Ask the Toyota mechanic!

That's weird cause my truck says mobil 1 0-20w as well

 

For the price of synthetic I just let the dealership do that it and enjoy my free coffee and browse the showroom floor lol

 

Thanks for taking the time to respond Jace, I will run the diagnostics you suggested. I was off roading and hit a pretty big hole and it seems to me this is when it started.

 

Yes, that is what the Toyota branded oil is. The problem comes when using the "advanced fuel economy" version that you can get in Walmart. I can't find regular Mobil 1 around here in any store so I just stop at the Toyota or Lexus dealership and pick it up there.

 

Knowing that... I might start at the tank

 

Hi Jace,

I have a 2005 Tundra 4.7 4x4. I have a question that hopefully you can help with.

Starting the truck cold and driving it for the first few minutes it feels as if the engine is really pushing the truck forward when no throttle is applied. I have to use a lot of brake force to keep the truck from moving forward. To give you an idea of how much it pushes on its own when cold - I can have the truck on my driveway which is a fairly steep hill (5 degrees, 10 percent grade) and the truck will push itself up the hill in drive, first, or reverse. Once the truck has been driven and is warm it no longer pushes. The trans shifts smooth and feels normal.

I went ahead and checked the trans fluid level. The level is good and the fluid looks fairly clean. The truck has done this "pushing" since I purchased it about 6 months ago. I originally thought it might be because the truck had a unichip installed and it that was messing with the timing or something, but I unistalled the unichip module and the truck is still doing it. The truck has a magna flow exhaust, but is otherwise stock.

Any ideas why the truck does this and how I can solve the issue?

Thanks,
Travis

 

What is the idle speed at when it does this? In P, R, and D.

 

When cold it idles at just under 1500 rpm in Park - when shifted to drive it drops to 1000. When warm it idles at 700 in P and drops to 600 in D. There are no dash lights and no codes on an scangauge.

 

Sounds normal to me.

 

Without seeing the vehicle, I would be inclined to inspect brakes and look for vacuum leaks. Your idle speeds seem normal and you are always going to idle higher with a cold engine.

Some vacuum leaks, such as intake gaskets, may go away after vehicle has warmed up. The early 2000s Corollas had this issue but was normally accompanied by a P0171 code.

Weak brake performance could be a contributing factor as well. Possible brake booster vacuum line or weak/leaking master cylinder. These symptoms may be reduced once idle speed has dropped.

 

I do not think it is simply a brake issue, but I can look into that. If it is a vacuum leak wouldn't the brake pedal drop after shutting the ignition off after starting the truck cold?

It seems crazy that it would be normal for it to move uphill on a 10 percent grade without extra throttle applied. I was reminded yesterday when I left work that when the road is snow/icy the truck will actually spin the rear wheels (in 2wd) as you let off the brakes without even touching the gas. At least I know the brakes are working as they should with more bias towards the front. I have 34x10.5 KO2s on the truck so it is not like it is just spinning little slicks. I owned an 02 Tundra previously and it did not do this.

When I purchased the truck last spring it had a cold air intake, unichip, and magnaflow dual exhaust. I thought the unichip might be causing the pushing issue so I decided to remove it along with the cold air intake (which was loud). I have only reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for a long period of time. Is there another way to clear the trucks computer in case the previous unichip install is still messing with the ECM somehow?

Just so you guys know. I am not a noob. I rebuilt a 79 pickup including the entire engine and suspension complete with highsteer. I also did a 3.4 swap on an 88 pickup and did everything including the wiring myself.

 

I don't doubt your ability. I'm just stating where I would start. There are 120 Toyota TSBs for the '05 Tundra and none of them relate to this, that I can see. If you had a Toyota Techstream, it is possible you could reset the fuel trim and learned values. Depends on Year/Model. I am unsure on an '05. I'll have to check the idle speeds on my '02 on my lunch break. Currently my truck is all factory. Have you cleaned the throttle body?

 

I have a question on wire harness for power folding mirrors. Is the wiring the same for a 2013 to 2016 at modular connections. If not is there a wiring harness that can be replaced from mirror to dash plug in. Im thinking about installing on a tss sr5 4x4. If possible could one get that section of wiring diagram

 

They appear to be quite different. Which model/year mirrors are you installing on which model/year truck?

