What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Was replaced in 2012, needed cleaning up and I sprayed some Noxudol 900 tar on some areas

 

That looks freaking sweet. Should you flip the hose clamps on the remotes though so you dont have to pull the bed if you need to remove them?

 

Thanks, Good call! The reservoirs can be mounted outside the frame rails as well, bed is going back on so I can work this horse

 

Got my new bumper on and fits/looks good, only hiccup was my dumbass twisting one of the braces into a pretzel, didn’t realize it was spinning til it was to late and I spun it good. Then figured I’d re-plasti dip my emblems and paint the plastic pads while I was at it, paint can sputtered, used a can of break cleaner to fix it then decided to use rattle can bed liner. It’s got a couple runs but it’s a truck, screw it. Looks good from 10 feet out.

 

Non-stop 5 hours of clay bar, polish, and wax today. She looks good.

Crawled under the chassis and loaded up PB Blaster in those ‘grease traps’ I concocted last year around the cross member to frame connections. Also, spayed some other frame areas including the transmission bolts in prep for pan drop and new screen install.

Good news: The Mobil1 5-30 Synthetic ‘High Mileage’ Formula seems to have cured my slight weep at the engine oil pan gasket. Just a reminder that the weep started last fall after a conversion from syn-blend from garage service for years to me taking over maintenance and going full syn. I used the Extended mileage Mobil 1 Synthetic for the first time and thats when the slight weep started. Moved on to regular Mobil1 full syn and the weep slowed.

The Mobil1 High Mileage Synthetic Formula looks to have done as it purports in just over 1k miles since the last oil change. Key word is ‘gasket modifiers’.

In celebration, I broke out the good stuff to dress the black truck trim. Its a bottle from 1996 As Seen on TV.

Formula 2001 space age!

 

Did you ever end up getting the Bakflip?

 

Soo. Who has any ideas how to open a driver side door that won’t open from
The inside or outside handle

 

Nope. I ended up with a Truxedo paired with a Thule TracRac SR. I still need to get quick fists mounted in the bed for my shovel and axe.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/05-backcountry-build.34723/

 

Pictures of truck!!

 

Ok. I’ll take her on a modeling shoot later during sunset. She still is lacking the side boxes which will be going on tomorrow as I need to fab up some new custom brackets due to me breaking one during removal.

 

Soo. Who has a

I’ll have to try that later. Funny I was using the truck all this week, get home, go back out to go get something and the doors stuck, fuck

 

My idea might not be doable as the door panel needs removal and that might be improbable with the seats being in the way.

 

Yea, door panel is an issue. There’s one screw I can’t get off due to the dash blocking it. Linkages all appear to be on from what I can see. I think the lock has broke internally... may be a bitch and a half

 

Since the fenders off I guess I’ll just take the damn hinges off and see if I can get the lock to come off... or if I can get into the thing and cut the striker. Hmm tricky

 

Time to pull the dash off again.

 

I think I need that in my life. I'm sure of it. I think I have a set of 12" foxes too...

 

That's cool.. going to have to check into that

 

Sunset over Fantasy Island.

 

yea i'll cut the door off before i do that.. the doors bent anyway.

 

that appears to be a bolt on crossmember. you make it yourself?

 

@Professional Hand Model truck looks a lot better without those tool boxes. What all do you keep in them? (Besides tools)

 

Not much actually. I used to carry my checkbook in the driver side box until I went 4 years without writing a check.

Had my tire repair plugs in the the pass side, but moved them under the pass side back underseat storage well which was still hermetically sealed from 2002.

Thanks, but I believe the boxes are going back on tomorrow. I’ll give Mz Hand the final say so before reinstall.

 

I know Prius (& several other Toyotii) electric locks go bad & the fix is to replace a little RC motor in the door. Sometimes folks reinstall a bit reversed (don't recall which bit) which results in latched door that won't unlock/open from in or from out. So sorta your situation. It's been about a year, so I'm vague on specifics - but it's on YouTube. Try searching Toyota door lock repair, I'm certain there was someone who found a way with the door closed & door card mounted.

 

Measured my leaf springs to see if they're compatible with the Archive Garage u bolt flip kit, 58mm so they might work. Looked under my truck and visualized what I would have to do if I go for that rear shock set up, looks like muffler and tailpipe need a rotation or just move the muffler forward and turn the pipe out the side by the door. Going to look for the Fox shocks I have in storage, I believe they are 12" but can't recall. They are 2" with reservoirs and I've had them for ages just sitting. @Archive you may have a sale by month end with no rush on delivery.

Hit the interior with the shop vac. Sprayed the floor mats down with the hose. I'd really like to get nicer mats up front with more coverage, considering Husky since I have a $40 Amazon card, that just about cuts the out of pocket cost in half. I've been rocking a pair of $9 wally world specials since 2009.

 

Or an old T4R

 

I hope you have a new axle ready

 

Here is one link to the locks. Maybe a tip in some of the follow ups.
https://priuschat.com/threads/fixed-door-lock-actuator-in-gen-ii-prius.113850/

 

Yeah, I feel for him on that one. I was thinking he likely can't do a drain and fill on that rear diff. Can't imagine those plugs will open. Rust sucks.

 

I thought the same when my pumpkin started to weep. I used an impact wrench & the plugs came right out with no issues. mine was a lot worse than this one before I addressed it. So far so good!