PNP amp/speaker overhaul

Yes, I ran through the passenger firewall boot; put the power cable behind the valence in the engine compartment; valence is held on by 5 plastic nuts that screw right off. Inside the truck, you can remove that molding triangular molding piece and the door sil panel pops right up; route the wire there, then turn in under the carpet to the amp under the passenger seat. I can send some pics later if you would like to see my install. If you got the same JL pkg I just put in, prepare to be blown away, it is sick man. Toyota should be ashamed of the speaker garbage they put in these $50k trucks.

 

I will likely go through the drivers side as there are other items I will be installing when I do this. (Remote start and TRD pro lights with dimming harness)

thanks for the offer. As I dig into this, I will have more questions I’m sure. I can do so many home improvement projects but this is my first real car work that involves electrical, so I’m a bit insecure on this one.

I’m sure it says somewhere in the instructions but any hints on actually attaching it to the battery? Is there a fuse with it?

If this info is in his instructions, don’t worry, I’ll figure it out.

I’m considering making a video of this to share. I can find so many videos on other things for the truck, but not many full audio install videos.

I’m so looking forward to getting this thing installed!!

 

If you have any questions along the way, ask James, he's a very nice guy. His instructions are not completely comprehensive with every little detail, so you will have to figure a little bit, but there's plenty of people on this board that can help. I went through the passenger side b/c there was more room to work under the hood and I didn't want to route the power wire from the driver's side over to the passenger seat through the truck.

I can tell you I could not get the power wire through the firewall by myself; I had a buddy help me; he pushed through the engine compartment while I fished it and pulled into the truck. The ring connectors in that amp kit are a pain; you need a hefty crimping tool, or at least I did to make sure I had a good solid crimp. Fuse is included. Just be patient, take your time, most importantly finish 1 thing at a time. This was the first amp I installed and the whole job turned out very clean.

Another tip I learned here, is the speaker adaptors for the doors that he sends are light colored MDF. Spray paint them gray or black before you install so you cannot see them through the door grill. Orientation matters on the front... I actually painted the wrong side of one of mine and had to use a black sharpie and didn't quite color enough of it and you CAN see it from the right angle.

 

Thank you!!! @4Yotasince99

 

How are you going to route the power from drivers side to passenger side once in the truck? I ran threw the passenger side it is pretty simple that way. I also have remote start installed and there is a lot going on that side of the truck. I have done two of these installs in the tundra I did the power by myself on both. I used a coat hanger with some e tape and a little wd40. I stuck a small flathead screw driver through the boot first just to punch the hole. Also definitely get yourself a can of flat dark paint I sprayed both sides just to cover my ass.

 

@newguy... how'd the install go? Or is it still going?

 

@4Yotasince99 I’m still trying to find a good solid period of time to start it. . Thank you for asking.

 

Do y

Do you have any pictures of the install? I’m about to start this also and James’ instructions don’t cover everything. Thanks

 

I will post a few pics in a little while.

 

same place I had JRT put mine and it is the perfect location to make quick tweaks!

 

okay, I don't want to bug James with this very basic, possibly stupid, question. But how the heck to you connect the wires to the amp? I figured out how to unscrew the top of the amp. Are there connectors I'm supposed to use?

or do I simply maybe strip a bit more of the wires and back out the screw, put the wire in, then tighten the screw?

I'll do that until I hear otherwise.

 

You got it... Maybe strip twice as much off and double the bare wire over on itself for a better connection.

 

anyone have any pictures of how the amp mounts on the floor and how the cable connects to the battery?

 

Get this kit for all connections to the amp except for the battery:
VLIKE Ferrule Crimper Pliers Set Wire Crimping Tool Kit with 1200 Terminal Connector Sleeves Electricians Contractors Repair Support Ferrule Crimper Pliers for Stripper Wiring Projects

$20 Ferrule Crimping Tool, VLIKE Wire Crimper Pliers with 1200 Terminal Ferrules Connector Sleeves for Stripper Wiring Projects

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077VGG18B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6BbWEb4DRC0YJ

Get this for securing and protecting all the connectors:

Eventronic 300Pcs 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing Kit, Dual Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubes, for Charging Cable Headphone Cable Data Cable Wire Repair (Black, White)

Heat Shrink Tubing Kit 300Pcs 3:1, Eventronic Dual Wall Adhesive Tubes, 5 Sizes, 1/2, 3/8, 1/4, 3/16, 1/8, 5/16, 3/32", Marine Wire Cable Sleeve Tube Assortment (Black, White)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H279N16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jEbWEb9RY9MN9

For the battery cable, if you are running 4 gauge, get these and do not crimp them:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133046332007

If you are running 8 gauge to the battery, which I wouldn’t recommend, you will only need the above ferrules kit.

You will also need some cable cutters if you are using 4 gauge power cable.

 

Just finished! And exhausted.

will write more later, but this thing took some patience. Once I got going, I was in a groove.

I need to re-do my battery crimping job as I don’t trust it. Thank you @CaptainGrumpus for the links. Making some purchases.

be well everyone.

 

So are you are saying, if I try to piece together a system on my own, I m trying to emulate James s systems? Not to take anything away from James, but there are other folks who have a brain, and can build a good system on there own. Hehe. I wonder how James feels about having his leg humped like that? Never mind. He probably thinks if you are bring him more customer just hump away

 

None of this is difficult and it can be done a bunch of different ways. When I called around, shops wanted anywhere from $800-1200 for just the install which I did in about 6 hours with little to no knowledge of audio installs. James is great for someone like me - no idea what I was doing and I just wanted to get it done quickly and efficiently. He provides that service by taking all the guess work out of it. He also sourced several components at a much cheeper price than I could find anywhere else not to mention entertaining all my dumb questions after the install on settings and adjustments. My guess is he makes next to nothing on selling us equipment here compared to people who actually show up in his shop and he does the install. He really makes nothing after the sale answering questions about DSR settings, etc yet he still answers the questions. So sure, it probably seems like we're pushing James for Sainthood here but it's because he provides a great service to many of us for what appears to be not a whole lot in it for him other than wanting to help.

