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Installed Coachbuilder shackles

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Netmonkey, May 7, 2020.

  1. May 7, 2020 at 10:17 AM
    #1
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    Georgetown, TX
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    Icon stage 2 lift, 295 60 20 nitto ridge grapplers, fuel kranks, TRD dual exhaust, TRD rear sway bar
    I recently had an Icon stage 2 lift installed, but the Icon mini leaf pack in the rear only gave me about 1/2" of lift. So, I ordered the +2 Coachbuilder shackles. I know there are videos online on how to replace shackles and it is a fairly straight forward process, but here is what I went through to install them.

    The Coachbuilder installation video is great for all the bolt-on parts, but it does not cover the removal of the stock bushings (more on that below).

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmJ6Xjjtpe8

    The shackles arrived nicely packaged. You can see the "no CB" writing on the label. That was a misunderstanding in the ordering process. I spoke with David and he shipped out the carrier bearing drop kit right away:
    [​IMG]

    The +2 shackles. These are really heavy duty:
    [​IMG]

    Truck with the Icon lift:
    [​IMG]

    41" fender to ground:
    [​IMG]

    Before you start this work, don't forget to chalk your front tires :)
    [​IMG]


    There is a bunch of preparation to do before you can even start on the shackles (this took me 30 minutes):
    • Remove spare tire.
    • Place the spare tire hanger up in the frame so it doesn't wack you in the head while you are working :)
    • Put the rear of the truck up on jack stands (see video above).
    • Remove rear tires.
    • Remove the shock bolts (the weight of truck may have to be off the shock to get the bolt out).
    • If you have a sway bar, unbolt the links from the bar.
    • You can remove the rubber exhaust hangers so that the exhaust drops down, however, I didn't do that.

    With the shock bolts out and the weight of the truck on the axle, there is about 5.5" of clearance from the exhaust to the leaf spring:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Position of stock shackle with the shock bolts out and the weight of the truck on the axle:
    [​IMG]

    Almost full droop. The leafs don't quite touch the exhaust (I hadn't unbolted the sway bar at this point).
    [​IMG]

    Removing the stock shackle is super easy. Remove the nuts and then pry/wiggle the side of the shackle off the bolts. Then, with a hammer, hit the bolts to remove the other side of the shackle.
    [​IMG]

    With the stock shackles off, it is time to tackle the stock bushings. First, hit them with penetrating lube. I used PB Blaster.
    [​IMG]

    Setup the ball joint press on the bushing and start cranking away. I recommend setting the screw of the press toward the inside of the truck. That will give you lots of room to work.
    [​IMG]

    Keep screwing until the bushing pops out.
    [​IMG]

    Well, this is where I ran into problems. The outer sleeve of the bushing would not budge. No matter how far I pushed the center or banged on the sleeve with a hammer, it just would not move. After I turned the ball joint press screw about 2" into the bushing, I felt like I wasn't making any progress. So I backed it out to see where it was at:
    [​IMG]

    The center part of the bushing just separated from the outer sleeve. I felt stuck at this point so I called David at Ekstrom Design. He was very helpful and gave me many suggestions. He even had me text him pictures so that he could see what was going on. I tried a bunch of options, but ultimately, he said that the center rubber part can be pushed(torn) out and then, using a sawzall, cut out the metal sleeve.

    I was still stuck because I don't own a sawzall. Fortunately, however, my neighbor walked up to see what I was doing. After a short conversation he said that he has a sawzall. So, we pressed out the rubber part of the bushing and then cut up the metal sleeve. This was a major pain in the ass. That metal sleeve was in there so tight. We had to make 2 cuts on the sleeve to remove a slice of it. This allowed the sleeve to finally collapse and come out. It took 2 hours to remove that single bushing.

    I was dreading having to remove the other bushing. However, it came out like it was supposed to. I was able to press the bushing as far as the ball joint press cup allowed and then I was able to bang the rest of the bushing out with a hammer and a chisel. The second bushing took about 20 minutes.

    Here is that troublesome bushing:
    [​IMG]

    The other bushing popped out whole:
    [​IMG]

    Lesson learned... if you try to install these shackles, be prepared for the stock bushings to give you trouble. Be sure to have a sawzall handy.


