Head gasket failure..or loose bolt?

You have to put the service bolt In the sprocket. Otherwise your cam will fall apart at the gear

 

Make that the i-Force!

 

Exactly

 

We'll...this is for a different engine, but the first part explains the two gear issue. Looks like I'm good to remove it. I'll have o set it correct when it goes back in. I can make a tool for this no problem. Sweet!!
https://youtu.be/92yoyI_bML4

 

Cam came out fine...nothing came apart as per the video.will need to align it and use the service bolt on assy. Head is nearly off...looks like I know why the bolt is loose....broken head bolt. The broken piece was sticking out of the block about 1/4". I was able to grab it and spin it out..Lucky!!!

 

The engine has most likely been over heated and the head is most likely warped. That’s the only why I can think that bolt would break , unless someone over tightened it trying to get the head gasket to stop leaking . This keeps getting more interesting! Lol

 

55k. Based on the cam gears being out of align...I'm guessing someone who had no clue what they were doing was in side this head. The big question is....was the broken bolt the cause or the effect ..
Head is off, just cleaning up the block and head surfaces. Need to find me a straight edge....

 

Good thing it was a good deal .

 

Just some random thoughts as I sip a crown and coke...someone had to get to the point of removing the exhaust camshaft causing the gears on the exhaust camshaft to unwind and do who knows what in there. Then put it all back together but put that old shit timing belt back on!! It's a mystery. Hopefully I can get a straight edge tomorrow from Lee Valley and I can check the block and head. I'm guessing the block will be ok being steel. The head...I bet is warped. I used a very inaccurate aluminum level and a 0.006" feeler and there was a few spots it appears it would slip under. Totally not accurate and can't be used as a proper check...but there was a noticable dip near the cooling jackets between the cylinder bores closer to the outside of the head .

 

Some specs for the heads for people following this. Basically 0.004 allowable maximum

 

Attached specs . Looks like it's out by a decimal. 0.1mm =0.0039, NOT 0.039 lol

 

Here is what I have done on other motors. I like using a piece of glass since they are typically dead flat...within 0.001 or better typically. Just need a good straightedge. Typically I do it until I see no dark spots left (low) and call it good. But it's time to get one now I guess..

https://youtu.be/ad5ZnbzWP9s

 

I’m saving money to get a used 4.0 myself. I believe 05-06 Tundras can get donor motors from up to 2011 MY single VVT-I vehicles. I would need at least $800 to replace timing chain, tensioners, sprockets, new head gasket and various other seals on my 330k mike engine. I found some original condition motors with 90day warranties nearby for around $2k.

 

Man, that is a civil war surplus timing belt if there ever was one!

Dan

 

Ok...some good news. I cleaned up the head and block surfaces and removed all old gasket material. My straightedge is ground to 0.00015 over 12", so so trust it. Went and checked both the head and the block and there are a couple spots that a 0.002 will pass and a 0.003 won't. So I am calling the head and block good. Well worth getting the bar because my other methods made the head look worse then it was. Looks like I just need to clean the head up, new gasket, assemble things back together properly. Not sure I want to touch the other side...I may just remove the valve cover and take a look first before deciding.

 

I’d pull the other head, but I like to do things the hard/right way. It’s often the same thing.

 

I’d also do them both , I’ve been bit to many times ! But that’s up to you ?

 

We need updates!!

 

We'll..not many updates to report...waiting for my parts to arrive. Head and Block are prepped and ready for new parts. Will be installing when parts arrive. Those dang exhaust manifolds are rusty and crap. Found a set of stainless headers for $100. Going to put them on. My plan is to reassemble the drivers side before I tear down the passenger side. I want to make sure I don't run into any surprises that I need to watch for before I start on the other side.

 

Does ARP have a stud kit for the head bolts ???

 

Not that I could find. Only the 5.7L they have.

 

Supra store has head studs last I checked.
Hell they have full dry sump oil systems for building beasts

 

EL, I found the stud kit on Supra store. It's a performance kit from ARP. But at $275US that's almost $400 CAD...that's not happening. I'll get some new bolts, but I don't think a stud kit is in my future.

 

You got a budget I get it . We all have one .

 

Not a very good update, but got all my parts on order. Some have trickled in. Decided I am going to do the other head as well. Headers arrived, haven't checked to see if they are as bolt up as they say, but look decent. Better then what came off. I only have so much bench room so I am going to get the one head done and then move to the other.
During my removal of the I take, the fuel line cracked just past the threaded fitting near the fender when I was trying to loosen it. Anyone have any tips for me. Can't seem to find any aftermarket stuff. I think I can handle remaking a line from the fuel filter (I'm changing that too) to the I nation where the intake connects, but is there a replacement piece for what goes from the fender to what looks like the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail?

 

Ok. For those who know these engines well...my parts shop gave me a Fel-Pro head gasket set. Basically everything to remove and overhaul the heads and reassemble. However he gave me the set for a 2005-2007, or that's what it said on the box. Before I open it and risk not beings able to return it, regarding the head and block design...did they change? I know they added VVT in 2005 but does that change the head gasket? I see on some parts websites it lists not kits for my 2002 year and the kit I have had a not saying "updated design".

 

I wouldn’t recommend Fel-pro for your lawnmower. The poor quality is visibly obvious, and the times I’ve used their gaskets out of convenience they have let me down. Have you tried getting a price for the OEM gasket kit?

 

I agree if you have to spend a little over your budget on any part you would be smart to spend it on a OEM head gasket.

 

The job will be as good as the weakest link !