1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Paging @FirstGenVol

There is no chance I'm going to clay bar my DC (with cap!), I just don't have that kind of time after my HU and heated leather seat install. I just don't have the patience right now but want to do something. I actually had a guy come out to give me a quote on "clay baring" my truck and he uses something like this (he has great reviews from customers around here). I was going to have him do it...but since he won't return my calls, I'm thinking about doing it myself, since I think I could manage this method from a time perspective. Do you have any experience/opinion on these versus a clay bar?

$10 JIANFA Clay Bar Pad 6" Fine Grade Clay Pad for Polisher Clay Disc Clay Bar Wipe Foam Pad DA Polisher Pad for Car Detailing, Novel Detailing Tool…

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9CW754/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A39W6H6E2TW06C&psc=1

https://www.chemicalguys.com/clay-e...49dfS4QVj-QAd5ckTrg6O6Qx74yFmf9MaAoeEEALw_wcB

 

I'm not familiar with those specific products but I know companies have come out with alternatives to the traditional bar of clay, which are very popular and supposed to be a lot faster. I would ask for recommendations in the Ask The Detailer thread.

I think you could wash, claybar and wax the truck quicker than you think.

I saw someone link this mitt in that thread. I'm sure the options you have listed would work well too.

 

Just picked this up from the dealer. Talk about sticker shock. I never asked the price when I ordered. They charged me twice as much as the link I shared yesterday. If you can wait, and combine with some other parts, you may want to order them online.

 

Just had the weirdest thing happen while installing the new LBJ bolts at 59 ft lbs. I go to torque them down and I never get a click from the wrench. It doesn't feel right so I grab my other, bigger torque wrench. Click. Ok. Move to the next bolt. Keep turning, turning, SNAP. That's right. I broker another LBJ bolt.

I knew it felt like way more than 59 lbs. No clue why either torque wrench stopped me. One just arrived last week and the other I got at Christmas.

Now I get to deal with another broken bolt. I should have stopped when I knew it didn't feel right. FML.

 

I know on my torque wrench at lower values it's not an audible click but more a change in handle position. It's easy to miss.

 

I’d just go by feel. I have a 1/2” Husky Torque Wrench and it never ‘clicked’ when I ‘felt’ it should. I know when something is about to break, so I put it away and haven’t used it since new.

Only busted one bolt in almost two years, which was a rear rusty bolt on the rear bumper. Never broke any new bolts.

Cue the Torque Wrench Puritans.

 

The Toyota Gods allowed me to get out the 2nd broken bolt.

That side is finally done. I did the bolts by feel. Moving on to the driver side CV next. Still baffled by torque wrench oddity. It worked fine on my lug nuts.

 

What size torque wrench are you using? I used my 3/8s on all my suspension and got clicks on everything.

 

Both have a 1/2" drive.

 

I also discovered I can't loosen the fill bolt on the front diff. I need a 10mm hex socket with a 1/2 inch drive that way I don't have to use my adapter. That space is awkward and there isn't enough room to get a breaker bar in there. Naturally, none of the stores here seem to stock one.

 

I think I used a 3/8” ratchet drive with a 10mm hex on it so it fit in that front diff space. A 1/2” won’t fit. Have to put a short short 1’ section of 1” pipe on the 3/8” ratchet as a breaker/extension for leverage. You can use your foot/leg once you get the tool in place if the plug is stuck bad.

 

The drive size shouldn't change the length of the socket. It's the distance between the ratchet head and the end of the socket that's the problem. I'm having to use a 1/2" to 3/8th's adapter on my breaker bar that's just long enough to keep it from working. I wish I had a piece of pipe. There are many times now that it would have come in handy.

 

The ratchet size does indeed change that depth projection that is not allowing you to make it happen. A 1/2” ratchet is thicker and a little deeper than the 3/8”. Put them together and see.

You need a 3/8” ratchet with the hex and a pipe.

 

@FirstGenVol correction on the pipe diameter. Can’t remember, but it may be 1 1/2” or 2” inside diameter pipe (not 1”). The length is 1’ for sure which allows for maneuverability options under the truck. I can confirm tomorrow.

 

I ordered from my local dealer for $1.45 a piece, plus free shipping to the dealer.

 

Yesterday was a wet & muggy day, I was on my way to a service call and noticed that the interior SR5 fabric trim on my passenger door panel was sagging / pulling away from the panel.

During some down time on the job site I investigated the issue more closely, it looks like a small amount of moisture is making it's way into the cab where a flat spot has formed in the cab side weather strip.





It's also happening on the drivers side, but it's not as sever yet.





Has anyone else experienced this... what did you do to correct the problem and fix the interior fabric?

 

@Rex Kramer

You should do a few things. Pull that rubber off and clean behind. Add some butyl rubber. Check my build page for the pics.

I think immediately, you should push that hard plastic piece of your door panel in so that its not contacting the rubber causing the deformation. Fluff the rubber back into shape and apply some 303 Aerospace or Silicone on all the gasket. Its an easy job to just peel it back starting at the front quarter panel and peeling back till you get to the cab top.

 

Does anyone make an aftermarket battery tray that's more robust than the OEM plastic one? Since moving up a size my plastic tray is starting to warp from the additional weight.

 

I still have really bad wind noise coming from my driver side rear door while on the highway. I've checked the rubber seals and they seem fine. Nothing seems really bent. The noise is comparable to what you'd hear if you cracked a window about half an inch. Any other ideas?

 

What size did you move from/to?

 

Where is your build page?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...vestment-‘build’-a-chronological-story.46816/

 

Have someone ride back there while driving and try to pull/push on the door (while keeping closed) to mimic/identify sound. Still could be your door seals. Or, might be somthing else the person in the back can id.

 

@FirstGenVol

Or, anyone doing their front diff oil change. This is the set up you want to use.

 

Guess I'll be taking The Woman for a ride. LOL

 

Realized I’m gonna have to pay more that 8-9k for a truck I want lol

Looking at these. What do you guys think of the overall price and condition?

Also how would you guys feel buying a tundra with over 200k?

https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/5TBDT48105S501139

https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/5TBDT48136S534640

 

Did your back door get opened too hard? My front door got caught in the wind and I think it bent the hinges. I've got some atrocious wind noise now.

 

That's a cute nipple you got there...

 

Remind me what company that is.

Those red/orange marks are not dust unfortunately. They won't even come off with rubbing compound. I cleaned up the area as best I could with degreaser then tried buffing them off with no luck.