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Hope someone can help!

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by diacob, Feb 10, 2020.

  1. Feb 10, 2020 at 10:12 PM
    #1
    diacob

    diacob [OP] New Member

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    Hey all I'm new to Forum and owning a Toyota in general. I inherited a 2006 Toyota tundra single cab long box with 270,000km 4 months ago. It's been in the family since new and was taken care of pretty well. just had it serviced 2 weeks ago, did timing belt,water pump,serviced the transfer case,rear diff,transmission, greased the drive line,changed oil and coolant for peace of mind. The mechanic noticed rear wheels were not turning easily and adjusted the rear brakes and emergency brake. This weekend I had to brake pretty hard, not tire screeching hard but close. I let off the brake quicker then I usually do and the whole truck kind of bucked forward fairly hard and all of a sudden wouldn't accelerate out of what I assume is second or third gear not sure which but I think it shifted once before I had very little throttle response, as I depressed the gas pedal the rpm would slowly climb to maybe 2500 then it would finally shift and accelerate fine. This happened for about 5 minutes as I was close to home. When I got home I shut the truck off maybe 15 minutes started it back up and the problem was gone. Its been 2 days since and it hasn't happened again. My thought was maybe torque converter,transmission or did I shock the drive line, the truck never threw a code so I really don't have much to go on. Sorry for such a long explanation just wanted to give a little back story. Anyone have any ideas??
     
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  2. Feb 10, 2020 at 11:06 PM
    #2
    Tohopko

    Tohopko New Member

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    Just for clarification--was the engine accelerating without the expected response in movement, or was the engine slow to accelerate as well?
     
  3. Feb 11, 2020 at 12:19 AM
    #3
    diacob

    diacob [OP] New Member

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    The rpm's were rising very very slow and the truck was moving slow. I increased to maybe half throttle to see if anything would happen and the rpm's continued rising at the same slow rate until 2500-3000 rpm the truck shifted and accelerated normal again.
     
  4. Feb 11, 2020 at 12:38 AM
    #4
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    Sounds like it may of been a fluke. I would have someone run it for history codes.
     
  5. Feb 11, 2020 at 12:40 AM
    #5
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    It sounds to me like you have dragging brakes, possibly seized piston(s) in rear wheel cylinder(s) or in front caliper(s).

    You can start by jacking it up and seeing which wheels rotate freely in neutral, and if any don’t.
     
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  6. Feb 11, 2020 at 12:51 AM
    #6
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    very possible from all the heat a sticking piston on a caliper could of seized up completely.
     
  7. Feb 11, 2020 at 1:10 AM
    #7
    vegas4x4

    vegas4x4 Blaaack

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    I was thinking the exact same thing
     
  8. Feb 11, 2020 at 7:02 AM
    #8
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    I’ve taken care of my 2002 Tundra since brand new. Here is what my front calipers looked like last week when I changed them out. I bought brand new reman’d calipers to replace these as it was easier than doing the rebuild myself. 3 out of 4 calipers were frozen.

    Maybe one of your calipers was slightly frozen and your quick braking shocked it and blew it against the brake pad and froze there (seized) until later? Lots of corrosion in my caliper chamber and those rubber seals inside wear out over time. Something to consider.

    upload_2020-2-11_9-58-3.jpg

    upload_2020-2-11_9-59-57.jpg
     

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  9. Feb 11, 2020 at 10:33 AM
    #9
    diacob

    diacob [OP] New Member

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    Wow thanks for the info! I suspect you guys are right about the brakes and I've been thinking they need to be done before this even happened. But would this explain the problem with the engine not wanting to rev? it was like I had no throttle response to the input I was giving until it shifted and now it seems to have gone away.
     
