What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Think I need that Milwaukee high torque impact with 1500lbs of nut busting power. I have all the batteries. Might be my excuse to buy one, except I hate suspension work. I’m trapped in tool purchase turmoil right now! Hoot!!!

 

Got a.cheater.pipe.to throw on the end of that breaker bar? That's saved my bacon more times than I can count.

 

I tried it all bud. You saw the arsenal of tools. Breakers with extensions plus 1” pipe extension on that. Seized!

 

You tried hitting it with some heat?

 

I kept going between that and dewalt’s version. Ended up going dewalt since I have those batteries. Love it. No need to fire up the air compressor anymore. I did go 3/4” instead of the 1/2” though cause it’s a bit stronger

 

Nah. I’m going to keep spraying it over the next few weeks until I figure out the next move.

 

Everyone raves about those. I don't think you'd be disappointed. I think Home Depot is doing a sale on those for black friday.

 

Need some analysis on the washer location. Toy says put it under the nut as the drawing/spec. Energy Suspension says put washer between cross member and back of steering rack. Am I reading this wrong?

Is the difference because of Energy Suspensions design? Read somewhere Toy spec’d the washer wrongly, but have no access to Top Secret files to confirm.

 

The one in the key goes between the frame and bushing. The oem
But then goes on the other side of the bushing. The oem bushing has a built in washer on the frame side

Can kind of see it here (01 Tacoma, busy same setup)

 

Got my new 2.0 KWH starter installed and holy hell it turns over my engine 3-4 times faster than my old starter.

 

Yeah buddy. That HD starter versus the 1.2kw is sweet!

 

Since the remand 1.2 shit the bed after 10 days I decided to just go new and bump up to the 2.0 and super glad I did.

 

So what I’m hearing you say is the Toy diagram is correct.

Also, the Energy Suspension instructions are correct.

1) Follow Energy Suspension directions. Toss the OEM washer as one is not needed there now with the new bushing design.
OR

2) Save and re-use OEM washer and reinstall it at its original location along with the new kit AND the new washer goes in the new location between cross member, as well.

Please confirm. Thank you.

 

Should last a real long time from what I’ve read. Looks like a beefier construction in picture comparisons.

 

If you are not sure, there are some great Youtube videos that show how to install these bushings. I learn better from videos than those printouts.

 

Here is how mine looks now. @empty_lord

Looks like a washer is missing on the backside compared to your picture.

 

Drive it today and realized that there is about a 1/2second delay between pressing the brake pedal and the truck actually starting to slow down. Pedal feels good though. Is this weird or does anyone else have this issue?

 

Yall know I have one, right? It hasn't met a nut it can't bust.

NIB


Doing the WL upgrade.


Lug nuts come off like butter.


Crank bolt on my 92 SHO didnt stand a chance.


Steering wheel nut no prob.


Y-pipe on the SHO came off without PB on the manifold studs.



I HIGHLY recommend this or the dewalt one or wichever set of batteries you own.

 

Just when I convinced myself not to buy... @bmf4069 sucks me back into tool purchase turmoil!

 

You wont regret it. I use mine all the time at work for a slugbuster KO set. These chrome kobalt sockets have stood up to it too.

 

I have the Milwaukee. It's a beast! You will not be disappointed.

 

I saw your chrome sockets and was thinking maybe you don’t care about them. Glad they are holding.

Big Box has the tool plus one battery for $269. Or, I do Big Gurrl tool only for $199. I have plenty of batteries, but another won’t hurt. Might do big box.

This will force me to do new leaf springs now. I hate this thought process.

 

I ordered a nice set of TEKTON impact sockets to go along with the Milwaukee. Just saying...

 

Started building a rear winch bumper from and old Land Rover front bumper.

 

I know, I know. I need a set. But at this point I'm just seeing if they WILL break. I dont think they're gonna...(I'm gonna regret saying that.)

 

I been wanting one for years now myself. Maybe I should ask Santa.

 

I'm not sure you can get an impact in there. I am sure I wouldnt heat that up, too odd of a spot. The only way i could get it was a good sized wrench and some swivel adapters on a socket to break it loose. From there I used a regular socket and did the annoying 1/4 turn at a time.

 

Thank you for this. As I’m machinating through it all, I was wondering if that impact drill would fit for that top d-bolt.

I barely had room for an 18” breaker with a 6” ext. connected to a deep socket impact 19mm. Lots going on right there.

I didn’t do the heat/torch due to the rubber power steering hoses being direct above and there is no other angle to torch other than from the top side (possible but did not try yet). Figured I’d button it up and regroup like I did with the 12 hole injectors install. Remember that one took me 2 tries? First was my probe attack. Second try was a victory.

Main thing is nothing is messed up. I’ll soak this d-ring over the next few weeks. Crawl under and keep wrenching/tapping it a few times until it gives. Funny thing going into this job I thought the center bolt would be the bear to get out so I started there first. It was tight, but I made it happen. Figured it was downhill from there and then I hit the d-ring wall. Almost 20 years of seize on it.

Maybe give Kroil a try per @FirstGenVol

 

Wait I'm a little medicated. The d ring bolt you can use an impact on, I thought the center was what didnt work.

I'm having a hard time remembering but I think one of those d ring bolts has a welded nut inside the frame, the other has a bolt poking through and you have to hold that while you spin the nut off. It could be the other way around though. I would be careful to examine if the stuck one has a welded counterpart, you dont want to break a welded fastener in that area.

Sorry I dont handle benadryl well apparently.

 

I’ll post the diagram again. I’ll be looking at this tomorrow in the morning again to confirm some suspicions.