Sound deadening

Thanks@Twinky and on a side note I grew up going to Kemal to get shrimp at Joe Lees even before the board walk. My brother lives in Sante Fe and has a 38’ go fast boat that we have a blast on when visiting. Twin 700hp big blocks visiting the Turtle club, the girls love it!
Sorry back on topic, Thanks for the help and advice

 

Don’t bother with those plastic rollers....they work ok but I literally could not find a store that carried a good solid roller and I failed to order one when I ordered my Kilmat. I finally found the plastic one at Lowe’s and it started falling of the plastic retainer post on about the 2nd door. They will do the job as long as the roller head stays on but if you are going to use these, do yourself a favor and buy like 5 of them.

 

And to not cover over the drains at the bottom of the inside of the door too! Knew a guy that spray foamed the inside to "seal everything up" and he eventually had water dripping out of his speakers! Lol

 

Got a 3 pack of heavy metal rollers from Amazon.

 

Yep....that was my mistake, not ordering a good one when I ordered my material. I figured I could just go pick one up and the hardware store, paint store, auto parts store, wal-mart, etc.....NO ONE had them except Lowe’s with the cheap plastic ones

 

When I am done with the tools and any excess Kilmat I will donate to a veteran or someone that is on active duty. All they have to do is pay shipping.

I am 60 so I feel this will be that last vehicle I do this to. LOL , so may as well pass it on.

 

so should you put the clear plastic back on after doing the inside skins and then put the Kilmat over the plastic seal?

 

No need to do that as long as the holes are sealed around the perimeter.

 

Thanks @DCB500

 

As @DCB500 said no need. There are different types of sound deadening for the door. I personally prefer single skin sheets from Cascade audio VB2HD The concept is to dissipate sound vibration throughout the material. The greater the uncut surface, the more effective the vibration dampening works. So a single sheet to cover the entire door is the most efficient application, as well as the most effective. It doubles as a vapor barrier, and honestly is the best stuff out there for a door application, inner and outer panels.

Outer




Single sheet with no perimeter breaches




Heatgun to 500° and get to work..


You are then ready to foam and spray your plastic door panels and put everything back together.



http://www.cascadeaudio.com/

VBLOK
VB1= pro spray 6 cans
VB2/HD = doors, in & out and anywhere 10 sheets
VB3 floors, tunnel, back wall, firewall 9 sheets
VB4 above headliner 3 sheets (sunroof)
About $3500 for everything and about 60 hours (I'm a little OCD and take my time.) This is an extreme approach but it is what I used to do for work at one point for M.I.T. for their autonomous vehicle projects with the gov.

My truck is a tomb.

 

Wow that is impressive! @Toyotoholic

Definitely did it right the first time!

 

Thanks, I had to remind myself it would be worth it many times. Now that I'm enjoying the music, I'm as happy as a clam to have done the work.

 

Holy Crap, That is awesome!!!!

 

yeah it may very well be better but with as much water as gets inside those doors the killmat will keep the moisture out of the cab if the holes are sealed. I’m sure with the work you did on your truck it’s super quiet and tight.....but I spent a little over $100 and half day, so really not a comparison lol. But when I said it doesn’t matter was more referring to simply keeping moisture out of the cab.

 

Thanks!

 

The first and only thing I said about the moisture was "as @DCB500 said no need".

Everything else was just an example of other methods/materials/levels that are possible. As long as there is a barrier of some sort, and the bottom drains are clear, it really doesn't matter what you spend or what result you get. Anything is better than nothing. But if you spend $100 and think it's great, good for you. I'm jealous! lol

 

Sorry man

No you’re good man, seriously wasn’t trying to be defensive if it came off that way....I wish my whole cabin was sound deadened, one of my only complaints about these trucks for what they cost that this isn’t done from the factory, at least an attempt to make the cab more quiet. So was just saying my little $100 job while an improvement couldn’t be compared to what you’ve done for results....wish I had the time and disposable funds to do it to that level!

 

All good my brother

 

@Toyotoholic Wow! Nice work! A LOT of time and effort.

I just ordered the ESP underseat storage and figured I'd pull the rear seats and do the back wall and rear floor for now. I ordered some 100mil KnuKonceptz Kno Knoise Kolossus deadener and some of the Sonic Barrier MX-4. The KnuKonceptz is a regular butyl/foil CLD but 20mil thicker than the Kilmat and Noico. The Sonic Barrier MX-4 is very similar to SoundSkins and SoundShield. It's another butyl/foil with an added 3mm of closed-cell foam on top (0.05 mm of aluminum, 1.5 mm butyl, and 3 mm foam = 180 mil). We'll see how it sounds and I'll try to do the doors, front floor and roof at a later date. I also may add some mass loaded vinyl (MLV) down the road.

 

I called cascadeaudio today. Guy quoted me a cost of $207.00 for about 12 sq ft, (49x36)of vb3. Are you saying you used 9 of these or was this some kind of kit?

 

12sq ft is a single sheet.
Actually I bought 10 sheets but I only used a little of the last sheet. So, yes. For $207 you get one(1) sheet. There are some shop packs of 3 sheets but I haven't seen the shop packs for the VB 3 only the VB2.
The VB3 is a lead plenum, foam suspension, absolute BADASS product. Worth every penny if you ask me. Like is said I spent about $3500 just on the materials from Cascade. Take your time and use it wisely!

https://www.tundras.com/threads/sound-matting-worth-it.22604/page-8

Post #233 is some of the VB3 install.

 

Dang. Thats some serious sound deadening! Did you do anything to the headliner?

 

Thanks!
I have VB 4 for the headliner, but never got around to doing it. I did do in front and on side of the sunroof for just what was in front of my listening position. I almost always have my sunroof open so it never became a big issue for me. The cab base, (imagine cutting off the entire top of the truck as if it's a windshield only convertible) this is where all the speakers are, and that is what makes all the difference. If I turn my system up with all the windows down, sunroof open, rear window down, as much open air as possible, and drive 70 on the highway, i can hear the system perfectly loud and clear because there is no road noise in the cab base, where the music is coming from. It doesn't have to overcome any road noise from below or behind the speakers, just the wind above , and it does this very easily.

 

I ran across this deadener, https://gpcaraudio.com/gp-stfu-v2-250mil-20-sqft-5-sheets/ It's a lot thicker than vb4 though it only has foil center compared to a lead center. Also it seems to be geared for subs. One would assume that its not as good, but it is a bit less expensive

 

I am not sure how that compares to Kilmat(is only about $60 box )and a box is 36 Sq ft. I bought 2 boxes did the entire back and floor of the rear. Inner and outer door skins, completely under passenger footwell. I only had 3 or 4 pcs left so it was perfect amount.

I know that Kilmat isn’t on the top of anyone’s list but it was easy to apply and works well. You have to use some effort to shut the doors and no more tin can sound when they close.

 

Me neither but I ordered 40 sq ft. of it. Im going to do a decibles before and after and see just how well it does.

 

That will be great info to have.

 

After removing the 60% section of the backseat I fastened a panel on the back of the cab so I could mount my amps dsp and other hardware. I dont know what I did with the factory sheet of what I believe is vinyl that was draped over the back but that area is a major noise hole without it. I ended up removing all the hardware and the panel and plan on covering as much of the inside as I can with sound deadener.

 

Lead? I'm not sure I understand.

I'm sure both products are really good. GPAudio as far as I know has some good products under their brand.