JBL owners with aftermarket headunit via idatalink maestro

Well Son of a bitch. that worked, thanks for the info, man!!! it was weird because it wouldn't go down at all... but after like 8 seconds holding the down switch, it just went all the way down... i held it there for 10 seconds to be safe.... then put it up and held it up another ten... and now its back to normal!

sometimes i have no idea what i'd do without forums like this one hahahhaa.

 

Glad it worked. Now I just need to remember it if it ever happens to me.

 

Well, I went ahead and installed the OBD plug in today since I had the HU out to install my front cam. The constant hot issue didn't happen this time, so all is good there.
Adding it gave me these 2 screens (pic borrowed from B737) except I don't have the menu options at the bottom of the screen like he does, I just have the < and > icons with nothing in between. Also, the TPMS readings don't match what my digital tire gauge reads. One tire was close, another was way off, so I'm not sure what is going on there.





As far as the idatalink Maestro, I tried reflashing it to see if I could change some of the options for the steering wheel. Unfortunately it was a no. I can't believe they don't have an option where the preset scan buttons on the steering wheel don't work to toggle thru the presets. I left it on scan, but it's annoying.
Does anyone using the DDX9904s have a lag with their ipod, or it not playing the song that you select on the screen? It might be because I'm not using a compatible ipod though.

 

So its weird.... I have all the gauges, both pages of them and they all function except for the Fuel gauge for some reason. And this is WITHOUT the OBD plug. However i do NOT have any TPMS data at all. On the TPMS page tho i still get battery voltage, gear shift position, and any doors that are open show up. when i had the OBD plug in i obviously also got the TPMS info, but it seems like that was the only thing to go with the plug (besides the constant power thing haha)

I talked to a guy who said if i solder a 1 amp diode between the OBD wire and the existing resistor on the harness that connects it to the power wire it should stop the power backfeed, but won't be sure until i do it if it will allow the data to pass thru. so i'll be trying that on monday and i'll report my findings.

For the steering wheel controls, i dont feel like the tundra SWC did that in the first place, mine was just track forward and track back for the up and down, and ffwd and rwnd were the left and right keys, but in radio function i don't remember it scanning thru the preset stations i had, which i thought was odd, but i never really used them in any mode but the bluetooth music and/or Pandora etc. apps.

As far as the ipod issue you mentioned, I use mine with my iPhone SE (I don't like having a flat screen TV in my pocket haha) but i only use it via carplay, and i have had no issues whatsoever with that.

 

Definitely a few differences between 2nd and 3rd Gens. I didn't have car info or gauges at all with out the OBD plug.
And I know mine scrolled thru radio presets with the stock HU.......that and the volume knob are the only thing I miss from my stock HU.

 

Does the radio stay on with the doors open or doors closed? The Tundra keeps power to the radio until a door has been opened.

As for the steering wheel controls, this is an easy fix from the radio head unit. If you go to the radio screen, at the top, in the middle you will see either Auto1, Auto2, or Manual. Changing this will change how the radio stations are searched. Manual will adjust incrementally so 102.5, 102.7, 102.9, Auto1 will tune to the next available radio frequency, and Auto2 will switch between programmed stations.





Hope this helps.

 

Are you talking about he parking assist still being there? Because I have an 18 with the same head unit as yours and a maestro rr like you but im not getting the parking assist screen and on the head unit it greyed out. Did you do the parking brake bypass? That and the answer/hangup on steering wheel isn't working.

 

Are you talking about he parking assist still being there? Because I have an 18 with the same head unit as yours and a maestro rr like you but im not getting the parking assist screen and on the head unit it greyed out. Did you do the parking brake bypass? That and the answer/hangup on steering wheel isn't working.

 

my truck is prob different than yours since yours is 3 years newer. all my parking sensors are present and show on the center dash screen. its pretty basic on the 2015, you prob have a entirely different parking assist system than my basic sonar one. But yes they still appear on the dash. All the steering wheel controls work as they should. yes my truck has the bypass

 

thank you for the reply! I think i got you and JoeJob mixed up.

 

Hello everyone, I have a 2014 tundra limited jbl and installed a Kenwood ddx9903s with the maestro i data link. The sound is off in the truck. I am missing certain stages or parts of the music from the front. It sounds as if the right front dash is not on or door speakers is not on. Has anyone had any issues with this?

 

can you tell us how you installed, wired the speakers ect.

 

Hello B737, The head unit was installed with a Maestro RR with the T02 harness and u02 for the usb port. Had someone install it, however his company has disappeared. It should all have been plug and play from what I understand. Not sure if this guy got his rca's crossed or one is not connected right. curious if anyone has had the same issue.

 

I wanted to chime in on this thread. I have a 2014 Platinum w/JBL, installed an Alpine iLX-F309 HU with an iDatalink Maestro RR. I'm having the same always powered on with the OBD2 plugged in issue (after a few days of working fine oddly) but anyway, apparently snipping that diode will work according to the iDatalink tech so I'm not worried about that. It's currently disconnected and I get everything (all gauges, tires PSI/Temp, Which doors are open) so I'm not sure what all is even coming over that lone grey/red st wire?

