Shaking problems when I switched TRD Wheels

I had bought some 2014 Toyota Tundra TRD Wheels off of a guy (https://www.hubcaphaven.com/p/15293/aly75157b-toyota-tundra-trd-wheel-black-machined-426110c170.html), these are what they look like. I had new tires put on them and had them balanced, couldn't get them installed that same day because I didn't have the correct lug nuts so I end up ordering these (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2020-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) after doing some research. I put the tires and the lug nuts on and now the truck will shake when reaching 60 - 80mph, so I it to my local shop and had the alignment done and re-balance a couple tires they say it was off. Took it home the same day and it still shaking, so I left it over at the shop for the whole week. Guess what they saying? They saying it the wrong lug nuts installed and I like... Everyone told me to get these kinds. Now it is on my fricking nerves. I do not know what the 60MM offset means, does that mean I need a 60mm lug nuts? Basically the guy is saying that the wheels are not center with the current lug nuts that I got off of ebay.

 

Hopefully someone can comment. I got used set too. Wont put it on until next year.

 

This is the 1st time I hear that the lugs nuts is the culprit of steering wheel shake / vibration. I heard that the tires could be the issue - some tires are hard to balance.

The 60MM the tire technician was talking about is the offset of the wheels.

Here's a thread of a member that was having the same issue with Falken tires. Nothing wrong with the Falken tires, just lazy tire technicians that cant balance the wheels properly.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/falken-wildpeak-a-t3w-issues.49892/#post-1301843

 

Those lug nuts look fine... But maybe picking up some from Toyota direct is a good idea? Here's a thread about lug nuts for alloy wheels: https://www.tundras.com/threads/need-lug-nuts-for-2018-tundra-stock-rims.38735/

 

60mm offset is the wheel dimensions. You need flat lug nuts just like what you have. The lug nuts are not the problem here

 

Bummer, guess back to square one. I replaced the tires with the same brand and model that Toyota used in the past. Here they are: https://www.ebay.com/itm/P255-70R18...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

I remember that on 07-13 tundras they all typically had a shake, I’ve asked multiple people before if they get shakes around 60-80 as well but they typically had larger aftermarket wheels not sure if this helps it’s just a lil something I know from experience

 

Update: I got my truck back from the auto shop and decided to take the truck one mile down the road where there was a tire shop. I watched the new guy check the balance of the wheels/tires and would you know... It was still unbalanced, but we both noticed that the tires could also be bad because he mention that the top of the tires while it was spinning on the machine was moving too much (up and down) which I not sure if that normal on these machines or not, but he saying that the tires are bad/bubbling or something like that. But after he got the tires back on the truck and the first thing I did was too hit the highway and get it up to the speed, I didn't notice any shaking then. I will try it again and see if it changes.

 

Had a belt that was broke on a tire and you have never seen it.

Sometimes shit happens and its normally to me.

 

Sounds like he was saying one or more of the tires were out of round. This is possible and pretty common however, different manufacturers have different ideas as to what is OOR.
A road force balance will tell you exactly how far a tire is OOR.
Up to 30 lbs. of road force is okay on a big heavy truck tire.

 

So question is do I need to find someone that has road force balance machine and have them balance them or does that mean the tires are still bad? I will admit that it doesn't start shaking until you reach around 85-90mph now as before it would start around 55-70, so it does feel better now.

 

Am going threw the same problem with some brand new cooper at3 xlt. Had the steering wheel start to shake at 60 mph and up. The tire showed me the tire moving side to side on the balancing machine. Tires shouldnt give wobbles or vibration in the steering wheel just my opinion. The online store i bought it from are warrantying the tires.

 

If they’re riding good at normal speeds (less than 85) I would leave it alone.
Toyota trucks seem to be the hardest ones to get balanced properly regardless of the type of tire.

Mine doesn’t vibrate at all (even at 115) but, I balanced them myself and took probably 45 mins to road force/ ride match all 4.

 

I bought some Cooper ST Maxx tires from Discount Direct a few years ago and took them to my local tire store (Les Schwab Tire) that I'd been trusting since I was 15yrs old. They told me that Coopers were crap tires and that I should paid the $100 extra per tire to buy their Toyos.

I went to pick up the truck and they said one tire took way too much weight and the other three took way more than normal. I drove off and and as soon as I hit 55 mph, the truck started shaking violently.

Took it back and they said it was the tires. I called Discount and they apologized and agreed to send out a new set.

I took the new set to a different Les Schwab in another town and they said they would check the original set just for grins and discovered that the techs at the other store put the weights on the wrong area of the rim. They re-positioned them and the tires balanced perfectly. Was the best set of tires I've ever had.

My second set of tires were brought to the same Les Schwab that originally screwed up the Coopers and they ending up screwing up the next mount and balance. I stopped going to that particular tire store. Last I heard, they were now charging an extra $35 per tire to mount and balance new tires not purchased at their ridiculously overpriced store.

I would definitely get a second opinion.

 

Discount tire tells me the Tundra is by far the hardest to balance. I’ve had plenty of vibration issues that more or less have not been solved. Only reduced to a point I don’t want to sell my truck. They mention the the five lug design for being a problem and from what I’ve seen the redesign went back to six. I can’t seem to wrap my head around this since the wheel sits tightly on the hub which is taking the weight but someone smarter than me could help clear that part of it up.

I was sure it started when I went aftermarket wheels/tires but when I think back my Tundra had a slight vibration right off the lot. It only was magnified when I changed everything.

 

I find Les Schwab to be very high priced as well. The only thing I liked about my local store was the fact the guys in back weren’t still in high school like most Discount tire shops.

 

One of my stock tires never balanced properly. I finally just gave up and left it in the rear. Have you tried isolating which tire/wheel it is, then just leave it in the back?

-Jim