Blackstone Labs.. Their thoughts on the best oil for 5.7?

Teammates,
I wonder if Blackstone labs has a data base that could shed light on the best performing oil for the 5.7L V8? I know many of us on this forum send those samples in for analysis regularly. I would think they would have valuable data on the best performing oil. Im not an oil nerd by any means FYI.. I would imagine they would have a major influence in the choices we make for our Tundras if they voiced an opinion. Thoughts?

 

Have you called Blackstone? They would have that data. As you mentioned several members here use Blackstone but not enough to get a good statistical answer here.

 

This one is the best one I've seen for the Toyota 5.7 https://www.tundras.com/threads/oil-filter-change-23k-miles-one-year-updated.37158/

 

It would be worth asking. They probably have to know the oil they are testing. For example, Molybdenum is higher in Toyota oil. Measured in PPM(parts per million) almost are major oils are between <1 - 90 with most in the <20 category. One of the highest, Amsoil at 60ppm. Toyota Synthetic molybdenum is 787ppm. So knowing the oil and plotting wear indicator statistics for the different oils, they may have data.

Having said that, they may not share. Let just say they tell you Mobil 1 shows the least wear. You switch from Toyota oil to Mobil 1 and blow up and engine (all hypothetical). Not sure if you could blame them.

But imagine the values if they could show that oil A statistically shows less wear based on wear indicators.

 

If you establish rapport with one of their techs, they might have a professional opinion based on the testing they've done. On a strictly informal and verbal basis, they might share that opinion. But if they want to keep their job, they will not.

It's highly unlikely you will get anything in writing. Simply telling you a recommendation is surely against Blackstone's company policy, because it will expose them to liabilities, from both competing oil companies and from vehicle owners. If an owner later has an engine problem, and wants to claim Blackstone's oil recommendation caused the problem, there will be no written record of any such recommendation, and they will likely disavow they ever made any specific recommendation.

 

All very good points thanks for the input. I would imagine I am not the first to think of this considering so many car / truck enthusiasts out there. I will call tomorrow and see if they have an opinion but certainly don't expect them to give me one..

 

The first two samples are with Mobil 1 and the two newest are with Valvoline. I'll submit a sample with the Castrol I put in the engine during my previous oil change next week; it's been about 7,000 miles since my last oil change at this point.

 

Lol there is no "best" oil for our Tundras. Consider the guy in Phoenix, consider the guy on the North Slope in Alaska, consider the guy who drives 40K a year on interstate, consider the guy who drives all city miles, consider the guy who tows 8K daily, consider...

I hope you understand there is no best oil for every application.

With that said, Blackstone did publish an article that said there is no best brand, they all did a good job. Maybe it was an interview but I know it exists.

 

"Because we’re an independent laboratory, we don’t recommend any specific oil brands. We always recommend using an oil grade recommended for your engine by the manufacturer and a brand that fits your budget. But beyond that, we find that brand makes very little difference. If there were an oil that consistently out-performed the rest of them, we’d have no reason to keep that information secret, but we just haven’t found that oil yet."

 

Thanks for the data @computeruser6.

I prefer and have used both Mobil1 and Valvoline motor oils in different applications. Currently, I use Mobil1 Extended Performance in the Tundra, and plan to change from 0W20 to 5W30 viscosity at the next change. In Texas heat, a little extra viscosity is not going to hurt anything imo. In your tests, the Mobil1 does seem to have the edge over the Valvoline in regard to remaining molyddenum ppm.

 

Thanks!

 

What's the cost to have a sample analyzed. Had a sample bottle but gave to a friend during his last oil change on a Porsche Boxster and he hasn't ordered another bottle yet to replace. Have two vehicles I would like to get started checking oil. Tundra not to worried but a 2000 Porsche that has a engine/oiling historic problem that I would like to catch before catastrophic failure

 

$30 and TBN is extra $10

 

I'm sending Blackstone the Castrol "Edge" 0-W20 oil sample today.

 

What he said, too many variables.

 

Lol Cult of Amsoil!
Again, I nor anyone else, as long as OEM specs are followed, has ever seen an engine oil fail due to brand of oil, as long as the oil is certified.

 

Why?

