What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Those are KMC Enduro wheels. Not sure what size Darkness has. Mine are 16x8 and they fit fine.
Disregard the TRD center cap, it doesn't fit

 

I bet this was fun and once considered doing this but nothings broken so it will be left alone. Stoked your overdrive is back up!

What did you use to clean everything?

Did you drop the ‘screen’ filter and clean it?

Did you snug any of the bolts on the valve body while it was open?

You see much gunk/debris?

 

Believe his are the same size. Tires are 285/75r16. And he doesn’t believe in spacers to the best of my knowledge.

 

I used brake cleaner on everything. I pulled the screen and all the solenoids off to clean them separately. I didn’t snug any bolts because everything seemed good and tight that I removed. It was really pretty clean inside here’s the inside of the pan before I cleaned it .

 

It's already a 2.5"/1.5" lift. Wasnt panning to go higher

 

3" body lift would do trick. Plus it gives you some space to work under and around the truck.

 

I don’t think I could handle not having overdrive. I need to get on some maintenance since I didn’t get any records with my truck.

Always loved these wheels. Good choice.

 

I'd go the minimal BL. Maybe 1-1.5 inch if I can find one

 

Thanx. A local TW members was offering em up cheep after he got scs 17s. Same route I'll eventually take. Or Level 8 or FN. I just want to be able to use my TRD center caps

 

Fuze’em in!

 

How do you mean? I'm mostly concerned about the fronts, because the black plastic dust cap sticks out a little too far for em to sit flush. Then there's the fact the bore of my wheels is 2mm larger than the diameter of the TRD center caps.

 

I think his are actually 17x8.5 which is what I kinda wish I had.
If not his, then the guy with the same wheels as us but chrome, might be who's I'm thinking of.

 

Put a couple dabs of Fuze caulk by Liquid Nails on the inside rim to hold the caps in place.

 

Went to the wash today with my youngest daughter, she did a really good job of helping me clean out my 18 yr sons mess from my truck.

 

Removed mud flaps and front bumper. I think a sludge hammer will give me adequate spacing for this tire size to work but if not, a good friend of mine is a great fabricator that can cut/weld me up. I may go that route but will talk to him first as I know suspension will flex so I need to take that into consideration.

Driver side:


Passenger Side:

 

Looks like you are in for some cutting. It's not as bad as everyone says. I cut and tacked mine back together and then did construction adhesive in a couple hours. It was stinky tacking around the factory seam sealer but it wasn't terrible. The cutting is never my favorite part because I hate getting metal dust in my hair and face, but oh well.

Just make sure you seal it up really well haha. I used construction adhesive and it seems to have worked just fine. Mine still rubs every once in a while though. No matter, distance from the frame will surely help with that.


What did I do to my Tundra today? Just sold some stuff and in the next day or so I'm ordering my extended front axle shafts. I also just ordered heims and uniballs for one side of the front suspension. I'll order the other side in a week or so, but I can still play around with suspension geometry on one side. Oh and I got my upper uniball adapters and ordered round stock to replace my lower ball joint with a uniball. Excited for new suspension! Build thread to come as soon as I have something to show haha.

 

thank you! what's the offset on those? love the center cap

 

Too bad the center cap is 106mm and the wheel hub bore is 108mm. Plus the plastic dust cap on the front hubs won't let the center caps sit flush.

 

Busy day. Sold my old wheels and tires on Facebook in less than an hour.

Finally dipped my rear bumper.

Did a transmission drain and fill on my wife's car.





In between coats I checked each ignition coil.
6 looked great but 2 are burnt. Not sure the #s. Both are 3rd from the front on each side.

I wish I knew if these have ever been replaced.



The rest all looked like this.

 

Trim some off the backside for a flush fit. Jerry did his this way. Make it happen!!!

 

Got some 285s on stock wheels (will need wheel spacers to avoid rubbing on a arms). Then I did the steering shaft seal. No more fake exhaust leak noise!

 

You may consider a high dollar alignment to correct your rubbing coupled with grinding a slight amount off the arm nub to give you another 1/4” of space between tire and arm protuberance (an Office joke).

 

What exactly did you do to this steering shaft seal?

 

Ditto. I'm curious about this as well.

 

@FirstGenVol @Professional Hand Model

Woops... I forgot to take a pic of the actual seal/boot. The one that acts as the seal @ the firewall for the steering shaft. (not pictured in my post). You can see the remnants of the old one on the steering coupler.

If grinding A-arm, would I need to weld in a plate? I might try that. It's not really that bad. I'm worried now a 1.25" spacer will move the rubbing to the fenders....

 

Post a part # of your seal.

The arm grinding: I only mentioned because someone grinded mine in the past or maybe even with my recent suspension work done at a shop. I didn’t notice until recently that one side had some grind marks (done by grinder for sure). The other side looks normal. Only about 1/4” looks removed.

I’m leery of spacers and try to keep it all OEM dynamics for the most part. I’ve posted pics of my ‘16 years of inner frame rub’ as I’ve been on this size tire since 2003. Its barely a rub mark. They’re Michelins and they seem smaller due to lack of sidewall nobbies.

 

Stock wheels keep everything the same but even different size tires change kpi and leverage. As far as geometry is concerned 4.5" backspacing on the same width wheel as one with with 5.5" backspacing and 1" spacers it's the same. Obvious with spacers you have an extra set of lugs and possible issues with that or hub centric issues.

 

@Professional Hand Model and @because_v8 are correct.

16x8, no spacer. I run 13WL calipers (2004-2006 used them) and they clear fine.

 

thank you!

 

I thought you guys found a way to make it work with Scangauge? I bookmarked this page for when I eventually get one myself.

Post 4880
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