fluid, at least not with the engine stopped. I used a pressurized fluid transfer tank pumped up to 20 psi and fluid would not flow. It seems that the return line somehow relies on the pump being operational to allow flow; possibly the transmission pump works to both push fluid to the cooler and pull it back from the cooler. I was not bold enough to fire up the engine to find out.
    So, I did the fluid swap the old way, 3 litres at a time (3 out, 3 in). I bought three 5-litre jugs of fluid, and since this process is not a clean 1:1 ratio of old out/new in, allowing mixing of old fluid with new fluid inside the transmission, I exchanged a total of 14 litres, instead of swapping just the 11 litres that the transmission nominally holds. The last pump-out was bright red, compared to the dark red at the beginning of the process.
    It’s not too arduous a process, so I expect I’ll do it pretty regularly, maybe once a year. My old Landcruisers got a yearly drain/fill and the old-school 4-speed transmissions noticeably perked up right after a fresh batch of fluid.
     
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  21. Nov 11, 2023 at 4:00 PM
    #21
    Xcruiserguy

    Xcruiserguy New Member

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    Just to be clear, the net amount in the transmission is 11-ish litres. I began the process by dumping the contents of the pan, which came to 2-1/2 litres. So 14-2.5=11.5. Once I heated the transmission oil up to 50 degrees C, I pulled the check port cap and got just drops out, so added about 250 ml, and got the ‘dribble’. It shifts quite nicely so far.
     
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  22. Nov 11, 2023 at 5:33 PM
    #22
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

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    Back in the day my old Torqueflite has a drain plug on the TC so you could get most of the ATF out
     
  23. Nov 13, 2023 at 4:54 AM
    #23
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    Thanks for posting your findings. Interesting outcome.

    As to fluid change frequency, if you're talking about a full 14 liter flush, I think once a year is way overkill. In the older transmissions (2000 - 2004) that use Dexron III, the spec from Toyota was to do a spill and fill of the pan (which netted 3.5 - 4 quarts -- or about 1/3 - 1/4 of the capacity of the whole system) every 30K miles. I would think a full flush would be good for at least 60K miles. But you're certainly not hurting anything by doing in more frequently.
     

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