 

Yes you should always follow OEM spec and make sure any oils you use has the certification emblem and rating that is required for your application.
Yes the cheapest stuff on the shelf at walmart is certified and will work in your application , but you can do much better and your engine will love you for it.
Why Amsoil (im my opinioon)
Not all oils are created equal, oils are made of base stocks and additive packages. Different brands use different base stocks and different additives , some far superior than others.
According to my Amsoil sales rep , When comparing synthetics, you can no longer trust the terms "full synthetic or 100% synthetic, some now refine petrolium group 1-3 base stocksinto synthetics and get away with labeling them as full symthetic ?, I believe this goes back to a lawsuit that Mobil 1 vs Castrol regarding base stock and specific wording or something .
A true 100% synthetic will be PAO Synthetic group 4 (Polyalphaolefin). Any oil company using PAO will be proud to mention that they do, .

Some poeple only use the brand that the automaker recommends , because they think it was specifically made for their vehicle . Automakers save money everywhere they can to make as much profit on the vehicle when it sells, every penny counts. It is a contract between oil companies and car makers, its a business decision , basically "If you use our oil in every car you build, every oil change you perform, we will give it to you at $... per qt".
Their goal is to make your car last 36k miles thats it. If the automakers were to warranty your engine to 100k or more, believe me theyd be using and recommending different higher quality oils.
Same with Mobil 1 , very good oil and comes as factory fill in many higher end vehicles and super cars, again a business decision (contract with oil company and automaker).

I have been using synthetic since the early 1980's starting with Baker Precision, Redline , Mobil 1 and finally Amsoil in everything ive owned.
I spend hours talking to my Amsoil rep about various tests and comparissions new products , news etc, spent hours reading watching and talking to people.
These are obviously my opinions , Dont take my word for it , do your own research , read , watch videos, check out the test charts.
Just dont go to your Walmart or local Quickie Lube for oil advise.

 

All that really matters is you change it at the right interval and use the right weight, what brand really does not matter. Supertech, Amazon Basic, Kirkland, Amsoil, Mobil 1, etc... don’t make a lick of difference.

 

Yes the correct weight is important.
but change interval depends upon the oil being used. Your supertech or Amazon oil might be good for 3000 - 5000 miles, but Amsoil and possibly others last 15000-25000 miles (with the correct hi milage filter , or just changing filter and topping off oil) .
Some oils break down , some dont.

I have never done this test , but would be curious to compare Amsoil used for 25000 miles vs to a basic motor oil brand new in the bottle

Brand DOES make a difference

 

Oh look, more Amsoil copypasta

 

I’ve only done 3 Tundra samples with blackstone, two with M1, one with Pennzoil. All came back great. 7-9k intervals.

 

Love my Amsoil!
my older 2001 Tundra has 274,000 on it and still running strong, clean and never had any issues. Amsoil in engine, trans, and rear end
runs like it did when new, can still hook up a trailer and confidently tow 6000 lbs trailer almost anywhere

 

The problem is Amsoil no longer shares how much PAO they use in their SDS and they only list the anti-oxidant
Benzenamine, N-Phenyl-, reaction products with 2,4,4-Trimethylpentene. More troubling is that they used to list PAO on their SDS and they stopped a few years ago. Why? So you have to take their word for it that they use PAO and even if they do how much? They are one of the only oil companies that does not list PAO % on their SDS. Mobil happily reports how much PAO (1-DECENE, HOMOPOLYMER HYDROGENATED) is in their products. If you look at the % PAO in 0W-20 Mobil 1 EP it's 60-70% and it's a much better price point. I'm not saying Amsoil isn't good - we just have no idea what's really in it and as one of the only companies to "hide" this information I again ask why?

 

Hyundai has 100k warranty. They recommend Quaker State oil. I rarely see the brand get thrown out there.

 

Plenty of people who use Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline, and many others can say the exact same thing. The dealership I bought my truck from does my oil changes. I don’t know or care what they put in it. I just drive the shit out of it. If anything happens, I have a lifetime power train warranty.

 

I've seen hundreds if not thousands of UOAs and the only thing that becomes clear is any mainstream oil that meets your vehicle's requirements from the manufacturer will do just fine. I have NEVER seen two oils from a mainstream brand that both meet the specs for a well-running engine over the same OCI give significantly different results....NEVER.

 

Because it doesn't really matter....