What engine oil/filter combo are you guys using?

Anyone tried the Kirkland oil yet? Looks to be decent stuff I just don’t want to use a full synthetic.

 

I wouldn't go with Costco store brand. A large majority of synthetic oil is actually petroleum based oil, the same as conventional oil with a different refining process. Either way, you should stick to a reputable brand

 

I'm with hoopty on this. The bigger the spread, the more additives or polymers in it.

 

Oh I’m not planning on using it, but $25 for 10 quarts is crazy cheap. I have been sticking to Quaker state and Valvoline high mileage.

 

Technically, you are correct. Viscosity modifiers are polymers "added" to a base oil to make multi-viscosity oil.

I was depending on a definition from Exxon Chemicals training 50+ years ago. Further discussion of organic chemistry between unarmed participants is likely futile. My point is that viscosity modifiers are chains of macromolecules, consisting of hydrogen, carbon, oxygen, nitrogen, other elements, that have physical characteristics closer to the base oil molecules than to other polymers like polyethylene. They are not inorganic additives that might coalesce and separate readily from the base oil.

 

My local Toyota dealer uses OEM filters and whatever oil is specified in the owners manual.

 

Store brands are usually made by the same manufacturers as the one they sell. Since Costco only sells Mobil 1 (or at least that's all they sell at my Costco), I'd assume it's a variation of rebranded Mobil 1...so, it's probably a good choice, especially if you are doing sub 10K mile oil chnages.

Pro-Tip. I'm an Irish Whiskey drinker. Costco sells a 1.75 liter of Jameson's for I think in the neighborhood of $45. The only other Irish Whiskey they sell is their Kirkland brand for $28 for 1.75 liter and damned if I can tell the difference, so I think it's made by Jamesons, but I don't know that. This applies doubly to their Vodka...actually more so, cause the Irish Whiskey I drink "neat" but vodka is always mixed in something....

https://www.liquor.com/articles/costco-irish-whiskey/

 

I thought this would help understand the difference between group 3 and group 4 synthetic oil.

Group IIIs are a somewhat controversial class as they are derived from crude oil like Groups I & II, but their molecules have been so changed by severe processing that they are marketed as Synthetics. Most people now accept Group IIIs as synthetic, but the discussion remains heated among purists, and I’m going to duck by not taking a side here.

Synthetic base oils are manufactured by man from relatively pure and simple chemical building blocks, which are then reacted together or synthesized into new, larger molecules. The resulting synthetic basestock consists only of the preselected molecules and has no undesirable weak links that inhibit performance. This ability to preselect or design specific ideal molecules tailored for a given job, and then create those molecules and only those molecules, opens a whole new world for making superior basestocks for lubricants. In fact, the entire formulation approach is different: instead of trying to clean up a naturally occurring chemical soup to acceptable levels with a constant eye on cost, the synthetic chemist is able to focus on optimum performance in a specific application with the knowledge that he can build the necessary molecules to achieve it. And since full synthetic oils are generally a company’s premier offering, their best foot forward so to speak, the additives are often better and in higher doses as performance trumps cost.

In general, synthetic base oils offer higher oxidative and thermal stability, lower pour points, lower volatility, higher VI, higher flash points, higher lubricity, better fuel economy, and better engine cleanliness. The amount and balance of these improvements vary by synthetic type, and can be quite significant for the engine and user.

 

Found this interesting

https://youtu.be/oc5i6Vevox4

 

USA defeats the Germans again!

 

Sounds like you are by far more educated on the nuances of motor oil than I am. All I have to go on some basic explanation from an auto engineer (oil for dummies). But some quick Google search and I still see things the same. I pulled this from finol

https://www.finol.ie/news/engine-oil-breakdown/

For example, viscosity index improvers are used to decrease the thinning effects produced by operating at elevated temperatures. They are the key components that allow for the production of multi-grade oils. However, the long molecules in viscosity index improvers are susceptible to shearing in service, which reduces their capacity to minimize fluid viscosity loss. Permanent reduction of viscosity index improvers can result in the piston ring sticking due to the formation of various deposits, an increase in the level of oil being consumed and faster equipment wear.


.

 

I don't think anyone mentioned Wicks oil filters.

Are they any good?

I buy mine at O'Reilly's.

 

I know they rebrand a lot of products. Some of their jackets around Christmas are north faces without the logo and sell for 70% cheaper.

 

That and 235k miles. I buy filters in bulk and oil at Wally World.