  10. Feb 11, 2020 at 11:47 AM
    #10
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    I agree with @empty_lord ....take it to someone competent that will read the codes in memory. Literally could be a number of things....dirty throttle body, throttle position, etc
     
  11. Feb 11, 2020 at 8:30 PM
    #11
    PenderBen

    PenderBen Forum lurker…

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    Total guess, but maybe something loose in the fuel tank that temporarily blocked the pick up?
    Years ago I took a diesel tech course, the teacher ran a mobile diesel repair business, he said about 9 out of 10 times a vehicle that just died on the road had the fuel system blocked, usually by foil from a fuel additive bottle.
    If nothing else becomes clear as the problem, and it repeats, might be worth checking in the tank.
     
  12. Feb 11, 2020 at 9:35 PM
    #12
    diacob

    diacob [OP] New Member

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    Okay thanks everyone for the suggestions! I'll have someone take a look at it. I'll post what if anything is found. I definitely want to keep this truck as long as possible I really enjoy driving it!!!
     
  13. Feb 11, 2020 at 10:13 PM
    #13
    YardBird

    YardBird Native San Diegan

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    Welcome aboard from SoCal.
     
  14. Feb 12, 2020 at 3:22 AM
    #14
    Uhhhh....

    Uhhhh.... New Member

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    I’ve had this same exact problem with a 2003 Solara I own. Problem was the transmission. Fluid was very low for too long & I was unaware.

    It would only do this very slow, very low rpm acceleration from a dead stop; no matter how much gas I gave it. Once you were moving at hwy speeds it wouldn’t do it.

    I did a drain & fill & it was gone for a few days but came back - but didn’t do it as often.

    I waited about 1500 miles & did another drain & fill to get more of the old fluid out w/o killing the tranny (at 200k, you don’t want to do a flush). That helped a lot more.

    I’ll be doing another drain/fill after another 1500 miles. It’s been steadily improving.

    Maybe your recent tranny service got your tranny upset. With the high mileage you have, hopefully they did a drain/fill & not a full flush.
     
  15. Feb 12, 2020 at 4:53 AM
    #15
    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    If the rear wheels were hard to turn the mechanic needed to UN-Adjust the brakes. Is that what he meant? Take 5 seconds and jack up the rear right at the center, put it in neutral and make sure the tires spin. If rear brakes are properly adjusted you should here the drums barley scuffing the shoes.
     
  16. Feb 12, 2020 at 11:13 AM
    #16
    diacob

    diacob [OP] New Member

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    I believe it was mainly the emergency brake that needed adjustment, I didn't get to speak to the mechanic just the lady at the service desk, I took it to the dealership as I figured they had a bit more experience with timing belts on tundras.. I think I'm going to take it in soon and just have them go over the brakes front and back and replace anything that needs it.
     
  17. Feb 12, 2020 at 11:17 AM
    #17
    diacob

    diacob [OP] New Member

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    I think they may have flushed it since the person i spoke to said they hook it up to a machine? but I really haven't had any issue until I hard braked.. maybe that'ts just a coincidence and since I had been doing quite a bit of driving when it happened things got hot enough to actually cause a problem?
     
  18. Feb 12, 2020 at 12:02 PM
    #18
    Uhhhh....

    Uhhhh.... New Member

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    Ugh. Yeah if they hooked it to a machine they flushed it. I'm not trying to be doom & gloom, but from what most mechanics say that's not good for a high mileage vehicle. What's done is done though. If it is in fact the tranny, I'm not sure what you could do at this point. My prob was different, in that I unknowingly left the fluid level very low for a while & the several drain/fills I've done has helped. I'm not sure if a drain/fill would help you much since you already got all the old fluid out with a flush.

    Yeah, I don't know. It would seem very coincidental that the tranny started crapping right after a hard brake. Maybe if it was teetering on having problems, a hard brake could slosh the fluid around enough to cause issues with gears/belts/whatever is in there.

    I'm not sure, my friend, and I hesitate on giving you tranny advice. lol I just know what you described is exactly what was happening to my Solara. And it was the tranny. The fact that you had a flush done on very high mileage is cause for concern (to me), and possibly what caused this issue.
     
