Diff fluids, transfer case fluid, plugs

A lot of the transfer case oils are closer to atf and are very low in viscosity. Be very careful. Most auto parts stores do carry TC oil but it's for American made Ford and Chevy possibly Jeep TC cases but please do not hold me to that description....its a much lighter oil.

 

We must use a 75w straight oil , non hypoid, preferably synthetic, my opinion gl-4 , is similar in viscosity to a 5w30 or 10w30 motor oil, fortified in the basic 3 to 4 ingredients that match Toyotas OEM at 60 a quart.
Summary is to buy 120 of Toyota if you choose.
Use similar Red Line at 20 and can verify synthetic and change more frequently for a feel better factor or heavy use.
Use Ravenel synthetic at a lower fortified package yet unless your rock crawling is good stuff.

 

What about fill/drain plug torq specs for the diffs/xfer case? I didn’t find numbers for xfer case. Diffs, I found 36 ft lbs for both fill & drain. Saw some threads that said other specs for diffs, too. So I’m questioning if 36 is correct. I’ll be changing fluids for first time this week.
I’d be nice if Toyota published a chart for torq specs.

 

This is from another forum, but: https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/t...ifferential-drain-fill-plug-torque-specs.html

 

I changed my rear differential fluid in my 13 crewmax and I have always used Royal purple. Its full synthetic and has limited slip differential additive already in it.I use that in my 2000 limited trd and also use the Royal purple transmission fluid for the trans,transfer case and power steering fluid. Dexron ll. I would use the Toyota brand for the 2nd and 3rd gen trans and transfer case. I have 375,000 miles on my 2000 tundra and it still runs great. I use synthetic on everything I can.I just replaced a front brake caliper on my 2000 so I flushed the brake system and refilled with synthetic brake fluid and bled the entire system.It doesn't matter how good they run,if it won't stop then it's a bad day!

 

Thanks. Says it’s for a 2007 - think it’s accurate for 2014+?

 

For the guys that have changed the transfer case oil on the 2014+ tundra's did yours have 1/2 inch plugs instead of the 24 mm bolts.

 

Yup 14 - is a different transfer case. 1/2” pipe plugs

 

Yes , 1/2 plugs here with 3/8 inch socket to remove.

 

Seems like the transfercase is the only concern to watch. My 97 4runner takes the same viscosity fluids in the front and rear differential. So I doubt Toyota ever changed anything special in the newer trucks inside the differentials.

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/ft-2536-ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation.html

 

Could you post the Red Line VOA or point us to where we can find it?

 

Can someone assist me here. I had the file now and I can't find it on my computer. It was for Red Line Oil Mtl 50204 75w80 gear oil Voa and results were from Oil Analyzers. I've used google, bing, etc, multiple strings. I find Btanchors Toyota OEM voa and my Ravenol voa. Thanks.

 

Is this what you're trying to find: https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/MTL_GO_PROD_INFO.pdf ?

 

I couldn't find it either after searching. Was it posted here, or another site?

 

@acmesupply there's an old post on bobistheoilguy with a voa of red line mtl from 2006. It doesn't mention it being 75w80, but looks like the only MTL Red Line makes is 75w80. Analysis was done by Butcher Machinery.

 

Here's another one I did.

 

I’m getting ready to change transfer and diffs. Is this what you guys are using if you dont go with Toyota?

$27 RAVENOL J1C1003 MTF-3 SAE 75W Full Synthetic Gear Oil - 1 Liter for Manual Transmissions, Differentials & Transfer Cases

https://www.amazon.com/Ravenol-J1C1003-Manual-Transmission-Fluid/dp/B00QPCL7ZE

 

That's what most are using assuming they aren't using Toyota fluid and they're sticking with a a straight 75w. @acmesupply said he's using Red Line MTL 75w-80. Based on the the oil analyses that are floating around the internet for the Red Line, it has a better additive pack than the Ravenol, and maybe even the Toyota. I'd like to see a more up to date analysis of the Red Line. @acmesupply, what does it cost for the voa?









