Alignment specs

Was trying to avoid that until I get the BOSS lift from Toytec, damn.

I wanted bigger tires anyway lol. Maybe I'll just run with this until they wear out and I'll put the trigger on the BOSS, UCAs and 35's all at the same time lol

 

Hey Jace, I was supposed to bring my truck in for the alignment and zero point calibration this Friday. But my boss needs me to work. Only been reminding him for three weeks. Oh well, that'll give me time to get the couchbuilder shims installed. Maybe some massaging to the fender liners to. I've got a little rubbing with the new tires, not exactly sure where. I ordered three shims, two for the drivers side and one for the passenger side to get a little more lift and get rid of the lean. Are there any issues that I should know about first? Is it bad to do two shims on one side and one on the other? Would just one on each be better and live with the lean? I've got bilstein 6112's on the top setting and stock ucas.

 

I rescheduled my appt. For Sat Dec 10th. Are you working that day?

 

Either rock I how it is and monitor tire wear outerm edge or buy ucas

What kind of shims are these? not familiar... for rear or front?

I'm off

 

I figured, dang it! Do you work any Saturdays? Or is there someone else there that can get it dialed in right? What about the shims, should I wait till I get ucas?

 

Yeah, I tried that. But my boss scewed it up for me. Can't count on getting time off during the week. I'll call again and ask if they have a say appt when he's going to be there.

 

I work every other Saturday.

 

Cool, I'll call on Monday and try to schedule it for the 17th.

 

Ok so its getting late, and I've had a bit to drink, but it doesn't look like they touched anything on this visit...

 

Sometimes you have to yell and use colorful language and throw expensive tools around to get a stuck truck into spec. I'm not so sure about the whispering...

 

Nope they didn't touch a thing... or, they didn't "save before measurements". older machines made u hit a button that did that. newer ones do it by themselves

 

Hey @LOTSOFTOYS.

I have a 3/1 lift on my 2019 Tundra. I have the following specs that we set my truck to. Can you please tell me what you think? The positive camber is freaking me out a little because I just put new tires on and don't want them wearing excessively.

Left:
Caster 1.4
Camber 0.0
Toe .13

Right:
Caster 1.3
Camber 0.1
Toe .13

Overall:
Toe .25
Steer ahead 0.0

 

I'm in the same boat with Firestone lifetime alignment to keep my new tires (275/70R18) wearing properly with stock suspension. How bad is mine?

 

I lifted this off another forum, but it worked for me.

STOCK TRUCKS:
Camber: +.1 degree camber on both sides.
Caster: As much as possible without sacrificing +.1 degree camber or causing a cross caster pull.
Toe: +.12 degrees per side for a total toe of +.24 degrees. (some guys have had to drop toe to +.04 to +.5 per side/+.08 to +.10 total toe)

LIFTED TRUCKS:
Same As Above ... BUT if you have wheels that have more negative offset than factory wheels, increase the camber to +.2 degrees. (or even +.3 degrees if they just can't get there with the amount of adjustment allowed by the eccentrics) Adjustable upper control arms are available for cases where there just isn't enough adjustment left in the eccentrics to get a decent alignment. Although they are expensive, most guys with lifts have a lot of $$$ invested in tires so you need to make a judgement call.

LOWERED TRUCKS:
Guys that lower trucks tend to want it to handle the road like a Lambo so I'll give two recommendations. One for improved handling and one for improved tire wear.
Emphasis On Handling:
Camber: 0 to -.1 degree (watch for inside tire wear)
Caster: As much as humanly possible. Caster causes the front tires to lean into the turn. Installing adjustable upper control arms to increase caster can really make it stick in turns. High positive caster can make it follow ruts/imperfections in the road and cause it to creep toward "full lock" after turning half way to the locks.
Toe: +.12 per side for a total toe of +.24 degrees.
Emphasis on tire wear:
Camber: 0 to +.1 degree.
Caster: As much as possible. It won't affect tire wear and we tend to have a hard time getting good caster unless we use drop spindles.
Toe: +.12 degrees for a total toe of +.24 degrees.

 

Does anyone know what can be done to get the Righ Front Caster to at least an acceptable range so my tires wear evenly. As I drove on the highway it looks like the steering wheels is tilted to the right a little for the truck to drive straight. They have it marked as MAX, was told it was maxed out on the caster side.

 

Can you guys chime in on my alignment specs that I recently had done? I’ve got about 2.5 inch lift up front on a 2001 tundra. It feels a little twitchy at speed and I’m thinking the caster needs to come up a bit. Any other input is greatly appreciated.

also curious why my rear left camber is high….bent axle? I did have new leaf springs installed as well.

The left rear tire is sticking out about an inch more the right rear tire by the way.

 

I am not familiar with the 01 tundra, but, I will say that if one of you rear tires stick out more than the other then that's a totally different issue. Solid rear axles have no alignment. The leaf pack sits in the bracket and the U-bolts hold it down. Could it be bent causing camber, I believe so, not and alignment tech. Right front caster could be closer to left side. Same with your caster, closer/equal. Why couldn't they get the toe equal?

 

How do these numbers look. 3" Boss lift SPC control arms.

 

Perfect.
Camber 0 +/- .1
Toe, .12 max

 

Numbers look great. But most importantly, how does it drive. Self righting and tracking straight make any vehicle more comfortable and safe to drive.

 

Thank you for looking and for the input. It's driving great. But what i really care about tue most is getting good wear on my new tires.

 

Shouldn’t have any issues. Camber and Toe are perfectly in line. Rotating every 5k will significantly increase the tire life as well.