 

I took a look at James’ site and figured out a cost for it all and then I did some homework at crutchfield and read up some more on all the different options. I found Tex’s thread here and decided to go his route and piece it all together.

Here is what I ended up with:
Kicker KXA800.5 from Best Buy
Infinity Ref6530’s from eBay
Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10” shallow mount with matching box from Amazon
Kicker 4ga Ck4 wiring kit from eBay
Kicker KISL Loc cables from eBay.

Plus all the adapters and wiring harnesses needed to install from eBay and Amazon.

The biggest expense was the amp. I had a 10% off birthday coupon so I got it for $521. Doing so eliminated the need for an

$130 AudioControl LC7i 6-Channel Line Output Converter with AccuBASS

AudioControl LC7i which saved me $200 so I spent the same money either way if I had gone with a $300 amp.

Tex’s build thread is an invaluable resource and really gave me the confidence that I could piece all this together for around $800. In the end, I’m probably a few bucks shy of $1000 but I was able to buy it all in stages when finances allowed.

 

Nope, not my intention at all. I actually didn’t use James for my stereo other than my dash speakers. And I didn’t use him for my remote start either. If you were to look at what I have in my truck you would swear it was from him. So, I have done the whole piecing things together and, for me, it’s not worth it. Time is money (I have a little kid and another on the way). So to have everything arrive at the same time and not have to do research probably would have been worth it to be able to knock it all out in a single day. Sure, I’m glad I saved a few hundred buying used and discounted items but I still had to wait for all the pieces to arrive.. oh wait, and then go make an amp rack yadda yadda. I was just pointing out the pro’s of going with James. If you want to take 4 months to build your system and score some deals more power to you

 

I ve been putting together an audiophile system for well over 2 years, (if its even possible to build an audiophile system in a truck...). Might be another 2 before it s finished.
Amps; Rainbow Germanium 4ch, Helix M ONE X mono-block, (I have been considering buying another M ONE X for bridge mode, and having some fun with a 10" Crescendo Contralto I ve had in my closet for ages.)
DSP; Audiocontrol DM-608,
Front sound stage; Focal ES 165KX2 components.
Alternator upgrade; DC Engineering 270 amp alternator
Second battery; Northstar SMSAGM480
My original car I planned it for was quiet, but I totaled it which is why it s taken so long. At-any-rate, its going in my Tundra now. Just have to do major sound deadening.

 

This 100%. I'm an IT guy and was an ET in the Navy, and have done plenty of installs, and understand DSPs, amplification, etc. so I *KNOW* I could have done this myself. However, I could not have done it as cheaply as I did using the same quality components without going through James.

 

Hehehe. James would be proud you all have his back. And if he sells at cost then he deserves praise, because very few work in a business that doesn t try to make a profit, so here s to James . That being said I got a say that testimonials are one thing, but this whole thread sounds like a commercial for Tech12Volts. I will contact James and ask him about something Im ready to purchase. Everywhere I ve looked Focal 165KX2 6.5" component systems run $1299.00. Maybe James can do better.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202673479909

Not sure about ordering from overseas but for almost half the cost and the seller has already sold 40 sets of these maybe it’s worth the risk. The seller’s feedback is stellar as well.

 

Subd

 

Yea. That s an awesome price, but I stopped buying from ebay a few years ago. That company is scandalous, and you never really know who is selling what. I bought some tools, and returned them because they were junk, and ebay give me a bunch of sh*t for about 4 months. Anyway, eventually I got my money back, and when I did I canceled my account. Audio for fun has 100% positive feedback, so they re probably legit. But looking at their store they are selling high end stuff way cheap. Kind a makes me wonder why?
...I know why. Their in Poland. Being in the European Union will cost a vat tax, and shipping is steep too. Still cheap though

 

I’ve been bitten by cheap Amazon and eBay electronics. The manufacturer generally will not stand by the warranty when purchased from those shops.

 

Finding an authorized dealer is the key. This guy in Poland is an authorized Rainbow dealer. Not sure about anything else.

 

Actually after emailing audio_for_fun he says he isn't an authorized Rainbow dealer. So there you go. What could you do if he s half way around the world?

 

Just added a tech 12 Amp/sub package this weekend. Although James was very responsive, his instructions were not as detailed as I would have liked. If you do order from him, be prepared to figure out some things for yourself. Was hoping for more pictures or an install video but James just said to call him. I ended up searching these threads instead for answers.

Also had issues with the delivery sent to the wrong address and parts that weren’t sent with the order. James sent them out right away but it still took a week due to the virus situation and it complicated things a little.

Bottom line is the system sounds much better. Plays louder and clearer.

I want to change out the speakers next but I’ll see what other options are available.

 

well in all fairness you filled out our build sheet with the address we shipped it to . You did make a note at the bottom that you wanted it shipped elsewhere and my shipping girl is trained to read that build sheet address and go from that . She missed the note. We have been swamped and under staffed ever since this corona crap hit . There are companies out there that would have not even responded to your messages . Much less fixed the situation. We screw up sometimes . Now way around it. My employees and myself are human. Sorry you feel you didn't have a good outcome with us. And i am in no way blaming you . This was 100 percent our fault . And i think I did all i could to make sure it was handled as quickly as possible . as far as your door speakers with what you have now that is very easy upgrade and i can assure you we will not make a mistake twice . But feel free to order form whomever you feel comfortable with.