2 ohm factory speakers??

I recently bought a 2020 tundra crewmax sr5 with the appearance package. I didn't get the premium JBL system, so i just ordered Skar Audio 6x9's for the front doors, 6.5's for the rear doors, and 1" tweeters for the dash. After ordering, I've heard that the factory door speakers are 2 ohm speakers? I plan on putting everything on an amp later, but was just going to swap them out for now. Has anyone else done just a speaker swap? Did ya'll have any issues or did it make that big of a volume difference dropping to a 4 ohm aftermarket speaker?

 

@james@tech12volts

 

Non jbl is 4 ohm. At least from what I recall when I ripped mine out. But the amp is only like 10watts per channel. You’re going to need to put a real amp on any aftermarket speakers

 

Yeah the speakers in the dash and front doors are all over the place. My non-JBL was 2 ohm woofers in the door, 6 ohm speakers in the corners of the dash and a dual-8 ohm voicecoil center channel. There should be an amp under the passenger seat that only powers the door woofers front and back, and also be aware that the signal is filtered at the amp, so you won't get any highs to that location with the stock amp in place.

Edit to add, since we kind of have conflicting info going on here, my stock system was Entune Premium non-JBL, just so we can compare notes.

 

They were all 4 ohms onn my 2017 dc sr.

 

I put Ifinity Kappas in front and added amp later. Better sound for sure but nothing like it is now

 

I don't know it that will make such a difference off the head unit. I've read ,multiple times of people just swapping stock speakers and it was a big improvement. I never did catch what ohm speaker they replaced them with. At a low wattage from the HU I wouldn't expect too much change.

 

Thanks for the input ya'll. I'm going to swap them out when I get home from offshore, and I'll post an update with how they sound. It's gotta be better than the factory paper crap they have in it now. I may order the amp for them at the end of the month, but i was really wanting to order wheels first. LOL!!

 

All the factory speakers are 4 ohm one way attached to a 10 watt rms headunit in parallel. therefore, you are probably gonna get everything between 150 to 1200hz. adding two and three way speakers is going to increase the range but not the volume. I replaced the headunit first, it got louder but still lacked the range. Later on added a 75 rms to the doors, no change in quality. Later replaced rear door speakers with 6.5 two way kickers and made a big difference. Months later replaced front door speakers with three way 6x9 and two way dash corners and this made a world of difference.

 

@wildbill2020 you can use the 2ohms on the front doors and dash, you just have to make sure you hook them up in serial for a 4 ohm load and this would work with an amp too.

 

It depends on which trim you have, but your statement isn't true, especially in OP's case. The dash speakers and rear door tweeters are powered directly from the HU, but the door woofers front and rear are most likely powered by an amp under the passenger seat. Source: also had 2-ohm door speakers, have since removed all factory speakers and have pics of the impedance and power rating for each.

 

All factory

Same in my 2014 SR5 non-JBL.

Doors



Side dash



Center dash

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/tec...h-speaker-group-buy-2020-version.60198/page-2

 

I would go with sound improvement over appearance. Amp will be a lot cheaper than wheels

 

The op said he does not have an amp, which means he have the base system, which is six speakers power by the head unit. Base model has the grill in the center but there's no speakers in it.

 

He just said he had the non-JBL, not necessarily the base audio system. I misread where he was asking about 2-ohm as him confirming that he had them. However, I don't know what the "appearance" package includes as far as Entune level, but I think it's pretty hard to find an SR5 with anything lower than Entune Plus, which should be the 9 speaker system.

@wildbill2020 you said you don't have an amp, but do you mean you don't currently have an aftermarket amp? Or did you mean that you have neither an aftermarket amp or stock amp under the seat? Can you look at your buildout and find which Entune level you have? That should help clear up confusion and then we can give you correct information.

 

I don’t have an aftermarket amp yet. I only bought the truck a couple weeks ago. It’s an SR5, with TSS. I’m not sure the level of Entune and all, as I’m pretty new to Toyota. My wife has a 2019 Camry SE, so that’s what made me get the Toyota. I’m still learning about it

 

Is there an OEM amp under the passenger's seat?
I'm going to guess yes.

