What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

If you're willing Timken and SKF are both very good alternatives for half the price. Koyo is who produces them for Toyota but the part number is a little harder to track down.

 

You would have to ask Icon, but I assume they can't handle the droop. If you lift by block you have the same amount of travel, but slightly more extension (with less compression). If you lift by AAL or full leaf packs you get more travel in addition to the more extension (with about the same compression as stock).

That's the reason I left 5100s on the back of my truck. My full Alcan pack has the a bit less compression than stock because I retained stock bump stops but have a thicker leaf pack. However my leaf springs can extend 3" further than my 5100s can, and those are meant to handle 1" of lift by block.

Unless you drive violently enough to jump your truck, this isn't too bad. It just isn't optimal for your shock to be the limiting factor of your suspension.

Edit: looks like Icon and Wheelers no longer have the disclaimer about blocks only. Maybe the design changed, hopefully.

Some of the other ones still mention it.

 

Can I fit 33/75/16s without altering suspension or body. I'm thinking about buying these for 300 what you guys think ... Anyone else want them

 

But it shouldn’t matter if you have bump stops right? Isn’t the bump stop supposed to stop the suspension from overcompressing and ruining the shocks?


I’d also think that shocks designed to hand stock height to 3” of lift wouldn’t care since the compressed length of the shock is the same as OEM at that point, so the bump stops should do their job and prevent damage.

 

Turns out my non LSD rear end, is an LSD rear end.

But....
I think I have to face facts.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/time-to-give-up-on-my-1st-gen.45965/

 

On compression it's no problem, on extension is where it could get bad. Looks like they removed the disclaimer so might be fine.

 

To late

 

Eh I can go aftermarket but it’s just easier for me since I work at Toyota. The bearing is like 70 bucks. The rest of the cost is the seals and stuff

 

Just installed these tonight hehehe picked em up for 70

 

That makes it easier lol

 

I’ve been recommended to National Bearings by my mechanic. Seems those run about $65 per bearing also (not including all the other stuff). If you can get Koyo for $65 thats good!

 

Well my
Tundra now has power and heated mirrors.

Trying to figure out what I have to do to make the power windows work. I have the relay plugged into the back of the inside fuse box and still nothing. Probably something with the integration relay

 

It rained a lot this weekend....

We put them STT Pros to work!

 

Am on the same project. However, it has taken the better port or 2 days just to change out the passenger side. I tried heat, pb blaster, etch. Finally had to cut the top bolt off. Not looking forward to the driver side. There is even less room to get at the top shock bolt.

 

Why is everyone having so much trouble?

I was up in the hills, hit some potholes and mine completely popped off. Had to tighten a box end wrench on as a washer with the origonal nut to get home

 

Those rear shocks can be a pain to get off.

 

love the new profile pic btw.
My sway bar is currently sitting in the corner of my shop

 

Mine has been hanging in storage since 2010.

 

I'd like to remove mine some day

 

Try using Kroil to loosen everything up. Aside from that a box end swivel wrench works wonders for the install.

 

If you have access to one someone on another site suggested a nut splitter.

Fortunately both of mine just snapped off.

 

Sway bar haters! I went from a dangling sway bar and then back to having one, which I liked it so much and added a second one on the rear.

Street driving without the sway bar(s) feels sloppy. Offroad I can understand its great without one.

 

ICON is saying the short spacer goes towards the back of the truck. Typo?

 

The picture shows the way it’s installed in my Tacoma.. it’s a misalignment spacer..

 

If they say that for 4wd I would do it. For my truck it worked better the other way, but I run Fox and 2wd.

 

It's exiting on road, gives you a lil adrenaline when it feels like ur gonna understeer into oncoming cars. Plus for some reason it seems like it doesn't unexpectedly kick the rear end out when its wet as much

 

well got my overhead console wired up.. going to have a new autodimming mirror with compass too after tomorrow.

still no power windows.. pretty sure its that the fuse box is different.. everything lights up and i get power to the switch.. but the power relay will not click.. think its internal wiring to the integration relay

 

Got my driver's seat re-upholstered today.