This third analysis of Red Line MTL might be something different. It's listed as a 70w-80 instead of 75w-80, and the additive pack looks different from the two analyses above.

 

Its $29 and that includes free shipping. They need approximately 3oz. Results in 2-3 weeks.

 

I have found the Ravenol helped my shifting into annd out of 4x4 a lil smoother...so Im just gonna run with it...Redline 75w85 for front n rear diffs

 

Changed front and rear diffs and Tcase today. I bought magnetic drain plugs from goldplugs.com - I've lined out those model #s below. The OEM drain plugs have magnets, but they are not very strong. The ones from Gold Plugs are much stronger, but see the end comments for more info on that. And, just have to throw this in - always crack the fill plug first before cracking the drain plug

Also, I used Amsoil 75W-90 for the diffs, and Ravenol 75W for the Tcase. Used "
Differential and Transmission Drain Plug Crush Washers Gaskets for Toyota 4runner Tacoma Tundra FJ cruiser Land Cruiser, Replacement for the part# 12157-10010 90430-24003 90430-18008
" for washers, Amazon.

Here's a breakdown of findings for my particular truck:






REAR DIFF:
Gold Plugs # AP-05
Small amount of build-up. No shards.




Fairly dark oil:




FRONT DIFF:
Gold Plugs # AP-24
Small amount of build-up. No shards. Oil looks same as Rear.




TCASE:
The GoldPlugs site states model # AP-05 for this drain plug. However, this does NOT fit. See below for the plugs I had for fill and drain. I was able to take these out, and put back in, by just using the square head of a 3/8" socket driver. These bolts were not very tight, and were not leaking at all.



Fairly dark oil:




Since I wasn't able to use the drain from GoldPlugs, I still wanted a magnetic end. So, I went to True Value and bought this, https://www.truevalue.com/3-piece-neodymium-super-magnets:




It fit perfectly on the end of the drain plug (I didn't take a pic of the final product, but it works):



I cleaned the plug and magnet, scuffed them up a bit with sandpaper, and superglued the magnet to the drain plug. And, this may actually be a cheaper way to achieve magnetic drain plugs rather than buying the ones from GoldPlugs - those are about $20/piece. Knowing what I know now, that's what I would have done instead. Live and learn.

There's my experience performing these tasks on my truck. It may be slightly different for yours, but hopefully some good info. For video tutorials, I highly suggest the Youtube channel "Toyota Maintenance". This guy has some good stuff.

 

Good job. I did transfer case & both diffs this past weekend too. Found a decent size chunk of metal from rear diff’s plug. Think there’s any need for concern on that? Pic below.
I have to say, I’m not sure I’d trust super glue to keep that magnet in place, esp for something as important & expensive as a transfer case.

 

Great idea! These magnets will probably work well stuck on the outside of the plug as well. The magnet will magnetize the plug and the shavings will attach to the factory plug tip on the inside.

 

Appreciate it.

Yeah, that's a big piece. However, I'm not sure what you'd do besides taking the housing apart and doing a visual inspection. The only other recommendation I have is to maybe change the gear oil again in 5k miles or so and see what's there. If more, I'd say take'er apart. If no, probably good.

I appreciate the warning re: the magnets. I will tell you that these magnets are extremely strong. Like crazy strong. I can't see any circumstance where the magnet would come off. The superglue was more of a CYA than anything.

 

That's not a bad idea. Those neodymium mags are strong enough that that would work.

 

The stronger the magnets the harder they are to insert in the front and rear diffs. Funny, still trying to figure out a fix for that. Need to make a plastic insertion tool.

 

Thanks, Lou!

 

I see some guys running 75/85 and some 75/90. What does the manual state. What did you torque everything down to?

 

For those of you considering GoldPlug, my recent experience is their customer service is non-existent.

 

I purchased I think six quarts of oil to replace the front and rear diff oil in the last Tacoma I had. Never used it. Just placed it laying flat in my tool box bottom drawer. Does anyone know if the oil has a shelf life for just sitting? I wouldn't think so, but I'd hate for it to go to waste assuming it's the correct weight. It's Amsoil too so hate to waste it.