    So, after 3 hours, I can finally start installing the new shackles. From here, everything is just bolt-on and it goes together like it should. Stock bushings remain on top, bushings on the spring eyelets removed.
    [​IMG]

    Per the included instructions, lube the new bushings and sleeves. Then insert them into the spring eyelet. Interesting observation here... on the eyelet with the stuck bushing, it was very hard to push the new bushings and sleeve into it. I had to really bang on it with a hammer. I bet that the diameter of this eyelet was just a tad too small. I could push the new bushings into the other eyelet with my hand and with only a small tap on the sleeve.
    [​IMG]

    Per the instructions, lube the bolts and attach the shackle from the top.
    [​IMG]

    This is where you will have to drop the axle to get the shackle to line up with the eyelet. Be aware of your brake lines. Mine were stretched pretty tight. This shows the position of the shackle at full droop.
    [​IMG]

    With the shackles on and the axle at full droop, the leaf spring just barely touches the exhaust. However, the lower shock bolt is out and the sway bar is disconnected so the leaf spring may not touch the exhaust when everything is reassembled.
    [​IMG]

    This shows the position of shackle with the weight of the truck.
    [​IMG]

    Everything is now bolted back up and torqued to spec. I kept the sway bar in the original position. I know others have rotated the sway bar up 90 degrees to maintain the correct angles. Maybe I will tackle that another day.... I was getting tired :)
    [​IMG]

    With everything complete, there is about 3.25" inches of clearance between the leaf spring and the exhaust.
    [​IMG]

    I had to move the spare tire over to the right to get it to clear the shackle bolts. If you lave a larger spare tire, I am not sure how these shackles would work.
    [​IMG]

    I could definitely see the difference with the new shackles.
    [​IMG]

    42.5" from fender to ground. This gave me about 1.5" of lift.
    [​IMG]

    So now, I have 2" of lift in the rear. To balance out the stance of the truck, I raised the front an additional inch. So now the front is at 3.5" of lift.
    [​IMG]

    Ohh...and I can still fit the truck in the garage with 2.5" of clearance to spare :)

    Thanks for looking :)

    5-9-2020
    UPDATE:
    I just took the truck for a short drive around town (including on the freeway) and I am seriously impressed with the ride. The bushings that come with the shackles don't have the teeth on them like the stock bushings do. This allows the shackle/eyelet joint to articulate (unlike the stock setup). This allows for an incredibly smooth ride.

    On one of my calls with David, he said that the new bushings eliminates that rough jarring bounce you get when driving over freeway expansion joints. On a previous trip through California, I experienced this same bouncing. It was awful. I can definitely see how these new shackles and bushings will eliminate that.

    So I highly recommend this setup to everyone. Even if your truck isn't lifted, you can get the +1 shackles or even just the bushing kit:
    https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...urethane-bushing-kit-rear-leaf-spring-eyelets

    I put this up there as being one of the most recommended modifications that you can do on the Tundra.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2020
    188Glazier, poheller, equin and 24 others like this.
  2. May 7, 2020 at 10:43 AM
    #2
    TrooperDC4x4

    TrooperDC4x4 New Member

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    Good write up.
    When I removed my leaf spring bushings I was having the same problem that you did, the rubber inner portion was just stretching. After some searching around the garage I found a piece of tubing with a diameter close to the outer bushing ring. With the tubing and an old lug nut I made a piece to push on the outer bushing and they slid right out in 1 piece.
    Saved a lot of trouble.
    Here is a pic of my homemade press tool to use with the ball joint press.
    Info for those who have to do this.
    IMG_20200507_103044994.jpg
     
  3. May 7, 2020 at 11:02 AM
    #3
    gosolo

    gosolo You Don’t Know Who I Am But I Know Where You Live

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    2"CB shackles, bushings and 1 shim, lockerdown console vault, rear folding seat back mod, snugtop shell with opening side windows, 46g fuel tank, SDHQ sliders and hidden winch, Decked Drawers, Alcan leaf springs and got rid of the interior chrome
    great write up and excellent pictures!

    With my 2015 Pro, when I added the CB2” shackles, the springs definitely were laying into the exhaust at full droop. The non pro suspension you have plus the rear sway bar, may be what is different.
    CD649B93-30D5-4893-ADA4-739850DE544C.jpg
    this picture is taken at full droop with the wheel off the ground. You can see the cut exhaust pipe clearly. Definitely would interfere with travel.
    I have since replaced the springs with custom Alcans.
     
