Header install

Ok, so I am planning on swapping my badly ticking factory manifolds for shorty headers that will fit with the exhaust I already have.

My question is for anyone that has done this before, did you just use new nuts on the studs or did you replace the studs? The studs from toyota are insanely expensive and the ones from dorman (while still not cheap) are not getting good reviews. I do not want to use bolts for fear of snapping off a head someday if I every need to remove them.

I'm hoping to get away with just buying new nuts (haha ) and use original studs. They are rusty but I would think they would still work....

Thoughts/suggestions? I'm open to other brands of studs as well.

 

@TUNDRAIN520 has JBA headers. Maybe he can help. I also have the extremely annoying ticking manifolds that I would eventually like to replace. I'm guessing it's not a fun job.

 

From what I have read it’s best to just remove the motor mounts and then it makes the job much easier. Still not easy, but easier. With this truck being in northern Ohio and Indiana all its life I’m certain I will have a tougher time than Florida or Cali folks would have!

 

Take some pics. I’ve heard this job is tough even for seasoned pros.

 

Will do. I didn’t find anything in depth on here so I’ll make something.

 

It was rated at 14 beers when I did it. My short summary:

Get Percy's gaskets for where the header flange meets the head.

Don't get Percy's gaskets for the collector pipes, those are garbage. Go with either what comes with your headers or I'll mention what works when the name co.es to mind, I wanna say Remflex.

Get a swivel adapter for your socket.
Consider getting new O2 sensors.
Get an inspection mirror.
Get a block of wood so you can use it on a floor Jack to gently lift your motor, you'll want to watch that you avoid the drain plug when you do this. You will save lots of time if you gently support the motor and take a motor mount off on the side you are doing, one side at a time.

I live in California and didnt have rust, I found it smarter to invest in those expensive castle nuts from Toyota rather than trying to pull studs and use bolts. They're damn expensive but if you check around you can get a decent price. I believe I used 8 per flange and 3 per collector, double check that count.

Let me know if you want info or have questions.

 

I have jba long tube headers on mine. I have a 6”inch lift kit and 3” inch body lift so headers were real easy to install

 

Cost wise, better buying stock or welding the crack than to replace with an aftermarket short header that doesn't give more HP and wont last as long if ceramic coated for longevity or not.
Studs, grade 8 is the hardest and Toyota doesn't have the market cornered on those used in their vehicles , so buy new ones that aren't OEM if ya feel like it.

 

Why would stainless not last long? Mine have been in for 10 years.

Part of the reason I used new nuts rather than bolts is I didn't want to put grade 8 steel bolts into the aluminum heads. At least with the studs I had some comfort level that I wouldn't strip the aluminum, the nut would spin on the stud before that would happen.

 

You cant weld stock exhaust headers they are made of cheap cast iron. Also aftermarket headers are cheaper,and will offer better performance. Stock are junk and cheap to make

 

Had Gibson stainless headers in a chevy that started to deteriorate after 10 yrs. Wasn't impressed with them or the Stage 8 header fasteners. If anyone strips an aluminum head out with a stud or bolt then those people typically don't have enough experience turning a wrench, but eventually they will get the hang of it.

I've seen stock headers welded for over 40 yrs now and am not surprised to hear of it being done. Poor people usually do it, or they go to the junk yard. Also aftermarket headers ($600 and up last I looked) are not cheaper than stock. Short headers don't give significant performance over stock, but long tubes do.

Header fasteners:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/header-fasteners?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/sto...&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false

 

Installed JBAs did not replace studs
If you think the ticking is going to go away by installing Headers you are wrong it gets worse with headers

 

No doubt long tubes are better for performance, but the OP wants a direct replacement.

@rodneysworld are you talking first gen or later? My first gen doesn't tick from the shorties.

 

You can weld cast iron. People do it all the time. You just have to know how.

 

I actually already have shorty headers sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed. I wouldn’t mind long tubes at all, but don’t want the expense! I have no doubt they have better performance, it’s purely from a financial standpoint. Rather put it into other things for the tundra!
So far I think I’m going to buy new studs, nuts, and gaskets. I can’t imagine how mad I would be if I go through all this headache to end up having an exhaust leak once I was done.

 

If the ticking doesn't get fixed by removing the leaking exhaust manifolds then whats the actual cause?

 

2011

 

That’s awesome, what all was involved for the install? Do you have an x pipe or h pipe? Can you take some pictures of your system? I’ve been curious about the jba long tubes.

 

Exactly. Mine used to ‘tick’ when idling and hot on a hot day. Like a popping ‘tick’ from the drivers side under the hood.

Ever since new VC gaskets and PCV and ig coils and synthetic oil and whatever else... no mas tick.

 

You are spot on sir! My Tundra ownership goes waaaaay back. I bought the first year Tundra about 6 months after they came out and had some SAS chrome headers and chrome Y pipe installed after about 4 years of ownership. At the time these headers were “all the rage” because they were cheap, but not as good as JBA. I had one of my Dad’s car club buddies install them. The guy normally worked on hot rods, but since my Dad was his friend he said that he’d do it. So I took my truck by his shop to get an estimate, there weren’t many Tundras cruising around back then, he looked at it and said I’ll do it for $250...$250!!!!! I was like hellz yeah!

I dropped it off the day before and when I went to pick it up the next evening that poor guy looked like he had been tussling with a bear!!!! He told my Dad and me that he and his buddy had worked on my truck from about 8 that morning and only stopped once for lunch. He told me
do not tell anyone how much he charged! I remember my Dad laughing and asked him was it that tough and he was like “Hell yeah!”. Then he said that this was his first and LAST Tundra header job!. Keep in mind there were virtually no one doing “odd” jobs on Tundras back then and if I remember correctly the dealer wanted something like $1200 to do the install!

Anyway, after a few months the headers began to tick and ticked until I traded it in 2016. My Daddy and I did put some better gaskets on years later, but we could only do the passenger side and it took us hours to do that one. It was quiet for maybe 2 weeks...maybe! Those headers did make my Flowmasters sound extra deep and mean tho!

I have no desire to put headers on the ‘05 I bought about 6 months ago. So far the stock manifolds are quiet.

 

When I first had my JBA long tube headers on, it was with the stock exhaust. Just by adding the long tube headers, gave my truck a lot more deep tone to it. They do add more hp and torque. I had mine installed by a shop and they said they hated the install.

 

Exactly my Mechanic said never again on a tundra 2 days later I got my truck back with with little to. No gains my sweet spot is at about 4000 rpm low rpm sounds like exhaust leak I already had dual exhaust and I should have left it that way... ** 2 out of 5 stars

 

It honestly isnt THAT bad if you plan it well and are equipped. I don't know why there is so much fuss.

 

You have a 2nd gen, your experience may be different from the first gen crowd.

 

If I remember correctly, I’m going back about 12 years, the Toyota service department’s quoted install time was 14 hours! Now that may be a bit much, but who has more tools and expertise at their disposal than the Toyota Service mechanics? Have you done the install?

 

Sorry didn’t answer your question, I bought Toyota studs.

 

Took me about 6. If I did it again I could be done in 4. It really isn't that bad.