6112 Setting and Tire/Wheel Combo Thread.

Weekend flexin lol



6112 / 5160
Icon add a leaf pack
1 CB shim on front driver side
Wheelers superbumps all 4 corners

305/65R18 BFG KO2s
18x9 +25 Method NVs

 

Nice! Do you have any more pics of your truck?

 

Thank you sir

https://www.tundras.com/threads/flyinryank’s-white-15-cm-build.19063/

 

Many thanks! Great build!

 

Yea! All the parts are here.
This is the stock height of the truck (275/70/r18)
Will post up before and after.
Also upgrading tires to 33/12.5/r18 BFG KO2
Can't wait!

 

6112’s top setting, 2 Boss shims on driver side, one on passenger. SPC UCA. Boss shackles at 1.5” w/5100’s in the rear. BFG AT KO2 275/60/20

 

How is the ride compared to stock?

 

rides great! Seems more planted. Smooth on highway and less body roll on turns, if that makes any sense.

 

I gotcha...just trying to figure out what to go with...the only offroading I do is a boat ramp....lol

 

Need some help. Against my better judgement I am attempting the 6112's myself. I have removed the stock and I assembled the new but can't get it in. I put the tophat bolts through and start a nut on one. The bottom of the strut will not go into the housing in the lower control arm. The body of the strut is hitting the sway bar attachment before I can seat it. Any help is appreciated.

 

2019 TSS Off Road if that makes any difference at all.

 

Make sure to disconnect the anti-sway bar. On the smaller 1st gen Tacoma, the control arm assembly can be more easily pried down to fit the bottom coilover eyelet. But the Tundra has a much bigger, stiffer assembly. I loosened (but did not remove) the lower control arm bolts (not the alignment adjusting cams), and then disconnected the lower ball joint assembly. Some folks disconnect the upper ball joint assembly. Either approach will more easily allow you to fit and align the lower coilover eyelet into place.

I’ve heard of others leaving both ball joint assemblies on, loosening the lower control arm bolts, and with an extra set of hands he-manning the lower control arm assembly down using a big, long pry bar for leverage. I did it solo and lacked the strength and skill to do that. So I just disconnected the lower ball joint assembly.

I followed a few youtube videos that helped a lot. Some were of a spacer lift or TRD Pro coilover install, but it’s all the same process.

When you get it all done, it helps to lower the truck back with all 4 tires on before reconnecting the sway bar.

Hope this helps. Post pics when you get it all done!

 

Oh, and be sure to get an alignment afterwards.

 

I assume you’ve disconnected the upper ball joints castle but from the spindle? Beyond that it was a matter of leverage for me. I used a 2x4 braved against a solid point that’s not your oil pan and gently applied downward pressure on the lowers control arm. ?? Good luck. Hope this helps.

 

I can move the sway bar at will. Just can't line it up as it is hitting the sway bar assembly. My ass is kicked

 

Let me rephrase. I can move it side to side to get it in the housing. Just can't push the eyelet toward the housing

 

Rephrase again--told you my ass is kicked.
1) I can move the lower control arm down all day long.
2) The sway bar assembly is not allowing the strut cylinder to move down toward the housing holes as seen in pic

Apologize, I am spent

 

I apologize if I’m not helping, but I’m curious about your top plate on the shock. I’m trying to remember how mine were and I think the arrows needed to be pointed toward the tire. Are you certain the arrow is pointing out and all the top bolts are aligned with the holes? ( I think that’s how mine was). Also, it almost seems like if your lower arm was slightly raised up it would increase the space between the lower shock mount and the sway bar link.

 

I think I understand what you’re saying now. I admit I don’t remember my sway bar ever being in the way like in that pic. There should be a bracket further in that holds the sway bar to a crossmember of some sort. I’m wondering if there’s a way to loosen that bracket allowing you to better rotate the sway bar out of the way?

 

Thanks everyone for the tips. I am going to attack again in the morning as I feel like I am so frustrated I am not thinking straight. Feel free to offer all tips and I will give updates and pics tomorrow! Thanks again.

 

Unbolt the sway bar towards the front of the bumper/crossmember. There should be 2 brackets holding it and 2 bolts on each. This should allow you enough play to get it back in the groove on both sides. Torque everything back to spec but Don’t put the bolts in until you lower the truck on all of the sway bar bolts. The sway bar is basically much easier to put in with the truck sitting on all 4 wheels.

 

Also have to play around with a floor jack under the LCA to get the sway bar out of the way. Use a breaker bar for leverage to move the sway bar out of the way too.

It just takes a combo of man handling and finess.

 

I got it in. Now trying to get the two bottom LCA bolts to line up. Got one in and the other is about 1/8 away. I am forfeiting my man card.

 

For the spindle? Just use your jack

 

1.9 No shims. 5100's no lift in rear. 275/55/R20 stock wheels and tires. It is measuring slightly over 3 inches higher in the front now. I am hoping it settles a little if not will add a one inch shackle. Thanks everyone for the tips while I struggled to get it done!

 

Way to stick it out and push through! If your not bleeding, throwing a tantrum, or fighting back tears is it really a project or an accomplishment?!? Lol. Looks great. Enjoy! If u tackle shackles plan on renting the ballpoint press and having several “testing” moments. For now just enjoy the win!

 

They will settle. Unfortunately it’s over time. I had to get 3 alignments within 6 months due to them settling lol. But they finally settled out right at under 2” of lift.

 

Almost done! So are you talking about the lower ball joint/hub assembly? If so, I had trouble, too. Like Danman said, use a floor jack. I also used a long screwdriver to help align the bolt holes a bit better. If you’re only 1/8” away, then you’re almost there.

 

If I go with shackles, why would I need ball point press?