What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Were my bushings replaced in the past? Not last year during front suspension work per the receipts. Maybe a long time ago and can’t remember?

 

I have a couple sets of the tekton and like them and my buddy is a mechanic and says he can't seem to kill them. I think for the money they aren't bad.

 

I’m so glad I’m part caveman with my straight axle and don’t have to deal with all this ifs junk anymore.

 

Good eye! Hand model turned optometrists!

 

Use both washers. One between frame. One at factory location

 

Maybe my set back today was for a reason? That drivers side nut also felt suspect. It twisted a tweak but I stopped because it felt like the nut was stuck and the bolt maybe was twisting to shear inside. I know this seized feeling. Might need to order some back up bolts just in case one breaks.

A little easy everyone does it job turns into a big ordeal.

 

Those are not factory bushings. The back washer is there to give the bushing a bigger surface area to hold. Otherwise you’ll just wear the bushing out faster

 

You’ve confirmed my suspicion. I’ve no idea when or who did this bushing replace. Not a big deal, but nice to know. One more thing confirming I need to get the new ones on soon. Thank you.

 

Has the rack ever been replaced?

 

Not sure. My focus was on other things all these years until recently. Basically just keep new fluids in her on a timely basis.

I do know both bellows leak ever so slightly. Never a drop on the ground, but just a wetness on the bellow. Rez levels always look good, too.

Looking like the total rack/bushing deal should all be done at once versus Mickey Mousing around. I’ll wait till the rez empties out on me till I do the rack and bushing at this point. Too much work unless the truck tells me otherwise.

 

Chopped the resonator and muffler, left the stock tail pipe and ordered the wrong size inlet tip (2.25”, need 2.5”) ‍♂️ Went with an original 40 series to change things up.

Ran true dual super 44’s on my ‘13 and loved them, ran a 14” magnapack on my ‘03 and it was a little muffled/fart-like at times, wasn’t a huge fan.

So far so good with the 40, can finally hear the V8 on start up and idle, really liking the deep rumble.

 

Alternative Day Time Running light delete? This is located at the parking brake. Looks like one could simply unscrew the switch and flip it or tape off the plunger.

 

Does this turn on your parking brake light on dash??

 

Oiled up the steering rack bolts. Checked all fluids. Same boring stuff on a truck with no problems.

Cracked both my front door handle cups removing the side panels for service work and sound insulation last year and decided to either buy new or fix them today. Experimented with the back cups and spray painted them with bed liner to give some contrast to all the ‘Moon Mist’.

Front handles are getting fixed up with some adhesive now. Looks like I’ll be spraying them along with my exterior trim tomorrow or Friday.

 

Drove a few miles in the rain, enjoyed my grippy Yokohamas, and saw a taco who wanted to go off road.

 

I wonder if he’ll sell me his rims now that his truck is totaled?

 

Did you stop and say, "nice to TREE you"?


Sorry, I'll see myself out.

 

That joke might be a banable offense!

 

@Professional Hand Model is that the Rustoleum bed liner you used?

 

Yes it is. I love the finish on it. Self priming and sticks very well especially to plastic. Quick drying and easy to use. Might end up doing a few other accents in the cab with it, as well.

 

Bedliner all the things!!

(I’ve thought about bed lining the inside of the bedsides for rust resistance, and it would kill that flimsy sheet metal sound when you knock on it)

 

We think alike. Whatever extra in the can I have left over will be going there. After I sprayed my bed metal and then put the plastic liner back in and sprayed that, it really strengthened the feel when standing/walking back there. Its amazing how much a thin film can strengthen things.

My doors are all butyl lined and that made a huge difference.

 

I’m debating dynamat like material on the outer door skin or spray stuff on the outer door skin inside my doors. Going to use riv-nuts and make some panels for the big open holes in the door to make them more structurally sound and hopefully more sealed for better sound system performance. But this is a project for later.

 

I often think about sound proofing my front doors, rears are already done. Then I remember I should replace my ten year old door speakers while I'm at it, then I consider how much better they would sound if powered by an amp, then I know I need to run new wires, then I think I should get a 5 channel amp and run a pair of 8s under the rear seat, then I'll need a box for those, then I remember I have way more stuff I should do besides throw a thousand bucks into my doors.

 

Exactly. This is the steering rack dilemma. All new parts etc. New impact wrench etc.

The butyl actually made my OEM speakers sound way better. The job is about 1.5 hours per door.

 

I do have an annoying buzz that comes from the lower edge of my passenger door panel. I had wedged a strip of felt with adhesive in there as a temporary fix but it seems to have worked it's way out.

 

@Darkness are new wires really necessary for that project? I didn't replace mine but I also didn't add an amp.

I've got Noico on my Christmas list. Hopefully my wife comes through on this.

 

Factory wiring can manage 50w if you really wanted to... hell some sound processors will run 80w through the factory wiring.

 

If adding a new amp I think it's the only way to go. I wired my cousin's truck when we put a 4 channel in it. It wasn't too hard until we hit the back doors. I took the easy way out and drilled holes with grommets rather than fish the wire through the door tube. I have to say I was a little mad about how much better his stereo sounded than mine when we were done. 3 months later he put the truck up for sale. He kept the amp and the two 12s I gave him, I hope he kept the 4 channel and door speakers as well.

I've done it on a few cars in the past, not too hard but time consuming. I want to hit 100 watts per door and 600 at least to the subs. Should be a good balance.