Idatalink Maestro Info

You matched up the plug colors from the harness to the connectors on the module?

 

Yes but I think I have the black one in the wrong slot. I get 2 flashing red lights on the device.

When I spoke idatalink they said it could be 1 of 2 things:

1. The serial number was incorrect from the receiver.
2. The harnesses were plugged in incorrectly.

 

If I recall correctly I plugged the main harness with the black connector into the side that has the power connection and the idatalink connection. Mine also blinked red 2 times till the head unit was fully booted up.

 

Here’s the only photo I took while testing everything before putting everything in place. You can see the mmr on the left side

 

@pschiller86 ... I am waiting on a couple of cables to complete my install. On my testing, I had issues with flashing red light and no steering controls, rolled back to factory for the time being. I came across this on http://www.12voltdata.com/viewtopic.php?t=13246. I had the idatalink plugged into the wrong side of the maestro. Make sure its plugged in next to the USB port that you programmed it with, per details below.

 

Thank you sir.

 

So, I have a 2017 CM. I bought it all through Crutchfield because the HU was on sale. I maintained steering wheel controls and backup camera. You need the Maestro, other Maestro adapters for GPS antenna, USB/Aux connection, and satellite. These adapters connect to the factory connections. Then, the wiring harness. I payed for Crutchfield to build the wiring harness too. The TPS monitoring and other gauges are fed from the ODBII connector that comes with it too. You can configure others as well. If you spec it on Crutchfield, they will show you everything you need. Then, if you have any install issues, they help over the phone and have an app to look through your smartphone and camera to view what you are viewing. Hope that helps. The issues I already outlined in this thread were with the maestro flashing red lights due to the data cable being on the wrong slot. In addition, because its not documented, the factory JBL amp gets the sound from two RCA cables that have to be connected across ... Other than that, Its been about a week since I finished it. Sounds so much better than the factory HU. If anyone is in the market, I have the factory unit available.

 

Is anyone able to change radio presets via the steering wheel controls with their Maestro? If yes, which option is it when programming the steering wheel controls? I was only able to choose Seek+ or Seek- when programming the steering wheel, so I have to manually select the radio preset from the HU itself.

 

I just installed a Kenwood DDX9906XR in my new truck (w/ JBL amp) complete with the proper harness (wired by Crutchfield) and the Maestro unit. I'm finding that, utilizing the JBL amp with the Kenwood HU, the low end is extremely weak to nonexistent. In fact, I don't think the subwoofer is working at all. I messed around with the audio outs on the back of the Kenwood to no avail and reflashed the maestro - same results. Does anyone have any ideas? With a new HU, is it a problem to install a new amp? Thanks!

 

Subwoofer has an on/off setting in your headunit. Check that, make sure it's on.

 

Thanks, is that option separate from subwoofer level in the EQ screen?

 

Did you flash the maestro unit? Make sure that JBL amp is checked on the flash programming.

 

I did ... Reflashed as well to ensure it was done properly. I think there was a slider for retain factory amp.

 

Did you ever figure this out? I want to know the same thing.

 

No .. Can't figure it out. All I can say is that, for whatever reason, it's only reproducing part of the frequency spectrum (above 120hz maybe?). I don't know if it's a miscommunication with the maestro module or a power supply issue or a preamp out miscommunication. I'm a little disappointed because it sounds noticably worse than the stock system - of course those components were designed to work with each other. Anywho, bit the bullet on a 5 channel amp, new speakers, wiring, etc. I'm just going to redo the whole thing. Only downside (and I was assured it wasn't really a downside) is that the dash speakers will now be useless.

 

Oh sorry, just realized you were asking a different question.

 

Lots of people say once you add an amp and component speakers that you won't miss the dash speakers. I for one, had already paid for good dash speakers (infinity reference 3.5 corners and dual JL C1 tweeters with custom bracket in the center) so I wanted them to work just to get my money's worth. I wired the center channel speaker to my kenwood "front speakers" wire outputs and the corner speakers to the "rear speakers outs". They work and sound great. All my other speakers are powered by my JL amp. I ran speaker wire from the head unit directly to all the dash speakers, it wasn't too hard to snake the wires through the dash since it's such a short run.

 

Thanks, I really like that idea. How do you go about doing this? I'll have all 6 preamp outs running directly to the amp. Do you splice into the front and rear outs at the HU?

 

My kenwood is about 5 years old. It has 3 preamp (RCA) outputs but also has 2 sets speaker wire outputs (front and rear). I wired my dash speakers to the speaker outputs, and ran 2 sets of RCAs to my amp, which is only a 4 channel amp so I had to wire the amp to run all the door speakers on the front channels left and right, and bridged both the rear channels to run my subwoofer.
Does your headunit have speaker wire outputs? I hear that some newer units do not, and even if they do, once you connect to any of the RCA outputs that the head units internal amp shuts off and will not power speakers via the speaker wires. My head unit puts out 50w x 4 speaker level so it's enough for my dash speakers

 

Oh I gotcha, no I only have 6 RCA outs. I'll see how it sounds without dash speakers and go from there.

 

Ugh yeah that seems to be how lost of the stereos are now. Mine is old but works okay for me, some day I'll upgrade and have to figure out this same issue.

 

Actually I'm not sure, I know that several manufacturers ship their radios with the sub off, so that's the first thing I check when troubleshooting.

 

I've got a 2017 Sequoia Limited that had the JBL Premium HU and amp. I had the HU replaced with an Alpine ILX-F309 unit. The place that did it added aTO harness and the adapter for the USB port as well as the Maestro RR unit

I like the HU, except I'm getting a hiss from the speakers like the amp is turned all the way up. There are volume controls for several types of audio in the HU, however these don't help as much as I think they should. Music volume goes from 0 to something over 22. However, I can't turn up the volume more than a 6 as it's so loud. Is there something that wasn't installed correctly that allows the amp to adjust it's volume? Or am I stuck with this? Thanks!

 

I'm not an expert in the audio department but I think you need to turn the gain on your amp way down. I'm sure it could be one of several things but I'd start by turning the amp gain down.
On my JL amp I have the gains around 1/4 , I need to go lower cuz I still have some hiss

 

I agree. However, I was under the impression that the factory amp had no such knob. That's why I'm here. Is that a thing on the factory JBL amp? If so, where is the amp located? Thanks!

 

This was a shop that did this correct? If you are able to take it back, I would. If they did the install, they should fix whatever issue is cropping up now. IIRC there is no gain adjustment on the stock amplifier.

 

I don't have one, but this thread has several replies stating gain is adjusted through the Maestro.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/2018-jbl-premium-sound-upgrade.18423/page-5#post-565118

 

I'm sorry, I didnt realize you kept the stock amp. I was thinking you got an aftermarket amp.
There may be a way to adjust it via the maestro.

 

Thank you! I scheduled an appointment with the installer to have them look at this. I should definitely figure this out myself, but I don't have lots of time, unfortunately.

 

Just to follow up. I took the truck into the original installer. I told them that the audio in the truck sounded like the gain on the amp was turned up all the way. I told them I know that the iDataLink Maestro unit can be flashed to have the stock amp at any gain level. They said they always flash it at the same level for all Toyotas. Ok. They took a look at it. About 30 minutes later, they came back and said it was fixed. The issue was that the original installer used the "high lines" (Their verbiage. Obviously, the internally amplified speaker output) and plugged that into the stock amp as opposed to the "low lines" (Again, their verbiage. Obviously line level out). I got into the truck and messed around and sure enough, the issue was gone. So that's done. Now I just need to get the dashcam installed.