What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Getting closer to monstaliner-ing this thang!
I want to do it next weekend if it’s warm enough and I can get out of some other obligations

 

That's awesome! These trucks are in a weird place right now. They still demend a pretty high price in good condition, but also people are giving up on the rougher ones. Lots of good deals to be had if you can turn a wrench, swear, and don't mind cuts.

 

are you done yet??? I'm still stuck at work wishing I could drop my tailgate slowly and endlessly over and over again

 

Once he posts it’s complete, I bet the struts will be sold out in no time. Distributor is gonna be wondering what happened on the inter webs to make those struts so hot!

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nekv8F365yc

 

I would think you would want to have them out as far as the outside of your rear tire rim. I guess you are using kick outs to cover the rear wheels, but wouldn't you want them wider to protect the side of the truck as well - assuming a 'sheer rock wall' at some point in your off-roading life?
(demonstrating no clue in proper off-roading/slider technology)

 

That looks nicer than half the trucks still on the road here

 

Around here: The rough ones seem to be a parts donor OR need about $6-8k in work (reinvest) to bring them back from deferred maintenance status.

 

I already have all the parts though, and an extra one depending on which strut I use. I would have waited to buy them all if I knew that PHM was going to tackle this job. Or maybe me telling him I was half way through it and ran into some trouble made him decide to step up to the plate....I don't know. Either way, he's had more than enough time for his 2 cups of morning coffee and dropping a twosie

 

I think you are correct but I'm already planning on putting my front fiberglass back on and doing the rear eventually. Sticking out far enough to cover that from a vertical wall would make them pretty big. Not to mention the more they stick out the more leverage there is on the frame and mounts. I'm walking the line between ultimate coverage and practicality. I'm not planning on rock crawling but I expect to at least slide in a ditch one day (snowy/muddy desert roads and all...) and probably do a few Moab trips. Moab for site seeing, not for playing extreme rock crawler jeep.

 

How do you keep finding $1,200 Tundra's....

 

1st Gen Tundra Tail Gate Assist Success!

Should work on any truck, as well.

All measuring is up to you. Pictures should be self explanatory to get the ball rolling. Hardest part was the ‘Hansel Move’ reaching through the gate hole to install the washer and nut. The double sided tape helps hold the washers temporarily until you can thread the nuts.

In retrospect, I’d try to move the upper strut stud hinge plate (mounted on vertical truck bed frame) UPWARDS about an inch based on post installation quarterbacking/guessing. Works great as is and it would be too much work to relocate and not sure if the moving up would make (a little) better action?

Speaking of action: The gate falls its normal unassisted speed from vertical to about 2/3 down which, at that point, is when the designed assist strut action kicks in. Brings the last 1/3 of the gate fall opening to a very soft landing. Closing the gate is normal until the last 1-2” of latching where you can feel the strut give slight resistance as it resets the chamber. Doesn’t easily latch closed like before, but needs a slight push to fully engage the latch/lock points.

Lots of weighed forces on the tailgate falling action, so I added 2 more bolts with underlying fender washers (for 5 total) in the above picture. The washers are very important to distribute the weight forces better back up towards the mounting bracket.

Took about 2.5 hours on this first prototype. Could do it in less than an hour next time.

Total parts under $40

 

I brainstormed hard on this one last year. Your posting pics restarted the fire. I already knew it wasn’t feasible on the inside (between gate and bed) as designed from prior research. Finding those strut studs I posted is the key to this job. The Simpson strong tie angle is key as well. Figured I had all the homework complete and it was time to take the test.

Hope it helps everyone. Really is a nice ‘mod’.

 

That’s exactly where this one is. It’s very beat up, and 2wd, so it’s worthless in MN.

it just happens to have a rust free body and is also black like mine!

Dunno. Lots of looking and waiting on Craigslist and Facebook.

 

Got the first flare off and found....


NOTHING! NO RUST!










now, does anyone know how to remove a headlight? I can’t get it off for the life of me.

 

I a related question, anyone know a part number for those little clips for the flares. One is broken on my rear flare and pops off all the time.

 

Try these for starters.

 

Some new poly bushings for the rack

 

Hows the new steering feel?

 

Like a virgin

 

There are a few bolts to pull out, also look at the corner markers and remove any bolts there. You have to pull the corner marker straight forward and really he-man that thing out. Then the headlight can come out.

 

Looking forward to hearing how this goes. Once I get my garage sorted I'm planning to use that on my bed as well, I think I'll go with the olive green.

 

Yeah I was torn for weeks trying to decide color, trying to get one close to matching; it used to have a camper, so there are wear marks below the bed rail caps that I wanted to blend in nicely. I don’t think I can make it look good doing a color........BLACK it is!!! I will then paint the plastic bed rail caps with the same product to hopefully make a seamless transition.
Maybe 2 winters ago I did the rear plastic bumper on our 4runner, it’s held up great! I’ve even severely curled the plastic bumper coming off a big rock, the monstaliner just cracked where the plastic bent, hasn’t chipped or flaked off or anything. It also has texture, but it’s not rough when you go to clean it or wash it, the dogs nails don’t grip it all that well though when he hops in the back

 

Hard to top hand model today. He took something difficult and made it look almost easy. I took something fairly difficult and decided to make it harder because I like pain... Obviously!

 

gosh I'm tempted to do this myself at my buddies who has a welder. How much in materials...couple hundo?

 

That would require I actually think about the final cost of something. I like piecing it together and not adding it up. Here goes ..


Maybe $80 for 20' of 2" square tube
The 6-8' of 1.5" square was remnant so I have no idea
So far about $50 in 1/4" and 3/16" steel plate
The about 20' of 1.75" DOM is around $150
So maybe $300 with some bolts and drill bits and such. You could easily make them less expensive by using different materials, making them weld on, or being able to order with a good discount. My work doesn't do much quantity on steel so I got some better deals than what I posted, but not by a whole lot.

 

Who are you and what have you done with @Darkness

 

The only reason I wouldnt go black on bed liner is I've seen some where it looks too shiny and others where it looks sun faded right away. Olive green looks better when sun faded if anything. I might bed liner my roof black though soon, I'll see about it after I do the bed.

Today my truck passed smog. I was gonna pick up new floor mats to celebrate but didnt really like the ones I saw. I looked at generic weathertech ones but they arent as wide as I'd like. I looked at Michelin ones and they're about as wide as I want but have a really funky pattern. I'm going to just keep an eye out for now.

 

Speaking of bedliners, I have got to get mine out and see how things look. Been too many years since I have had it out and hoping the ARE Tonneau cover has helped.

 

Hopefully this takes care of the squeaking on cold mornings. The old one was in good shape but a cheap Bando belt brand.