What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Safelite is pricey. I just got a quote from a local shop a few weeks ago for my windshield it was only $180 installed.

 

The $35 mobile charge plus not having to sit in a waiting area with other goons is priceless. I did a bunch of prep and let the guy do his thing when he got there. Kept an eye on things too. Guy was pretty meticulous.

The job takes an hour plus the truck needs to sit an hour before touching or driving it so I took care of other business. Pulled all the rubber gaskets off and cleaned the tracks out. Silicone sprayed and wiped down the rubber before put back. Looks like new gaskets and they should drain nicely as designed.

Installer said most 1st Gens are all owner caulked and rusted up around the windshield. He said mine was the best condition he has seen. All those waxings over the years are paying off.

Lifetime Warranty work and they come back to you. I’ll pay the $100 premium for that.

 

Glad you didn't find out the hard way.

 

Dug up this old post from searching. I'm going to give this a shot. You're right that SAE 90 is like a unicorn. I'm skeptical that the

$39 75W 90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75W 90 Royal Purple is my problem but it's worth a shot.

I don't see any mention that it has the friction additive though?

 

Lucas 80-90w for limited slip

 

Coulda almost been like the rear bumper fiasco.

 

Read the specs!

 

Thanks. No mention of it on Advance website. I'll give this a shot.

 

That's the stuff I have been running and not needed any additives. Straight 90 is hard to find, you could order it but that's cheating.

When I first had my diff installed I used some off the wall brand 90w from Kragen. It came in a black bottle, that's all I remember. Kragen has been O'Reilly's for a while now lol.

 

Thanks, I'm doubtful that the Royal Purple

$39 75W-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75W-90 is my problem since I've had it in there since last summer but at this point I might as well put in something closer to spec. It's a cheap(possible) solution. If this doesn't work I'm gonna open my wallet for OEM U Joints which my shops claim are really Spicer's in a Toyota box.

 

Comes with ‘Climbing Additives’ and my favorite... ‘Power Dividers’. Its gotta be good!

 

Ordering up (2) of these.

 

There's only a few auto glass shops in my area and they were all around that. If I could had got it for that price I would have been ecstatic.

 

You should be able to pick a couple of those guys up at Napa for under a buck.

 

@FirstGenVol what sort of trouble are you having? Do you have LSD?

 

When the tundra is clean and you don’t want to get her muddy, you bust out the big boys:

 

Yes on the LSD. I'm getting some sort of thump or shutter when I am coming to a stop. Thought it was a bad U Joint. Had a shop pull the drive shaft, replace the carrier bearing and rebalance the shaft. They said the U Joints looked fine. Just finished draining and filling the rear diff to see if that is the problem.

Edit to add, the magnet on the drain plug looked great. No metal shavings at all.

 

Was having extremely low idle rpm. Made my headlights dim even and felt like it wanted to die. Never did, but felt like it would.

So cleaned the throttle body which was insanely dirty. I mean completely coated 3 of those blue shop rags that are paper towel. Bet it was never done and the truck has 219,250 on it. Cleaned the MAF as well. Bought the special MAF spray and special throttle body spray.

Drives amazing now. Feels like a new truck. No more low idle and great throttle response.

Ordered a new PCV and grommet today. Also new air filter. Just because I want to make this ol girl last for a LONG time. Got the idea from reading this whole thread! Glad I joined the forum, learned a ton!

Also bought tires. Gonna see if can make them fit. Have all factory suspension, but I have aftermarket KMC Enduro wheels. 17x9. -6mm offset and I believe 4.7” backspacing. I got an insane deal on some great condition 285/70/17. I know heaight wise I’ll be ok with some trimming, my main concern is if they hit the UCA. I will report back for fun and let ya’ll know. Getting it in the shop Friday.

 

Those will be a tight fit I think. I bet you'll have a slight frame rub. Not a big deal though. Just means you have a good excuse to upgreade the suspension. At 219k it's likely overdue. Let us know how it goes.

 

How are your leaf springs? Are they old and sagging? Or do you have a lift with blocks? It could be axle wrap or some sort of pinion angle issue.

 

Well they are 17 years old but don't appear to be sagging. The truck has some forward rake.

I leave for Europe in a few days. One I return I'm ordering an Icon expansion pack plus new coilovers and shocks. I'll be removing the overload spring at that point. I'm curious if that has any impact on the issue.

Thanks for the tips. I'm really at a loss honestly.

 

I figured some frame rub. That’s ok. And yes. I’m literally redoing the entire suspension. Just buying parts as money comes. UCA’s, OEM LCA’s, OEM lbj’s. Already did steering rack and pinion/poly bushings and inner/outer tre’s as far as the suspension. Gonna go with sway-a-way coilovers I believe. Pretty stoked.

Definitely gonna keep everyone posted! Love this forum.

 

Wife said I got a box delivered by UPS, got excited , thought my shocks were in I had ordered but instead I got the base plate kit for my roadmaster tow bar ( gonna flat tow this puppy behind Class A motorhome) got the baseplate installed except for one hole on each where I have to drill a 1/2 inch hole straight through from bottom up on frame and didn't have a good 1/2 bit. At least I did get to check fit of my old crossbar from another vehicle and it fits perfect. Then I started removing tires to get new tires I ordered mounted. ( I ordered some Michelins for a great price and I have driveshaft removed waiting on driveshaft disconnect for flat towing so I will take tires and wheels to tire shop) Removed rear brake drums , on drivers side I threaded a bolt into the drum for removal and started turning, the drum started coming off, then with about 1/4 inch to go the thread stripped , crap I started looking for my tap and die kit and didn't have correct size needed so I went to passenger side, this time I used a grade eight bolt but only had one so I did each hole on from just a few turns , alternating sides and got it off , well I thought what the heck , I will try drivers side again with this grade 8 bolt and low and behold it sorta threaded itself , was going in good and got drivers side off. Moral of the story, use a grade eight bolt when removing rear brake drums on Tundra.

 

^ yup, I had a similar experience with a Honda long ago. I keep a few grade 8 bolts in my tool box just for brake removal now.

 

I considered this moisture situation you discuss here when I did my doors like Jerry. I placed the foam up high and along the side perimeters outside of the drip line of the window. If you are in a dry climate then doing foam in the entirety of the door is fine. Also, it not necessary to butyl the entire door. Strategic placement around speakers is key, then small squares for 30% coverage max on the door. This saves material costs resulting in the same benefit.

Pictured is my door using big box peel and stick butyl tape and HVAC foil tape to achieve the same results as Jerrys. There is butyl tape inside behind the factory plastic, as well. Also, used some weatherstripping around the clip attachment points (see little white strips). Gives great sound/vibration protection transferring onto the plastic panel after put back.

 

How do the brakes look? No oil seepage from the axle seals? @Dpy

 

No, they are dry, no oil leaks . They are still probably 1/8 " thick . I will get new ones anyway and do a bit of adjustment .

 

I just got some tint on the windows. Paint is next! What’s the average cost for paint nowadays? I just want to make sure I’m not getting ripped off. No body work needs to be done.

 

Depends on your desired level of finish.

$ Ranges is from: 1) Throwing a bucket of paint on. 2) Applying a decent paint to look good till the check drys. 3) High quality deep glossy multiple coats finish with a good primer base.

 

Maybe this picture doesn't show the problem but your paint doesn't look that bad, just dirty. What's the problem exactly?