    Netmonkey[OP] likes this.
  4. May 7, 2020 at 11:27 AM
    #4
    mountainpete

    mountainpete Explore more

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    Function before sparkle.
    @Netmonkey that's a quality post. Thanks for taking the time put it all together. Very useful :thumbsup:
     
  5. May 7, 2020 at 11:52 AM
    #5
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    Very "real world" write up. What you ran into is so typical of a DIY project.

    To wife:
    "Hey honey I'm going to be about an hour, just going to bolt on these shackles."

    Wife in house hearing sawzall at the 3 hour mark:
    "WTF is he doing out there, AGAIN! It's never just an hour!"

    LOL
    Well done.
    Fortunately your neighbor bailed you out. Great looking truck!
     
  6. May 7, 2020 at 12:58 PM
    #6
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    Icon stage 2 lift, 295 60 20 nitto ridge grapplers, fuel kranks, TRD dual exhaust, TRD rear sway bar
    thanks :)

    haha... i had that same conversation with my wife. i thought it would only take 2 hours, but i ended up spending 5 hours in the garage (including raising the front coils). she was like, "wtf? i am hungry. are you going to stop and eat?" :)
     
    DZ_, camron1039, 316KS_Runner and 3 others like this.
  7. May 7, 2020 at 1:04 PM
    #7
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

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    Great write up! I need to get mine installed too, those are helpful photos
     
    glowblue and Netmonkey[OP] like this.
  8. May 7, 2020 at 2:03 PM
    #8
    glowblue

    glowblue From time to time

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    Great write up too:thumbsup:

    While my bushings came out in one piece using a ball joint press it still was a PITA. I forgot to unbolt my shocks and I couldn’t drop the axle enough to get the new shackles to line up :eek2:. Took me a minute to re read the instructions and figured it out and that did the trick.


    Note to others who stumble on this: I’ve seen more videos on YouTube where the guy replaces the bushing in the frame which are already poly bushings not realizing the leaf spring rubber bushings are what you actually replace
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2020
    DZ_ and Netmonkey[OP] like this.
  9. May 7, 2020 at 3:24 PM
    #9
    ZPhilip

    ZPhilip Custom title here

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    Good write up. I had to cut out both bushings just like that.
     
    Netmonkey[OP] likes this.
  10. May 7, 2020 at 4:18 PM
    #10
    Jbehredt

    Jbehredt Burgeoning member

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    Be sure to check torque in a couple hundred miles. I knew mine backed off slightly when I got in one morning and heard a slight click in the rear.
     
  11. May 7, 2020 at 5:30 PM
    #11
    Scud

    Scud New Member

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    Working on it :-)
    Similar experience but this happened to me.

    IMG_2469_2.jpg
     
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  12. May 7, 2020 at 5:49 PM
    #12
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    Icon stage 2 lift, 295 60 20 nitto ridge grapplers, fuel kranks, TRD dual exhaust, TRD rear sway bar
    Doh!
     
  13. May 7, 2020 at 5:55 PM
    #13
    Alexstundra

    Alexstundra Not a new member

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    3-1 level kit with add a leaf. 295/70/18r cooper max. Spider head light tail light and third brake light, tint, badges off, ladder racks, trd pro grill, color matched hood bulge, grab handle,coach builder +2, dv8 front bumper with winch, fender flares, bed cover....
    You just reminded me that when I installed my new rxt leaf pack didn’t switch the bushing from my stock leafpack that had the ones from coach builder :mad:
     
  14. May 7, 2020 at 6:50 PM
    #14
    saybng

    saybng Just a member.

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    Thank you for this write up..I'll need it.. :thumbsup:
     
    Netmonkey[OP] likes this.
  15. May 8, 2020 at 5:05 AM
    #15
    Kojack

    Kojack New Member

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    Same thing happened to me when installing shackles. Passenger side I had to use the saws all on and the drivers side just popped right out. Good write up and pics. I am sure it will help a lot of guys here.
     
    glowblue and Netmonkey[OP] like this.
  16. May 9, 2020 at 3:39 AM
    #16
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    Icon stage 2 lift, 295 60 20 nitto ridge grapplers, fuel kranks, TRD dual exhaust, TRD rear sway bar
    I just took the truck for a short drive around town (including on the freeway) and I am seriously impressed with the ride. The bushings that come with the shackles don't have the teeth on them like the stock bushings do. This allows the shackle/eyelet joint to articulate (unlike the stock setup). This allows for an incredibly smooth ride.

