New to me 1st Gen Tundra - What to look for/change out due to mileage/age

I recently scored (or at least I think I did) on a 2000 Tundra Limited 4x4 4.7L. It popped up on FB Marketplace and I jumped on it. It has a 171K on it, brand new all terrain tires, bed liner, all stock. Motor runs quiet, runs healthy and it passed emissions with flying colors. Trans shifts smooth and has no weird issues. 4x4 works great but the tcase sometimes makes a little clunk going in/out. The AC is ice cold, hot heater and the under carriage was bone dry with no visible leaks from anywhere. The interior is in great shape aside from a few stains that I will try and get out and the front seats appear to have had covers on their entire life. I picked it up for $2900.

It has a couple of issues but I am starting with the basics. I am doing an oil change, fuel filter, air filter, front pads/rotors since they are warped, fuel injection cleaner, might clean the MAF sensor, full detail inside/out and whatever else I can think of while I am working on it. I think one of the front CV axles needs to replaced as I can hear some clicking when making a right turn. The door switch on the drivers side seems to be wonky because when I am driving it, the flickers off/on unless I put pressure on it? I remember my '95.5 Tacoma doing the same thing.

Anyways, what else would you guys suggest going through? No idea when the timing belt was replaced last or any other maintenance. The previous owner said he just changed the oil but for piece of mind, I am going to change it again. I will add some pictures later today.

Parts ordered already:
Oil, fuel and air filter
Front pads and rotors
Headlights (one broken tab on drivers side and dull/yellowing)
Foglights (one is missing, the other is dull/yellow)
Key Fobs

 

Sounds like you got a great deal! Timing belt/ water pump service using the Aisin kit (big job for a DIYer), and OEM lower ball joints (easy job with some basic tools, but first check to see if the recall was done for your truck...you might get them for free). Other than that, standard age-related baseline (trans fluid, diffs, t-case, etc).

 

You stay far, far away from that fuel filter. It's pure evil and you WILL end up covered in gas. Have someone else do it. And the clicking isn't your CV axle unless you were turning in 4wd. Mine clunks when engaging 4wd while sitting, so we're either both good or both bad.

 

Oh, and did you get stock pads and rotors? A good upgrade for earlier 1st gens is to get the 13WL setup. New calipers, pads, and rotors. Be sure to replace your plugs and check your coils while they're out. And feel on the bottom of your valve covers for oil leaks, if so you can snug down the VC bolts until you replace the gaskets.

Also, we need pics.

 

Yep. Mine only makes noise going into 4WD at real low speeds or stopped. I'm guessing it's easier to switch into 4WD while moving?

@SouthPaw First, welcome to the forum! In addition to what you have listed I would do the following:

• drain and refill the transmission. This is a 30 minute job. It's that easy. You should get out around 4 qts but be sure to measure it and put in the same amount.
• drain and refill the front diff, transfer case, and rear diff. Do a search here if you are not sure what fluid to use. It's been beat to death. Also, your rear diff fluid will depend on you having a limited slip differential or not. Start with your owners manual if you have one.
• consider replacing your lower ball joints. They are prone to fail. Do not go aftermarket here. You'll want to go OEM on those. We have a member here that works for Toyota of Cool Springs. They seem to have the best prices on OEM parts and they offer a forum discount on shipping.
• as you mentioned, the timing belt and water pump probably need to be done unless you can verify it was done within 90K miles. If you enter the vin on Toyota's website it will show you any work ever done at a dealership. The Aisin kit is highly recommended.
• check your carrier bearing. This isn't as critical as the rest but it's a common replacement item.
• take a look at the radiator. If it's the original unit you may be on borrowed time. 19 years is a good run.

 

I will give the local stealership a call to see if there are any open recalls, good advice! I definitely know my limits and will probably pay to do the timing belt.

I don't mind getting some fuel on me. Wouldn't be the first or the last lol. At this one is an easy change style with no special tools unlike my '03 Tahoe Flex fuel which required a PITA fuel clip release tool that didn't work so well. Glad to know we both have clunkers.. . I'll definitely be doing a thorough check out once I have it up in the air but it isn't in 4WD when it makes that popping/clicking noise though. Maybe a loose ball joint..

Finally posted in the OP.

That is correct. Only at slow speeds it seems to be noisey.

Now that I know it has a drain plug, I will def be doing the trans fluid as well when it's on the rack. I'll do the diffs and T-case as well, sound advice; thank you. I'll give it a good shakedown while it's up in the air for any loose suspension/steering parts but everything seems to feel pretty tight.

I was a bit worried because it was a rat race to get this thing given the price. I was the first one to respond so the guy gave me the courtesy of holding it till I could get there the next day. It almost seemed to good to be true but everything that I could see, I was making out like a bandit. I had to buy it now as other people were starting to call him and offer him more than his asking price so I rolled the dice. I think I get all these services done, a good wash, detail, it will turn out to be pretty good.

 

From my brief google-fu, it looks like

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 is good for the front diff, t case and rear diff?

 

Yes, yes, no. Like I said before. It depends on if you have a LSD in the rear. If you do, 80W-90 and you may have to add the friction modifier depending on what brand fluid you buy.