You can swap the speakers and see what it sounds like, it won't hurt anything.
Your new speakers will possibly and probably need spacers to clear the window track in the front doors, possibly the rear door too.

Your amp replacement is fairly easy, you just replace the OEM amp under the passenger seat for the door speakers.
The dash speakers run straight off the stock radio, the door speakers run off that amp.
The stock radio only sends mids and lows to the front doors.
If you keep the stock radio you'll need a sound processor of some kind to get a full signal to whatever amp you buy.
That underseat amp wiring as every connection you'll need to replace the amp, you'll just need to run a line from the battery to power.
You can use this adapter to help with the new amp installation.

https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html

 

Thanks for the info!

 

I think he means that the final ohm load that the amp/headunit will see is 4 ohms.

In series,
Woofer 2 ohms + dash 6 ohms = 8 ohms

Then add in the 8 ohm center speaker parallel fro the dash and you end up with a 4 ohm final load presented to the amp/head unit.

Basically any different combinations of the stock speakers, and their ohm ratings, should calculate into a 4 ohm load in total.

I think that might be what he was meaning.

 

As far as I can tell from the diagrams Ive seen the door woofers receive power from the amp and the tweeters and center channel receive from the head unit. Given that the dash and the woofers would not be in circuit together, so the door circuit would be just 2 ohms. You could measure the resistance at the plug for the amp for a better idea, but speaker resistance is dynamic and wont be totally accurate in an idle state.

Either way the channels are separate and wouldn't result in a 4 ohm circuit.

 

Yeah don't doubt that to be correct. I was just going on an assumption compared to how mine was originally.

I had the basic, no amp, no center dash. My doors and dash were ran off the head unit and in parallel. But I was only trying to see if that was a possibility, though.

Either way, its definitely rather unusual to have two different ohm rated speakers in parallel or in series with eachother.

A 6 ohm in parallel with an 8 ohm (single coils) would be pretty close to 4 ohms so that makes sense.

 

I looked at the 2015 schematics and it seems Toyota classify the audio system into three categories:
1. Built in amp (no amp under passenger seat)
2. Separate amplifier except JBL (non JBL amp)
3. Separate amplifier JBL.

 

I have a JBL system with a factory amp with some modifications to the speakers. I replaced my front door speakers with Skar 6X9’s, as well as the factory sub with a Skar 8”(not sure which one, but it wasn’t a super expensive one). Looking at a new amp. The 6X9’s have a tweeter in the middle, but they play nothing(I don’t think that the JBL front door speakers do). I just had my JVC head unit go out so i am back to the stock one at the moment and plan to get a Sony 8100. I plan on getting rear door speakers as well. Do you guys have any advice on what amp(s) I should do for door speakers and sub? From what I have read on here, the dash speakers and other tweeters are powered by the head unit and all other speakers such as the door woofers and subwoofer are powered by the amp. The Skar door woofers are 4 ohm and the sub is 2 ohm. So what should I do to get the door speaker tweeters to work, as well just get more power out of my system from aftermarket amps. If there is any more info that I need to provide let me know.

 

What ohm rating did you go with on the fronts? I did something similar on my 08 with 2 way 6.5” kicker cs in the doors and 2 way 3.5” kicker cs in the dash corners but both 4ohm since that is what came out of the truck. Realizing now they are wired in parallel and presenting 2ohms to my

$295 Alpine ilx-w650 7" Double DIN Touchscreen Digital Multimedia Receiver with Bluetooth, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto

Alpine ilx-w650. Cannot find any stated specifications that that built an amplifier on the aftermarket head unit can support a 2ohm load. Been running it that way for about 6 months and no problems yet except realized I should probably add some base blockers on the dash speakers cause they are “hotter” than the doors and since they’re all on the same channel, need to balance them out a bit. Contemplating re-wiring in series to present 8ohms on the front channel. Thoughts?