Shackle install help needed....

What a pain in the rear. I removed the blocks, installed the new 1/2 spacer and new U-bolts, then moved on to the shackles. I took the first shackle out, lowered the rear axle (had jack stands under the frame), and guess what.....the exhaust is in the way. The leaf springs came down to the exhaust, and I would need it to drop another 4 or 5 inches to get the shackle in. I ended up putting the blocks and longer ubolts and stock shackles back in until I can figure it out. I'll take measurements in the morning but here is how my exhaust sitswith the truck on the wheels with the stock shackles. Frustrated as hell....lol.

 

May have to remove the tailpipes for extra clearence.

 

It's a custom exhaust so I can see if unbolting the hangars will help.....I'm not sure what areas are welded.

 

Do you think I'm okay with the reuse of the ubolts until I order another set?

 

Personally I think your fine to do so..

 

Unbolt the exhaust sounds like the custom exhaust is your issue for sure old ubolts are fine to reuse

 

Thanks buddy. I'll take measurements and more pics this afternoon. So I dont need to worry about the thread rolling and torque issue that everyone mentions?.....or should i still order new ones.....thanks

 

So you are using blocks and shackles?

 

The blocks are in right now. I am trying to switch to shackles.

 

It’s ideal to replace them since threads stretch and stuff but if you torque them to spec I wouldn’t worry to much about it. If you over torqued them before then ya I’d ditch them.

 

I torqued them to 74 foot pounds when I reinstalled them. I would have to look up what Readylift's torque specs were on the original install. I may just order another set from Toytec and scrap the ones from Toytec that were on the truck for an hour. I don't know if I feel comfortable putting them back on once I figure out the shackle issue.

 

Here are some of the exhaust pictures. It looks like I can unbolt the 4 hangers at the rear and the one on the center of the muffler and slide the rubber hanger off of the muffler as well. Will it lower the exhaust enough without damaging anything?

 

May have to unbolt the sway bar as well

 

Might want to think of just cutting the pipes just after the axle. Or getting it reworked. It will hit the pipes upon full droop as it sits. Even worse with the shackles. My leaves hit the edges of my sway bar after shackles. I need extended links.

 

Same. Old i bolts are fine. It’s reusing nylon nuts that will screw you.

ps if you chop the exhaust make sure they dump it downward or you can melt some stuff. Keep it away from your abs/ brake lines and any wiring under the truck.

 

Don’t take this the wrong way but that exhaust job looks like it was done by a blind, one armed, technician. I def say cut that sucker off, install your shackles and then take it to a pro who knows how to actually weld pipe together, and who uses proper exhaust bushings and hangars. I paid 300 for full custom cat back exhaust in my Nissan and it looked factory. Is that a hole burned into the side of the pipe?? If this is your handy work, apologies for the brutal honesty. Not trying to dog you just judging based off what I see. Looks like he burned a hole in your frame as well

 

which shackles are you using?
i just installed the +2 coachbuilder shackles:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/installed-coachbuilder-shackles.66757/

with the sway bar disconnected, the shocks disconnected, and with the rear end at full droop, my leaf springs just barely touched the exhaust. with the new shackles and everything bolted back up, there is still 3.25" of clearance between the leaf springs and the exhaust. from your pics, it does look like you should have enough room for the shackles

As someone else said above, however, whoever installed your exhaust did a hacky job. you could have the exhaust temporarily removed, install your shackles, and then have the exhaust put back on.

good luck.

 

I'm using the Toytecs. As far as the exhaust, it needs reworked at some point. The original shop that did it put too much stress on it and it was snapping the hangar rods. I use a different guy now. I did disconnect the lower shocks and the sway bar. I put jack stands under the frame and then lowered the axle with a floor jack under the diff. But the leaf springs hit the exhaust and the floor jack was all the way down.

 

It was unbolted as well.

 

No way did I do that mess. The original shop that did it years ago put too much stress on it and it snapped hanger rods. I use a diff shop now. The hole in the pipe is a repair where one of the original rods broke at the weld.

 

did you remove your rear tires?

it could be because you have the block installed

 

Tires were removed and so were the blocks. I took the blocks out after I unbolted the shocks and sway bar.

 

with the toytec shackles, are you going with the 1" or the 1.5" setting?

my recommendation is to install the shackles, bolt every thing back up, and then see how much clearance there is with the weight of the truck on the ground. i bet that the the leaf springs wont touch the exhaust. if it does, then cut the exhaust off and have a shop weld them back on so that you do have enough clearance.

 

I'm going with the 1.5. The problem is that when I lower the axle, the leaf springs hit the exhaust and dont drop enough to get the shackles in. Would unbolting the exhaust hangers lower it enough? I need like 4 to 5 inches it looked like.

 

yes, unbolt the exhaust hangers.

 

I called Toytec. He said unbolting the hangars should allow it to drop enough.

 

So I lowered the exhaust and got the shackles installed along with a 1/2 inch spacer to replace the 2 inch block. Here are pictures of what I have for clearance. I can stick my fingers between the exhaust and the leaf springs.

 

Awesome. Good job. Looks like the bushings came out easily for you. You should probably have that exhaust properly rehung.

 

Yes I'll definitely have to get it cleaned up at some point. It looks like there should be enough clearance between the pipes and the leaf springs. The bushings came right out. No soaking or anything. Just a ball joint press with receiving cup and my Craftsman 300 ft pound impact wrench.....pushed right out. Not bad for 94,000 miles. I'll test the ride today with the shackles over the blocks. Definitely rides alot better than the spacer kit.

 

You will love them.