 

I appreciate you looking into it for me. I just wanted you to know that I might have enough knowledge to do the recommended diagnostic troubleshooting. I did clean the throttle body when I removed the Airaid intake and throttle spacer that was on the truck.

 

Im the one asking about the mirrors. I had a plan to buy power mirror switch with fold button and the find a diagram to run the two wires that would be needed to open and close mirrors to the doors

 

It looks like the 2016 is much more complex than the 2013. Based on the diagram it looks like the Switch talks to the Main Body ECU which talks to the Outer Mirror Control ECU. I'm not sure that its a simple matter of a switch and a couple wires to make it work.

 

Thanks for the help thats what i wasnt sure of. Now that i know im just going to go with trailer mirrors that dont fold. Again thanks for the help

 

hi, what brand shock absorbers do you recommend for 2013 tundra and 2008 land cruiser prado ?

thanks

 

Bilstein

 

@LOTSOFTOYS

Cold start problems....2013 5.7 CM 4x4 Sr5.

when cold it cranks and cranks before it starts. I know its likely the Fuel density reading in the computer. Is there a final fix for it? I know the TSB I saw said take it to Toyota and they will reflash the computer. That was an old TSB. Some guys were saying that the problem reoccurs, any final fix on it?

Does the dealer charge for every time you have the problem? or is it common enough that they are doing it under good faith?

If I have to pay every time I may just buy techscan and reset the density reading myself......

 

I have a question, I'm not sure if you've answered this so bear with me,

I just bought a 2008 tundra 5.7 are these known to have any head gasket issues or anything else.

I came to find out my old 2005 Tacoma was prone to head gasket failures. And can't seem to find any info if these are prone to problems.

Thank you sir

 

I haven't read anything...

 

@LOTSOFTOYS 2014 sr5 5.7 flex
Seems like after shifting from reverse to drive the transmission kinda lags a bit till it actually engages completely to drive. (More so when the truck is cold and has been sitting)Is this normal with Toyota trucks? my prerunner would kinda do this too. Thank you for time.

 

Sorry everyone... been busy, buying our firat house

I have yet to do the fix and have the same truck come back...

No, timing covery leaks tho

haven't had that concern....

 

This winter season I noticed that it takes for ever for my truck to blow warm air, warm air not hot. What could be the problem as we are just getting in to the winter season and I don't want to freeze driving around.

 

Coolant level good?

 

@LOTSOFTOYS

thanks for the reply. I took it in yesterday and just asked about it. Service writer said that it was covered up to 80k/96months. not sure why but i was happy. I picked it up last night. Ill know here in a couple of hours if its fixed.

 

Any updates? Just curious if they found anything wrong.

 

Yes, i knew the problem going in. As soon as i started talking to the service writer, he knew right away too. The problem is on a flex motor, sometimes the alcohol density reading is off. There is a sensor that reads the alcohol density of fuel to tell the truck if its running flex fuel or if its running regular unleaded. With flex fuel, it needs more to run, more to start. So when your running flex fuel it dumps extra fuel to the motor.

Here's the problem: if your alcohol density reading is off (too high) the truck thinks its full of E85 and dumps more fuel to the motor. When the motor is cold it causes an extended crank problem. In temps below 50 degrees my truck would crank for an extended time.... Tip the starter, it would crank for one cycle, tip it again and it would crank and barely start on the last cycle. A cough and. A grunt later the truck ran fine. It only happened in temps less than 50 degrees.

Toyota has a Technical Service Bulliten that covered my truck for 80K miles or 96 months. They do something with the computer (reflash or calibration or something) pull the battery cables for 30 min, add 3 gallons of fuel and recheck it.

They completed the service yesterday and i just started it in 43 degrees and it fired right up with out a hitch.

I hope i explained it well enough... I probably messed up some of the technical jargon but @LOTSOFTOYS can correct me where ive messed up. I dont want to give incorrect information..

This is only a common issue on flex fuel motors.... non flex extended crank cycles will be some other cause.