I did want to get some input on wiring. When I wired up mine, the Maestro instructions instructed me to NOT wire up rear speaker wires when you have the factory JBL amp. I'm wondering if this is affecting my sound quality negatively any. I'm considering an amp bypass, thoughts?

 

I know this is an old thread but I wanna get in and see what you guys have done since you installed this stuff
I just got a kenwood head unit and ordered a maestro and harness. I also have recently upgraded all my speakers from the tech12volts group buys. The speakers sound much better than they OEM JBL stuff did but still not quite there for me.
My question is, did installing the new headunit and maestro make the OEM JBL amp and system overall sound much better. I ask because I am considering just doing that vs adding an amp to run all my speakers. Adding the amp will cost me around another 400 bucks all said and done. If the new headunit is enough to push my JBL amp a little better then I will skip the amp install. What would you recommend? Have any of you added amps since posting here?
Thanks!

 

I'm a few weeks away from overhauling the entire thing (minus the rear speakers). I installed a

$599 Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX In Dash Multimedia Receiver with 7" WVGA Clear Resistive Touchscreen Display

Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX last year and that made the factory speakers sound quite a bit better, but it still needs work. I'm going to be replacing the front speakers with a Hybrid Audio Unity 3-way setup and then I'm going to install a JL 500/5 amp that I had in my Tacoma. This amp will pump 100 watts to the door speakers, then 25 watts to the dash speakers and tweeters. I am going to run the stock rear speakers off the Pioneer radio since I usually have those turned way down anyway, and the amp will push 250 watts to a JL 10TW3 sub that I will put in a custom box behind the seat.

I consider myself an audiophile, which is why I'm replacing the speakers and adding the amp, but the other thing I'm doing is treating the doors and back of the cab with sound deadening material from RaamAudio. My stereo actually sounds pretty solid when I'm not moving, but as soon as that road noise starts coming in all bets are off. I have a feeling that it will sound much better once the road noise is dialed down, although you're probably still not going to get the bass you're looking for without at least a new sub amp.

 

My Kenwood DNX695S sounds way better than stock. Previously it was hard to tell there was an amp, it did so little. Much better now.

 

My Kenwood gauges aren’t reading TPMS so just wondering if your Kenwood is displaying the readings your truck? I read on here that there’s a possibility there were no sensors installed on the 2010s.

 

Mine is. Older model ddx9902s in a 2015 tundra. I though all trucks and SUVs from something like 2008+ are required to have tpms

 

I ended up completing my project in a day. Took me quite a while but I also added and amp in place of the JBL amp that took most of my time. The head unit and maestro were pretty simple. I prewired everthing at the kitchen counter and brought it out for a few final connections. Very straight forward til you get to the replacement amp. I love it so far too, sound is amazing and features are pretty cool, even though I'm running a 4 year old head unit.

 

After going though with my install. I feel pretty confident to say that even if I had not replaced the amp, the system would have sounded significantly better with the kenwood and maestro installed. You program your maestro for either OEM JBL amp or aftermarket amp. I'm actually running all my dash speakers off the head units speaker outputs and they sounds really really good. Infact they overpower the door speakers connected to my JL audio amp. I need to set the gains and frequencies still.
The head unit give you control to turn up the gain on the stock amp as it feeds it more power, plus the just the speaker out wires sounds amazing. If I had to do it all over again (and didn't have a good amp just laying around) I would not have installed a new amp. The kenwood is enough to wake up the factory amp and lets you really control how it sounds. You can adjust each speaker level individually, including the sub. You also have the hertz speakers which sound a ton better when pushed by the kenwood. And the maestro is a pretty cool little unit.
If you ever decide you want an amp down the road you just need to reprogram thevmaestro.
I say go for it!

 

Yeah I think you’re right about regulation requiring TPMS valves and I do have a warning light that goes off when my tires are deflated. I upgraded wheels with aftermarket sensors so I now would if the tire shop needs to do some more programming in order for the ODBC to read PSI.

Thanks for the input.

 

Playing around with the sound settings in the Kenwood setup menu indeed result in a noticeable improvement with the JBL system.

 

Mine show up on the home page, where you can choose from different "widgets" like compass, and two different styles of clock. Tire pressures are one of the widgets on my unit. They do not appear on the gauges. My 2010 came with TPMS.

 

Sorry I was referring this as the gauge screen.



If your wheels show PSI then it’s either my aftermarket sensors or my install.

 

Thanks Rob

I think the tire shop may just need to register or reprogram the sensors so the Kenwood can display temp readings

 

It's worth a try I guess. I have the stock 20" rims. The factory TPMS never put the warning light on, but when I installed the Kenwood, I found the RR was 9 psi below the rest. It's definitely nice to have the readouts.

 

I thought the stock JBL was good enough listening, but upgrading with aftermarket HU has opened both my eyes and ears. I think the RR has enough readings to make even our 2nd gen low tech trucks a bit more modern