2011 5.7 falling on its face.

Ok so sometimes when I leave a red light or floor it to get around someone and just pin it my truck will shift to second gear and fall flat on its face. It will actually slow down with my foot to the floor. It will also flash the traction control light. Even if its fully turned off. It runs good in first but after that nothing. Doesnt always do this though.

Any ideas what anyone might think it is? Ive searched and havent found much related to this. Any info would help! Thank you.

Truck is on 35s and has an intake and muffler delete.

 

Do you actually push the gas pedal to the floor?

 

Yes I do. But when it falls on its face I try to pedal it to get it to wake back up and it never does.

 

hmmm... might try just going 50-75% down on the pedal and see if you get the acceleration you want.

 

Its bad. Like I said the traction control light will flash and it will almost completely shut down when its doing this.

 

Don't ever push the gas pedal to the floor, try only going 50%, maybe 75% to the floor under "hard" acceleration. That's what I'm getting at.

 

You are spinning a rear tire and the computer is applying the brakes. Turn off your traction control. But be prepared to replace tires more often as you will be wearing them out.

 

Probably just watched dukes of hazard too many times

 

Are you hitting the RPM limits? If so that may be the truck doing it's own thing to save itself.

 

I noticed this too in my '07 5.7, however if I turn on "Tow/Haul" it seems to be much better behaved. I never realized it was actually spinning a tire until the last couple days with the window down and heard the tires spinning. Stupid Nannies!

 

Its probably your trucks steering wheel/ gas pedal actuator inducing the problem. You may get away with it a few times but sooner than later it will stop.

Try cleaning the maf.

More times than not its comical to watch people do that since typically they are in a monumental hurry to stop.

 

I know the tires arent spinning. Im not hitting the limiter. I dont even have to be high up in RPM for it to happen. Like I said it runs great in 1st gear always and sometimes will hold WOT just fine up to 80mph. But other times it will shift to second and just shut down. I can do burnouts and it wont apply traction control with it disabled. But even if I do a pull with the TC fully disabled it will fall on its face in second and kick on traction control.

Im trying to figure out why. Like I said. I can fully disable TC and do a big burnout. But then I could also just hit WOT and it will downshift and completely die out and engage TC EVEN WITH IT DISABLED. Again no tire spin either or rev limiter.

 

2011 was the first year for the Toyota Trailer Sway Control safety feature. Anyone had any issues related to that that might then show up as sluggish acceleration (or, AKA, cutting spark)?

 

just keep at it these abuse induced conditions are self diagnosing.

 

That's some solid advice right there.

 

Starting to feel alot like Pirate4x4 in here lol Yes I use my truck and it gets abused from time to time. But we should all be able to floor our trucks without TC kicking in with NO tire spin and it COMPLETELY DISABLED.

 

NOT if you're the insurance industry.

 

Without any experience or knowledge of either....could a wheel sensor or ABS sensor be causing the issue? The ABS sensors are very exposed and vulnerable to damage.

And I agree, if you want to punch it you shouldn't have issues doing so. Ultimately, it's your wallet and your Tundra. I don't often floor it on the streets, but I know I hit WOT often while offroading, and expect my truck to perform as such when I do

 

It sounds like your transmission is probably worn out from rough use.

 

Thank you! Someone who gets it haha. I have thought about it possibly being a sensor purely because traction control is kicking on when it shouldnt....even when its fully disabled. If it was just falling on its face without TC coming on I might look into fuel delivery. I run Premium too.

 

Ive thought this too. Wondering if the trans is slipping and the truck thinks that the tires are slipping when they arent.

 

How are you disabling TC? I know in my Gen3 it's a whole process. I'm not sure about a Gen2. You might not be fully disabling it.

 

I push the button once. The "auto LSD" light come on. I then push and hold it for about 3 seconds. The "auto LSD" light goes away but then comes back on along with the yellow "trac off" light.

 

In my Gen3 I have to hold it again for 3 seconds, then I get a message saying, "Traction Control is Off". So my process is push button, hold for 3 seconds, then hold for 3 seconds again.

Again, the process I described might be only for a Gen3. Just a thought.

 

Exactly my guess

 

Just ran it by my pops, who is a retired lifetime Chevy mechanic, his first suggestion was the trans as well

 

How about a zero point calibration. Look into it

 

Pretty sure what you're experiencing is the PCM, Power control module. The computer is anticipating a potential loss of control caused by the hard acceleration. Turning TC off does help but it's not the "cure all." I never experienced this in my '07 or my '10 but my '16 seems to be much more sensitive. I installed a Bully Dog tuner and that pretty much fixed the issue.

 

Your truck’s power is causing a wheel to spin and the traction control is kicking in. Turning off the traction control will fix it, but, each time you park the truck and start it up, you will have to do the same thing over again. The Bully Dog tuner has the settings where you can permanently disable the traction control. Or you can buy a traction control delete module that someone on here makes and sell.

 

To me, "falling flat on its face" means sudden loss of engine power and rpm, like cutting fuel or spark. What exactly is happening to engine rpm during this behavior? You have said it isn't hitting the rev limiter, but is that because the engine is not responding to WOT pedal input?

If the engine rpm isn't responding to WOT, then it's not a slipping transmission. If the engine rpm is not responding, then you have a controls issue (pedal, throttle position sensor, engine speed sensor, etc), or possibly environmental control system haywire. Beyond shotgunning with parts exchange, diagnosing such problems is probably going to require professional help.