Sound matting worth it?

Nice man! Yours is blue right?

 

Yes sir. Blue ribbon metallic

 

got my new HU coming soon too been a long project to get everything done.

 

@Pudge did you happen to post how many square feet of MLV and CCF you used?

 

I'm not exactly sure but i can check my ebay account. I think about 100sq ft of each. I had to order twice I do know that.

 

Wanted to thank you guys for the pics, helps as I'm planning things out.

 

Did that come in at around $300? And was it any of the stuff in the picture below?

 

I think I spent less than that by shopping around maybe closer to 200ish total. I ended up doing 2 separate orders cuz I didnt get enough the first time. The MLV is the expensive part obviously, you want the 1lb/ft MLV and 1/8" CCF is good.

 

Thanks @Pudge I may be pushing my lift back another month to knock this out. Maybe.

 

So @Pudge I've never done this the "right way" in using the layers. I've always used a product or straight up insulation and tap back in the old days. I've had a pretty good outcome every time.

Knowing what you know now, would you go with a single stage product again on a big job like our trucks or do you think you'd layer in again? For context, have you had a chance to ride in someone's Tundra that used a single product?

Thanks for all your posts in here, extremely helpful.

 

If I could do it again I would do it the same way with the layers. The mass is what keeps the noise down and other than lead sheets the only way to get that mass is MLV.
I have not been in a tundra with a single layer of deadening, just a stock tundra, so I may have done some serious overkill for all i know

 

I love overkill.

I actually used lead plenum sheets in my truck...

Lol

Not kidding

 

Looks great! How much material do I need to do the doors and back wall?

 

I just did the back wall on mine and it took 3 sheets of 18"x32".

 

I went 3 layers on the doors 1 layer 80 mil kilmat on the outside door skin 120mil mat66 on the inside with a layer of 394 mil uxcell foam ontop of that uxcell 394mil 16.36sqft Car Noise Sound Deadener Deadening Insulation Mat Waterproof and Moistureproof 60" x 40"

$34 uxcell 394mil 16.36sqft Car Noise Sound Deadener Deadening Insulation Mat Waterproof 60 x 40"es

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I4F0J76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xy34Cb1H30Q1Q
That stuf is a deal at 29$ for 2 doors worth
It was overkill but I love it

 

The sheets I used were 9.8x15.7 inch and it took me about a box and 1/4 of these to do all the doors and the back wall. I used the final 3/4 of a box on the floors.
Here's a link to the stuff I used on Amazon:

$75 KILMAT 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751CBXBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered a total of two boxes of this.

 

I did my doors and the back of the cab where the rear window unit is. I used Noico and the difference is night and day. The back of the cab is a huge rattle box waiting to happen if you are adding a sub, it is a must do. I did the inside and the outside layer.

Noico Black 80 Mil 36 Sq Ft Car Sound Deadening, Butyl Automotive Deadener Restoration mat and Noise dampening Insulation

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Deaden...r&qid=1558483270&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

 

Thanks, fellas! I bought the silver Noico; 1 - 36 and 1 - 18 square ft. quantities.

 

Finally got a solid block of time to get my front floors, tranny tunnel, and firewall sealed up with lead!


Remove all the wires and sensors




Laying the lead




Ready to go.




Driver's side getting quiet.




The wall of lead!




Going under everything is the most time consuming, tedious, pain in the ass, ocd only, if you're an audiophile you understand, and most expensive way to do this. But it is the most effective barrier for road to cab sound improvement. These three sheets took 10 hours to complete. From carpet to completely naked. Then fully lay the lead, then poke all fastener and bolt holes. Then reassemble and check all fitment points.


I used 9 sheets total in the truck.
The whole front is done with two full uncut sheets of lead, then I put a top piece all the way up the top of the tunnel that overlaps the sides. The fire wall is another full sheet cut in half to do both sides, and one sheet for small fit points I and around the corners. Sheets are 36"x49" so they are big and heavy~15lbs each.
I did 4+ sheets for the back wall and floors all the way up to the fronts. The fronts overlaps the back pieces. so, from high up on the firewall, at full width, all the way up to the rear window, is a lead barrier... silent bliss.

Here's a link to the lead!

Cascade VB-3 Acoustic Barrier Pad 12 sq. ft.

https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-VB-3-Acoustic-Barrier-Pad/dp/B000PPU2UI

 

Knocked out the sound deadening this weekend, and it is a simple, but tedious job. Thanks all here for the good info! I have a 1-1/2 sheets left, out of my 36sf and 18sf order, and used almost 2 rolls of the Noico tape. While a roller was handy, there are a lot of places it wouldn't fit, so I used the smoothing tools at the end of my arms. One thing I want to mention is that, when you are tearing off the plastic on the doors, a quick yank will pull almost all of the adhesive off at the same time. Use the plastic to remove any that didn't come off, by pressing the plastic over the adhesive, then giving it a quick yank.

Back wall, did the inside as well:



Passenger side rear door, showing the deadening that Toyota places during the truck build, (and not very well). Interestingly, these pieces were in the rear doors, but not in the front doors. I did this door first, before I discovered that yanking the plastic pulls the adhesive clear as well:



Just before slapping the driver's door back together. I decided to put my OEM Audio + system in at a later date; the deadening took up a lot of time, and I wanted to change just one thing at a time, to hear the effects of deadening by itself:



A quick thump check, halfway through. First and third taps are driver's door, no deadening. Second and fourth, passenger door, with deadening.

 

@Pudge Ive already added Dynamat Extreme in my doors and my back wall. With this already laid down, can I still put MLV and CCF over that? I think it shouldnt cause an issue but wanted to just make sure before I made the jump.

 

Well....whats your verdict? Makes a huge difference right?

 

I only drove it around the neighborhood, as I was pretty baked from being outside most of the weekend, but I'd have to say yes! Can't wait to install the OEM Audio+ stuff, in a couple of weeks. Thanks for your help!

 

Yes you can absolutely put down foam followed by MLV. Itll cut down on road noise and really make the truck more comfortable for long drives. I used spray adhesive to bond the CCF and MLV together but you don't have to glue them together.

 

@Pudge What did you do for your headliner? I was thinking of covering it with Killmat and then put on a layer of Dynaliner.

Also does anyone know where I can go buy some replacement plastic tabs that hold the doors and panels on? I broke a couple taking the door panels off and am sure I will break one or two when I drop the headliner this weekend. Id rather buy a large pack of them so I can replace as needed.

 

I actually have not done my roof yet but some day I will get to it. @1UPPER did a nice job on his roof.

The dealer has those tabs and they are really cheap but I have also seen them on Amazon. @Roman will know the part numbers

 

I did the dyna mat extreme on my roof and then dynaliner over that. It definitely makes the truck quieter and a lot cooler from the heat on the roof.

 

I did 80 mil all over the place. Doors,floor,roof ,behind the dash,

It made a big big difference. Totally worth it! Anyone thinking about at least do the doors you will be surprised

 

Any tips that you can give when doing the roof? How much dynaliner did you need?

 

Looking at taking the plunge as well, how much of the tape is needed? Assuming this is to keep all the seams nice and tight. Thanks for all the pictures and commentary loving all the OCD. Last time I seen led sheets was for sealing up an X-ray room, next level right there.