What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

That is most unfortunate.

I have always used cheap Amazon specials because usually by the time the plasti-weld on the outer cover starts failing I will hit another deer, and break the mounting points.

Then its junk anyway, but thats just me. No reason for me to buy the high dolla OEM on that one.

From "rusty red" to wire wheel, and then high gloss rust-oleum rattle can.

First coat of rattle can black applied.

Off to the lake with us.

 

Still a lot left to do. But man is it coming out good



( @Darkness probably needs a change of pants after seeing this)

 

Gorgeous!

 

I have to find time to dye the rear panel fabric. And I still have to figure out the flooring situation.

and find a replacement lower dash piece since mines damaged from the PO

 

I'm still considering new black carpet. Especially since I spilled about 10 ounces of teriyaki sauce on my gray carpet. Saw a decent looking kit for $190 that I may pick up soon.

 

Rock auto sells ACC carpet. It’s fairly priced and all the sets I’ve seen fit well.
Yours should be easy to get.



reg cab carpet doesn’t exist. Access cab might work but it’s hard to justify paying 200 bones to have a 50% chance it’ll fit right when cut.


@isaami could you grab pics of the carpet right behind the driver and passenger seat of your parts truck?

 

I have to mention, i got the speed signal wired up while the dash was out, and now the radio is 100% functional sans the ebrake signal (i see no need for this) menus are blocked out while driving and diagnostic screen shows a speed reading. Reason for this? if i decide to add the nav module to the radio it will function correctly. So if i find the module cheap enough i may add nav.

 

Ahhhh I’ve found the stupid noise that’s been driving me bananas!!! 6100s on the very top perch and apparently they are making slight contact with the strut body.
Has anyone else dealt with this, what are my options?
Do I just need to re seat the upper part of the spring in the top hat?

 

Isn't that the light no one can detach to tint from the inside?

 

Hard to tel but is this red circle where it’s making contact? My only guess would be that you have the springs compressed too short since you said your 6100s are on the top perch and the spring when collapsed still needs to go somewhere to it flexes to a side and the inside of the coil is rubbing the strut. Make sense?

 

That makes sense for sure, but it’s up at the top right side, kinda looks like rust, from where the spring has rubbed thru the paint

 

is the spring upside down or did it come unseated from the top perch? You know how it has that flattened spot at the end of the coil. Believe that goes on the bottom.

 

I will check when the sun is out

 

I bet your phone has a built-in flashlight lol.

 

Took the 02 back to the Toyota stealer a few weeks ago for warranty repair of the drivers rear wheel bearing job done about 3 months ago because I saw diff juice leaking out after an under chassis inspection. Hadn’t been under since the total brake rebuild job!

Service lady texts me that the tech was able to ‘finesse’ the seal back in place. Say what? I called to speak to her and she admits the tech said he originally put the new axle seal back in like the prior failed mechanic had done! At least she was honest.

She said I need to put new shoes on due to the oil soaking. I said those are new shoes and why do I have to buy new and pay for that? She says let me talk to the manager.

So, now I have new Toyota shoes and am 4 visits (2 separate garages) in on a driver rear bearing axle job.

Other than that the truck has been operating flawlessly. I recently adjusted the LSBP Valve back up for a little more bias to the rears after experimenting after the recent brake rebuild. OEM muffler job is holding well. Been getting a few compliments on it looking real nice, appearance wise.

 

I pulled up his wiper spec on Camelbacktoyota's parts page.
https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/v-2006-toyota-tundra--sr5--4-7l-v8-gas

 

The @Professional Hand Model is back!

 

Welcome back @Professional Hand Model


I can confirm my truck does have the ball cooler.

 

You prob need to check your top hat for wear. I have seen where Tacomas can do this.

 

@CodyP
The only difference I saw from side to side was the passenger side(side rubbing) is on perch 6, while the driver side is on perch 8. Giving my driver side 3/4” more height than passenger. I’m trying to ask the PO what the shop set them at.
maybe I will order some of those KYB top hats and redo those while I re perch it properly. It’s just weird, the one with more preload isn’t touching at all

 

Welcome back! @Professional Hand Model

 

Welcome back! How was your mandatory vacation?

So they started leaking again? At this point I'm not sure it's worthy time to fix it again. I will, and hope it goes right. I just gotta stop being lazy.

 

Nice.

The Stealer owns this repair for life now. Hahahahaha.

Its the same place I bought the truck in 02. I buy parts from them, as well. They overcharged me over the years on a few service related things and also let a few things slide like TSB service recalls. Never had time or the knowledge base this site has offered so they’ll be held to new standard from now on.

 

Carrier bearing came off way easier than I expected, I was mainly worried about the dent in the capture nut not clearing the threads, but ol beef cake impact had no issues!
Now I just need to look up torque values

 

That is weird. I'm outta ideas but I do like checking the top hats and at like $30/piece its not a bad idea since you're gonna adjust the perches anyways.

also, @Professional Hand Model you still have that exhaust tip and wanna send er my way?!? Keep looking at my lowly non-tipped exhaust and it's crying out that she doesn't think she's beautiful enough. She needs something more....but just the tip will do!

 

Yeah maybe the circlip fell down a groove unevenly? I’ll get it sorted out after I can decompress them and see what’s going on exactly

 

Drive line feels smooth as a hairless cat now. There seemed to be quite a bit of slop in the old CB, and it basically fell off after I removed the mating surface flange.
Yesterday I followed PHMs write up on cleaning the AC evap. I was pleasantly surprised how dirty it was, my resistor was cracked as well. I sprayed the evap with my cleaner from work, foamed up real good, cleaned the blades on the fan, eyeballed what I hoped could be a solution to a cabin filter, but there way to much shit in the way to make it easily or even not easily accessible.

 

What's your plan for a cabin filter?

 

Haha I have no plan, to many obstructions, some are movable and doable, but others aren’t so I don’t see a way to make it happen. The blend doors would probably hit a standard size filter once they flapped down, one duct is easily removed but another is not so easy if it all without removing the dash.

maybe I’ll revisit and see if a thinner filter(s) could be placed at the front and back openings to the blower housing area, I’m not sure if there is only 2 openings that would need to be “filtered”