I run Liquimoly in my GTI but it's a bit expensive to throw in the Tundra. I do like getting those 5 quart jugs at Napa with the built in spout.

 

Ive been using the K&N oil filters with Mobil1 0-20 every 5K miles. Seems to be working fine.

 

I only use Wix and yes, I get mine at Oreilly as well

 

OEM filter, Kirkland brand 0W-20 synthetic.

 

@JQ3 Dont see why people do that. I just spend the money on a "good " oil brand and have the peace of mind of having the best oil possible in there. U literally change the oil twice a year.

 

Pennzoil platinum 5w30, oem toyota filter.

 

Interesting...

https://youtu.be/l9il_piyuT8

 

I use Liquimoly full synthetic in the 4runner - plan on using it in the Tundra as well.

If you buy in advance you can save quite a bit of $$

$158 Liquimoly 2208-4pk 0W-20 Special Tec AA Motor Oil, 5 L, 4 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-0...keywords=liquimoly+0w20&qid=1587264668&sr=8-2

I use OEM filters on the 4runner, will use them on the Tundra. Used them on my Avalon too. (different parts, but all OEM)

https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Genui...33------------&vehicleName=2020+Toyota+Tundra

And don't forget drain plug gaskets:

$12 Genuine Toyota - Oil Drain Plug Gaskets (QTY10)

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo...33------------&vehicleName=2020+Toyota+Tundra

 

Regardless of what oil you choose to use, using it correctly for the application should yield good results. Dino oil will break down over time with heat and engine stress applied to it. Should be changed more often. Synthetic will hold up well to extended time in the heat and doesn't have to be changed as often for THAT reason. But even indestructible oil will get dirty and need to be changed. Oil gets dirty due to combustion in the engine and gets carbon and combustion byproduct contamination. It also gets dirty with outside environmental contaminants from the air intake (worse for you K&N air filter believers). Oil should be changed more often in dusty conditions. Some oil filters really suck at their job and some are really good at it. Buy a good one. It's whats keeping your engine alive. Lots of info on the web, lots of tests and oil filter teardowns have been performed to demonstrate the filters that suck (looking at you cheapy Walmart Fram) and which ones perform better (Mobil 1, Bosch, WIX and all of its rebrandings, factory filter etc.).
I personally run:
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic or Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30
Mobil 1 M1-301 oil filter. (higher capacity, this thing is yuge)
Using the larger oil filter allows me to run 7 qts of oil instead of 6.5.
I do oil changes annually. Only driving about 6-8k miles per year.
255k miles or so on the truck now, motor top end is clean without sludge and runs great.
No oil leaks, no smoke from exhaust.

 

Same thing with the Kirkland tequila silver, tastes just like Patron. I cut up 3 jalapenos and 24 hours later sipping perfection!!

I use the WIX XP and O'reillys high mileage full syn 5-30w and change once a year or about 8-10k miles.

 

We do the same with Jimador Tequila. very good in margaritas!

 

Amsoil 0E 0-20 and trd filter same as amsoil. Cost is 65.00, but i do my oil changes every six months. i dont drive many miles so im not too worried about the cost. I also put in the mileage in the toyota owner page.honestly any good oil will work. I just order a lot of it and it works out for me.

 

How does that Amsoil OE do in your Tundra? I'm past the 2 free changes so now have put Amsoil Sig. Series in my truck with the Amsoil filter. I'm coming up on the 5K mark and oil still looks clean but I'm not a fan to going 10K OCI.....wonder if I should just use Amsoil OE or Boosted XL to save money since I try to change oil every 5K.

 

5w-30, Amsoil OE, 5k OCI, $27.78/gal. What I have in the truck right now, running well so far. Amsoil site, cheap membership for the discounts. Tried a few different other variation, 0w-20 Amsoil signature is great but too expensive, cost>benefit, was not there for me. Needed less signatures @hagrid @2mchfun

 

Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5W-30
Toyota filter (

$32 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1/2 Case (QTY 5)

90915-YZZD3)
Every 3k

 

Sigh... another 5.7 failure thread on the horizon.

 

Always Mobil 1 oil with OEM filter. It’s harder to find at Walmart which stocks the high mileage stuff for $2-3 more per 5 quart jug. Now I’m buying in packages of (3) 5 quart jugs.

I hate to say for the 1st 100k miles I used only Toyota brand 5w-30 for fear of violating my extended warranty. I look back and laugh about it now.