What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I think shipping to St Bart on a models budget prob not an option

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Retired model. My residuals are drying up. Hahahaa

 

So uh this is a straight cab.

This is mine...


See the problem? We thought it was factory shaped like that... but as I’m
Finding out driving it, the cab seam is separating now.. this will be fun to fix.

 

I just figured they're likely less worn and more flexible than my 14 year old leafs but i really don't know.

 

Seam separation. The cause for concern

 

Just picked up the old girl from getting a new starter

 

Lets see that receipt! Heavy Duty?

 

Looks like Sylvania is jumping into the Off-Road LED market. They have LED Fogs now, as well. Not sure of their pricing, but this is good news from a competition standpoint. Lifetime warranties! I have their interior ZEVO LED bulbs in my cab and really like them.

https://www.sylvania-automotive.com/products/other-lighting/led-off-road/index.jsp

 

$585, used a Napa starter since I wasn’t paying $400 for a rebuilt one from Toyota. I can post a pic of the receipt tomorrow if you want haha. But it came with a 2 years parts and labor warranty, and it definitely sounds stronger starting now. Tomorrow will be a test supposed to be 18 tonight.

 

Construction adhesive or seam sealer and then some undercoat. Maybe some rivets and hammering and not exactly in that order. That's probably what I'd do.

 

I’m going to see if I can pull the thing straight with my enerpac from the floor pan. Seems to be where the damage took place
By the body mount

 

Nice. My one mechanic likes NAPA.

I’ve strongly considered this remanufactured starter which the stealerships offer. Or, you can buy a new one from online stores for about the same price.

 

The starter is going to suck when it eventually goes. Did you get any warning before it went out?

 

Do you have the heavy duty starter?

 

No clue. Is that on the OG window sticker?

What constitutes "heavy duty"?

 

Has anyone considered rebuilding the starters when they go? I have had many domestic truck starters go and after cleaning them up and installing new brushes they were good to go. And I never had any of the rebuilds fail after new brushes were installed. Of course these imports might be different but it should be just a slight variation in implementation of the basic construction. Just a thought.

 

It was on my window sticker and you should be able to pull it up on your VIN search.

Ironically, the HD is less expensive brand new compared to the lighter duty new.

Not sure what makes it HD other than more power (2 vs 1.4kw) juicing the mice.

 

I’ve considered ordering the kits and after research its only about $200 more to just order one rebuilt or new vs. pulling and rebuilding/operating. I believe IIRC there are about 3-4 parts other than brushes that should be replaced so with that I’d just go new instead. Plug and play!

I think @Rex Kramer rebuilt his starter?

 

Wasn't me, my 2002 is still using it's original starter.

 

Often times it pertains to the bearings or lack of, with the regular version possibly having a soft metal bushing for the rotating shaft to ride in and the HD version having a type of bearing, typically roller or needle bearings. Or so goes my limited experience with electric motors.

 

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1-4-kw-or-2-kw-starter.10284/

 

The contacts in mine were corroded so when there was moisture in the air for some reason it would catch for a second and then I would just get clicking randomly until the contacts made good connection again.

luckily it didn’t just flat out die on me.

 

I had a problem similar to yours last summer. It happened after I sprayed down my engine after degreasing it. Got overzealous on the rinse down. Truck worked fine that day, but the next morning the clicking set in. OMG!

Ended up being patient and giving a couple short bursts every couple minutes to start and eventually it fired up. Not a problem since then. I guess this is why Toyota buries the starter under the manifold like they do to keep it as far away from water (and dumb hand models) as possible.

 

Swapped over to the winter tires today and did an oil change while I was at it. Some of you may remember me posting awhile back about trying a Fumoto valve but not being able to thread it in properly and having to return it. This time, the valve I ordered went in. It was snug, but I got 'er in and there's no leaks. I'll be keep an eye on it, but I check my drain plug regularly for a week or two after an oil change. I also swapped The Woman's tires over on her Corrolla.

So yay for all that. As usual though, nothing goes perfectly. My dumb ass overtighted one of the bolts while replacing my skid plate and snapped the bolt off. Good thing no neighbour children were within in earshot when that happened. Of course it's one of the 2 bolts to the rear, and not one of the 3 at the front. I'll have to see if we have some Easy-Outs at work and try to remove and replace the broken stud.

 

Well they’re in, but I feel like I’m missing somewhere, I didn’t really bleed the fuel line once I was done, I just cycled the key to on a few times to get fuel pressure back up. It throws a flashing check engine while I’m driving as well. It’s idling a little low and rough, any pointers?

Edit: I talked to the yota guru of our 4runner page, clean the throttle body and then let it relearn(get a drive cycle in her) this was the first time disconnecting the battery on the tundra for me; my 05 taco would act like a dirty dog after the battery was disco for a while and would require me to find a freeway to drive on for 5-10 miles to get it to relearn and act normal. Our 2010 4runner just takes a quick shit on the first crank and the second time it runs like normal.
So tomorrow I will clean the TB, MAF and then take her on the open high way!!

 

Spent an hour fiddling with my power bleeder, the VW adapter seems to have bonded to the hose. I improvised and cut the brass fitting off the end and hose clamped it to my Toyota adapter.

Spent the next 30 minutes bleeding brakes. Got lots of bubbles out of the proportion valve and the front passenger caliper, other bleed points had a little burp but nothing excessive.

Cleaned up a bit and started it up. Let the idle calm down and pushed the brake, it has no resistance until almost the bottom. Tapped a fee times and same thing. Wondered if it just needs pedal adjustment, so I hit reverse just for a second and yup, I don't have brakes.

Got pissed off and came inside for water and pizza.

 

Often times being the qualifier in the statement, above, and indicates this may not be the sole reason. It goes to reason that if there are other stated differences, such as electrical output, that this may be the reason, or one of the reasons, why one is HD and the other isn't.

 

Ugh! Hate when things go to crap. Not sure how to help in either of your guys situations, but if I could I would.

 

I just put that link up for grins. Not having both (starters) side by side its difficult to judge on the build aspect, but clearly from the parts ordering side there is a distinct notation on the KW... 1.4 vs. 2KW thus making that the most important aspect I’d guess.

Makes sense that a higher powered starter might last longer as it has to work less each start cycle, especially in colder climes.