    On one of my calls with David, he said that the new bushings eliminates that rough jarring bounce you get when driving over freeway expansion joints. On a previous trip through California, I experienced this same bouncing. It was awful. I can definitely see how these new shackles and bushings will eliminate that.

    So I highly recommend this setup to everyone. Even if your truck isn't lifted, you can get the +1 shackles or even just the bushing kit:
    https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...urethane-bushing-kit-rear-leaf-spring-eyelets

    I put this up there as being one of the most recommended modifications that you can do on the Tundra.
     
    glowblue and blklimitrd like this.
  17. May 9, 2020 at 4:04 AM
    #17
    blklimitrd

    blklimitrd New Member

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    I’ve got Pro Form Fab shackles coming (because I’m cheap), I’m thinking about throwing the Coachbuilder bushings in while I have everything torn apart back there. Thanks for the write up!
     
    glowblue and Netmonkey[OP] like this.
  18. May 9, 2020 at 4:20 AM
    #18
    xtyfighterx

    xtyfighterx New Member

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    What I did to you need the bushings for sure.
     
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  19. May 9, 2020 at 5:17 AM
    #19
    Green Thunder

    Green Thunder Smooth in the Cruise

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    Great write-up. I for one will be paying a shop to install these for all the reasons posted about here. Glad it is a fairly straightforward install other than the bushings.
     
  20. May 9, 2020 at 6:39 AM
    #20
    blklimitrd

    blklimitrd New Member

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  21. May 9, 2020 at 7:12 AM
    #21
    vhstejskal

    vhstejskal New Member

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    Awesome write up, especially setting expectations that you’ll run into the dreaded factory bushing. Knowing to anticipate that get you mentally prepared for this DIY. :thumbsup:
     
    Netmonkey[OP] likes this.
  22. May 9, 2020 at 4:12 PM
    #22
    xtyfighterx

    xtyfighterx New Member

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    No I had to get new my stock bolts were seized inside the bushings lol I had to cut my shackles with a sawzal. One bushing came out with the press the other I had to chisel out.
     
    blklimitrd[QUOTED] likes this.
  23. Jun 13, 2020 at 9:01 PM
    #23
    Y0TA PR0

    Y0TA PR0 Dirt biking & fishing

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    Great write up Thanks! I’m doing this tomorrow.
     
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  24. Jun 14, 2020 at 9:19 PM
    #24
    Y0TA PR0

    Y0TA PR0 Dirt biking & fishing

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    I decided I hate bushings! :annoyed:

    03769A1C-8332-4671-A447-EF1CAF7F3E50.jpg
    Round two tomorrow to get the outer metal sleeve out!
     
    iHacker and Netmonkey[OP] like this.
  25. Jun 15, 2020 at 12:33 AM
    #25
    mr_gso

    mr_gso IG @imperial.shuttle

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    Great write up. I have the stage 2 icons as well and have noticed the rear sag a bit. Time get some CB shackles on. Thanks!
     
    Netmonkey[OP] likes this.
  26. Jun 15, 2020 at 6:43 AM
    #26
    THP865

    THP865 New Member

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    Anyone know what the ID of the shackle bushing hole is? I would like to have a piece of bar handy for a press when I get ready to do this in a couple of weeks.
     
  27. Jun 15, 2020 at 7:04 AM
    #27
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    here is the diameter of the bushing:

    upload_2020-6-15_9-4-0.jpg
     
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  28. Jun 15, 2020 at 7:11 AM
    #28
    THP865

    THP865 New Member

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    Perfect, thanks!
     
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  29. Jun 15, 2020 at 8:19 AM
    #29
    Ted4311

    Ted4311 Don't Sweat The Small Stuff

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    A LOT... NEVER ENDS
    :spending:

    Ordered just now.... Now waiting to install new shackles...

    Good post and much appreciated feedback. Thanks
     
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  30. Jun 15, 2020 at 11:44 AM
    #30
    Y0TA PR0

    Y0TA PR0 Dirt biking & fishing

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    Holy! Two hours later!
    0DA4F2CD-87AC-405C-A692-D5C4FEFBF583.jpg
     

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