What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Well - it's been a couple days since the last update.

Got the drums off and machined... BUT, guess what?



Darn thing has fluid on it AGAIN. After changing the seal ... After reading A LOT on this site, I knew that some folks have had the ABS ring pressed-on too far, so here's things pulled out:



Sure enough, that ABS ring/retainer are pressed on all the way. Not only that, but there's some horrible heat discoloration all over the tone ring ... IE: one of the prior owners heated that mother up with a torch so they could get it on. And put it on too far.

Had a shop do the work (no press at my home) ... and explained the spec and that there'd be a gap ... Here's how it sits with a new ABS ring pressed to the proper spec. It's a HUGE gap.



But, guess what? After having it done properly, it's all good and dry now. The shop was pretty surprised as almost everything they work on gets pressed to some obvious 'stopping point'. Oh, and with the machining of the drums done, my brake shudder is GONE.

Also, looking further at stuff, the plugs look like this:



Fairly clean, but seems like a bit of a gap, no? Probably change them to be safe, since they're cheap - under $3 Canadian each from what I recall.

And I get to tackle some other things: Serp and Timing Belt/Water Pump/Thermostat/Gasket, driver side CV Axle (boot cracked) and the aforementioned spark plugs. Eventually, this old rig will be good to go, LOL.

 

That is exactly the reason why I had my rear axle bearings done at the dealer. I'm not saying that there aren't good shops capable of doing the work or that I couldn't pull everything myself but the fact that I could drop it off and (reasonably) know that it was done correctly was worth the slight premium in price.

Plus the face if they screwed it up I could bitch directly to Toyota and make them repair it.

 

Yeah, but NO WAY I'm paying dealer pricing, I'm way too Scottish for that. The shop I had do it was skeptical at-first of the specs I gave them, but when they did their own research they came up with the same specs.

 

Natika. It’s pretty nice, metal housing and all. I threw a dab of silicon where the wire goes and it looks like it should last

 

I had the dealer do it



but I am the dealer

 

I understand, I figured 2 days to tear down and reassemble with a shop doing the press work that was quoted at $120+parts. Independent shops were $500ish depending on parts needed, dealer was $600 and included replacing everything.

Fortunately I've got more $$ than time for now so it was worth the cost to have it done in 6 hours. As usual YMMV.

 

Dialed in the rear drums a little more. Checked for leaks. Sprayed my rear bumper with Rust Reform and Gloss Finish. Greased the zerks on both drive shafts. Checked my battery voltage in the engine on and off position to confirm alternator is proper.

 

That's pretty reasonable - my dealership was MUCH more than independent shops.

An enviable position that I wish I were in. I spent nearly 10 years on/off of disability due to a spinal injury. I'm still trying to recover from that setback financially, which at nearly 55yrs old sucks, ha ha. So for me, every penny counts. Thus the used - but getting more awesome all the time - truck.

 

Made the mistake of actually LOOKING at my timing belt. Oh. My.



I have all the replacement parts already, which is a good thing. Considering this hasn't broken yet, I think I should buy a lottery ticket as well.

 

I think you're the guy I teased a few weeks ago. You live life on the edge man. Respect...

 

How many miles do you suspect this belt has?

 

Wiring the radio up.. making it look pretty in all reality all you need to run is 1 wire for the reverse signal.. I’m just trying to remove some connectors to make it easier to remove and install

 

Everything is in for front brake upgrade. These Truck/Tow pads from PowerStop have a large chamfer on each end. Seems like a lot of the pad contact surface is reduced? Is this how all front pads are made? See pic.

 

Did you ever see if he'd come over here and chit chat?

Where did you see the other pics?

 

I could have sworn the dude did a post, and lots of pics, I liked the post, but maybe I was dream liking imaginary posts about tundra breaks, I guess that’s a good problem?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-2006-tundra-big-brake-upgrade-kit-14wa-calipers.61231/

 

Someone posted about some big brakes and @empty_lord was on him like white on rice.

I wonder how much this upgrade costs?

He mentioned something about a manual LSPV mod. I have a question pending an answer on that thread.

Wonder if this upgrade needs a new booster etc? Lots of questions.

 

Nice, Stoked you're truck is all squared away! Was looking into this, what are the measurements you came up with regarding the spacing between the ABS ring and retainers?

 

Roger that, appreciate it brotha!

 

Who has the SST?

 

Stealership and @bmf4069

 

You think i could get away with taking a plasma cutter to a old housing?

 

Best thing is a press. Press off. And press on.

 

I need to get some new rear shocks, anyone have any suggestions? The ones I'm aware of are the fox and bilstein (5160,5100, and 4600), but if there are any more that are worth checking out let me know!

 

Roger that, the old Harbor Freight Special Shop press should do the trick. Wondering if i could hack up an old axle housing to mate up to the backing plate, rather than running down a high dollar Toyota SST

 

He said stock booster.

 

Really need to know how you're using your truck and what your budget is to make any recommendations.

 

Oh whoops. Id say mainly daily driving, I like to lite off road but it has been awhile. If I am upgrading then Id like to improve handling so if that means stiffer ride than I am cool with it. Nothing over like 300-400 hundred but from the ones I have looked at they are around 150-250 each which is fine.

 

Manual portioning valve is a simple mod. But I prefer the lspv, as long as it’s adjusted right.