  19. Feb 12, 2020 at 9:42 PM
    #19
    diacob

    diacob [OP] New Member

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    I've heard that before about tranny flushes but I thought it was more so if the fluid has never been done on a high mileage vehicle your better off with a drain and fill, but the fluid in the truck has been done so I didn't think of it.. you'd think a mechanic would advise against it and do a drain in fill instead if that were the case but I guess being that it's a dealership they'd rather sell you a new car then keep your old one alive.
    Honestly this truck is a beast it runs strong and it still does.. It hadn't happened before nor since last Saturday so I'm hopeful it was just the jolt on the truck that made it freak out for a minute... If it happens again I'm going to bring it in for sure! I've got a 98 Saturn sl1 as a back up winter car lol
     
  20. Feb 13, 2020 at 4:17 AM
    #20
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Yeah. Let it ride and see if it happens again. Sounds like the jolt post symptom was something temporary.
     
  21. Feb 13, 2020 at 4:34 AM
    #21
    zombie

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    E-brake adjustment is separate from shoes being adjusted. E-brake should't be tight to cause brakes to drag as well. Adjust shoes first.
     
  22. Feb 13, 2020 at 4:37 AM
    #22
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Become one with the instructions from Toyota.

    upload_2020-2-13_7-36-1.jpg
     
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  23. Feb 13, 2020 at 6:26 AM
    #23
    Uhhhh....

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    This isn't a brake issue. Brake drag won't cause the engine to slow. OP said:

    "The rpm's were rising very very slow and the truck was moving slow. I increased to maybe half throttle to see if anything would happen and the rpm's continued rising at the same slow rate until 2500-3000 rpm the truck shifted and accelerated normal again."

    If it was a brake issue, the more he increased throttle, the more the RPMs would increase, but the car still wouldn't move. The engine would be racing, but the car wouldn't be going anywhere.

    A tranny issue would cause this, though, where more throttle wouldn't increase RPMs to the same degree.
     
  24. Feb 13, 2020 at 6:39 AM
    #24
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    I have a theory. The OP’s jolt caused the freshly over greased rear slip yoke to cause unnecessary pressure up the shaft and internally on the transmission seal. This pressure jarred the valve body mojo (inside the transmission) just enough to jar some of those bb sized balls in the VB to rattle out of position temporarily.

    Someone beat this one please.
     
  25. Feb 13, 2020 at 6:49 AM
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    Uhhhh....

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  26. Feb 13, 2020 at 12:29 PM
    #26
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Another theory:

    This one is a composite of my go to blame it on DEXIII fluid with a slight twist. The recent OP transmission service combo’d with the jolting stop rushed the fresh fluid up into the transmission front cavity flushing bad mojo off the torque convertor. The tidal wave of fresh fluid cleansed the gears and took a few hours to settle back into a groove.
     
  27. Feb 13, 2020 at 9:59 PM
    #27
    diacob

    diacob [OP] New Member

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    It was a pretty damn hard jolt, and given the timing of everything this sounds like the best theory I've heard so far! I say that because it did seem like the truck built pressure like a spring and then sprung when I let off the brakes quickly which I don't usually do.
     
  28. Feb 14, 2020 at 7:46 AM
    #28
    Jcmf52

    Jcmf52 New Member

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    I had the exact same thing after the first time I flushed the transmission fluid. After reading more about it, I had not properly filled the transmission.

    The key is making sure to fill it up when the transmission is at a specific temperature.

    Here is one if the multiple videos out there to walk you through the process. It was a lot easier to do once I found this process!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM_QoPiSEtI
     
  29. Feb 14, 2020 at 7:48 AM
    #29
    Jcmf52

    Jcmf52 New Member

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    Whoever serviced your truck did not know the proper way to fill the transmission (no dip stick tranny)
     
  30. Feb 14, 2020 at 9:44 PM
    #30
    diacob

    diacob [OP] New Member

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    Well it happened again today sooo not a fluke.. getting it looked at Thursday so not gonna drive it much until then.. I'll post what they "find"
     

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