What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Most of the ones I see are lightweight editions. Aka the beds rotted out

 

oooo the LTW mod.

 

For living near the beach rust isnt bad here, Uncles is super rusted but he lived in Tahoe for ten years and never cleaned the underside of salt nor done any work on it, Only oil changes every 5000. His tires are from 09 and basically bald with it misaligned. I see alot of DC.

 

I see a TON of 1st gen Tundra's here in East TN but they usually aren't in great shape. I rarely see many that have been modded and the most common are white access cabs that haven't seen a coat of wax in a decade.

I recently stopped near another 1st gen at a light and saw the guy take a picture of my truck. I blushed.

 

i'll never forget the moment i had a guy in a ferrari stop to take a picture of my truck..


i still wonder how many WTF IS THIS THING reddit threads my truck is on

 

Did he get the business side or the party side?

 

Where are you located? For some reason I thought you were in the south west

 

Chicagoland.

 

perfect time for throwing him a T sign....he be like WTF

 

Well ordered another $518 in parts
napa premium lower control arms - $150 each (OEM my cost was about 230.. nope)
OEM ball joints - $185 as a kit (recall part number)
Napa end links - $35 total

and i surprisingly had some camber sleeves and nuts and bolts.

 

Two questions. first one is would adding a rear sway bar stiffen up my ride a lot? or is it really only worth it for hauling heavy loads?

And second does anyone have a a muffler they use that doesnt drone alot? I was looking at the dirtydeeds ones with the Reso on is but looking for other suggestions. I dont wanna dumped after axle either because I have a snug top on.

 

I thought a sway bar was.more for corner by preventing body roll

What does your snugtop have to do with dumping the exhaust?

 

$500 Hellwig 7700 Solid, Heat Treated Chromoly, 1-1/8" Rear Sway Bar

Hellwig 7700 stiffens and plants the rear end. I highly recommend! It has 3 settings of which you start with the less stiff and move progressively depending on your preference. I moved to the middle setting and have left it there for about a year. Makes the truck drive sporty. Handles sharp corners without wobbling around like it used to. Adds stability for towing. Highway speed lane changes are quick and responsive. I also have the original front sway bar. All around good for regular driving and tow/haul.

Muffler? I still have the OEM. Read up on some members recommending Walker as a decently priced, delivered to the door, and DIY friendly option.

 

Ya it is but I would think when the bed is empty it wouldn't body roll nearly as much as with a heavy load. I drive with the bed empty or light loads most of the time, so seeing if someone who has it thinks its worth the purchase

Ive seen a few people say if you dump the exhaust right behind the real axle or any where down to the ground it will resonate through the bed and get trapped by the top. I think

 

it will. you want the tailpipe to exit off to the side or out the back of the truck

I personally plan on running 2 QTP mufflers when i do my exhaust... loud and quiet mode.

 

That was the one I was looking at. I wanted to upgrade rear shocks as well so maybe when I do that I get the hellwig and do them both. Thanks!

 

My truck suspension went through 3 phases:

1) Old and worn out front suspension with broken front sway links.

2) Front end rebuild with new front sway links and a working front OEM bar again. Felt good again!

3) Added Hellwig rear and WOW! why didn’t I do this sooner?

 

i dont know if i'll do a rear sway bar.. unless i can devise a way for quick disconnects.. i dont want to kill the rear suspensions flexibility

 

I don’t climb rocks so no need for rear end flex in my case. Any off road is sand driving which doesn’t require flex. If you drive street mostly and tow/haul the Hellwig is key.

A quick connect would be nice if one was alternating between daily driving and rock driving on a daily basis. Might look goofy with those pull pins?

 

i havent looked at the rear design. but looks wont matter to functionality. ive been thinking about a DIY QD front setup too.

 

It’s nice because you only need to disco one side. I want to find someone to go in on a set with!

 

This makes sense. Kills two (maybe 4 birds) with one stone?

Although, that rear sway might catch/jab on some rocks on the other side still connected.

 

Added some more foam to the kick panel area. (from a gun case, going to try and find the same stuff as oem)

 

lol .. I was watching those. Figured someone here probably scored a deal.

 

debating ordering this.. since my manual is... well destroyed by the PO

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-Toyota-Tundra-Owners-Manual-OEM-Free-Shipping/293387880760

 

@jImmegart there are a few keys to getting a muffler that doesn't drone.

Don't go to a bigger pipe size, you can get by with 2.5" if needed but nothing beyond that. Make sure the tailpipe exits out the side or out the back to avoid reverb. Stay away from chamber mufflers (flowmaster or magnaflow) as they tend to drone from all the walls in the baffle. A straight through muffler usually won't drone if sized right but may be raspy.

Dirty Deeds makes very good mufflers for first gen trucks. I've heard a couple in person and they can be mellow. I've been running a Spintech Prostreet with the stock piping for 9 years, no drone but it's a bit on the loud side.

 

magnaflows are straight through (at least the ones ive had) flowmaster is the only baffled design i can think of.

 

Well, I’ve got the rear shocks in, and am now working on the front. This darn axle nut is going to be the death of me. And tips to removing it?

 

Breaker bar with four foot pipe.

Helps if you put your tire back on and on the ground so it doesn't spin

 

Why do you need to remove that? Are you doing some work in addition to the c/o's?