 

White paint has been found to be defective. Symptoms include, but are not limited to, being a little sluggish on acceleration. The cure is to paint it black.

Nice truck, welcome.

 

Ah come one... Grey is the fastest color! Well at least mine looks fast sitting in the shop right now haha.

Welcome op! Sometimes I wish mine was white.

 

Welcome from Colorado. It's great to see the excellent responses here from our 1st gen owners

 

Well I did a couple of power brakes and she’s still got it.. but it looks like a one tire fire. Is there a better way to determine if it’s has LSD? And not the kind your grandpa (or you) did in the 80’s.

Thank you! Every other vehicle I own is black so if given the choice, it would be. Duramax is black, Harley is black, Tahoe is black, old ladies car is black. I guess you could say I like it dark.

I’m very pleased with the responses and welcomes I’ve received here. I’m a big believe in forums and I love a very active forum, especially for such an old truck! I do love living in Colorado and expect the truck to perform well during the winter. If the rumors are true about the farmers almanac, it will be put to the test!


I did get the detail done tonight and it cleaned up well! I took the seat covers off and was shocked. I believe these seat covers have been on since day one. Once I peeled them off, the original leather was in amazing shape! I only snapped one pic but for being almost twenty years old, they are in great shape.

 

That's a great price. I have an 03 Sequoia with a 4.7. I've been trying to give myself a reason to trade it in for a new one for years, that thing is unstoppable.

 

Lucky!

 

Welcome from NY.
Great looking 1st Generation.

 

Welcome from East Tennessee. Great deal on a great truck! I have a 2000 tundra TRD limited with 381,000 miles that is my work truck.Still runs and looks great.You have a lot of miles left on that truck!

 

Oh, and get a bunch of good grease and hit ALL of the zerks and *especially* the rear slip yoke on the driveshafts. The rear slip yoke will probably take a LOT more grease than you expect. It will help keep the common "clunk" when stopping/accelerating from a stop these have.

 

"the vin on Toyota's website it will show you any work ever done at a dealership." I've entered the vin number and find a lot of information except for work at a dealership. I know the previous owner had some work done at the dealership. Could you please help me???

 

That's unusual. Maybe that truck never even saw the dealership for a single oil change. When you click under service history it doesn't show anything? Here is what mine looks like.

 

There may be a sticker on the rear diff. If not, you can put the vin in at Toyota's website and look at the original window sticker for that vehicle. It will tell you if it came with an LSD.

 

Nice truck and sweet deal! Congrats!

 

Yeah, but silver has been proven to slip through the wind easier, gets better mileage, and goes faster. Come on guys, everybody knows this. Enjoy the new ride SouthPaw.

 

http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7560/kw/service history

Why is my service history from past years not shown on Toyota Owners?
For most dealerships, records go back to early 2005. However, in certain areas, we did not begin storing dealership repair order information until late 2007. These areas include North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas, Oklahoma and Texas. Some dealerships may not participate, and occasionally records are not transferred. In these instances, please contact your Toyota dealership and request to have your records printed.

 

Great Trucks 1st Gen. Just sold my 2003 w V6 with 177,000. Had the truck for a long time it was my work truck and my daily commuter. These 1st Gen's went thru front rotors and pad fairly quick, invest in a good after market set. Only one major repair was the tranny about 8 month back, other than that GREAT TRUCKS!
Enjoy...

 

NIce truck! My 4wd makes that clunk when engaging as well, maybe its just they way they work

 

She's a BEAUTY ! I'm told Red is the fastest color on the water if you're sporting a red surfboard. I suspect the same is true if you're driving a red vehicle on the road.


Here's "Goldie" . . .

 

Not true, the weight of metal flake holds you back

 

Well the deed is done.....mostly. Got all the services done minus the fuel filter and front diff. I’m glad I went through it because this truck has been sitting for awhile. I found wasp nests, spider webs, leaves, branches, etc from it sitting. I also noticed the previous owner had the bright idea to not put an air filter in it. That’s right, it had NO AIR FILTER! He also had the wrong battery in it from a tiny little car that decided to die so that got replaced as well with the correct one.

All the fluids drained were clean and looked really good surprisingly. The front diff drain plug was semi rounded so we opted to leave it alone given the t case, rear diff and trans fluid looked great. It appeared the fluids were changed pretty recently so I’m not too worried about the front diff. The fuel filter didn’t get done because we simply forgot it lol. I’ll get that done next week.

We got a few other things taken care of while we were there but I did notice the passenger rear wheel cylinder is leaking and making a mess. Guess it will get new drums, shoes and wheel cylinders next weekend.

I do have a few questions. Intermittently, it will fire up like normal and die. I’ll restart it, it will die and I’ll have to throttle it a few times and then it idles fine? I’ve read maybe a MAF sensor? Also, how far back does the rusted frame warranty go? This one doesn’t appear to affected but I’m just curious on the parameters around it on what they consider warranty. Overall, I have no big complaints. It’s been running great aside from the dying issue and I still think it was a great buy. I enjoy these projects and can’t wait to keep bringing it back to life.

 

If it didn't have an air filter then I'd really be thinking about cleaning the whole intake tube and throttle body. That could help with the issues you've been having possibly.