Diagnose this sound? SCS Ray 10 & Bilstein 6112 Pics Included :)

Hey Friends,

Still somewhat new to the forums (already introduced!), and Tundra's in general - have worked on Jeep's most of my short life so far (24 ha). Forum was a huge help with sourcing what I wanted to spend $$$ on and for the install. This past weekend I leveled the truck with Bilstein 6112 (1.9") and threw some SCS Ray 10's on with 285/70/R18 Nitto Ridge Grappler's.

First off, Darren @BOSS4x4s was awesome to work with, same can be said of @SCSPerformance - great guys and definitely recommend working with them.

All went well with the install, and love how it turned out. Was able to get a pretty solid decent alignment, but definitely took them some time. My Caster is the only thing not in the green, though total toe is 0.30...

Now the problem, can anyone help me diagnose this sound? Its almost a clicking noise, and its hard for me to diagnose since it only happens when driving and seemingly not due to any one type of motion. Linked a video w/ 3 short clips of it below (may need sound up), sorry to add additional clicks! Really appreciate anyone taking the time to chime in, included some pics so there is something to look at!





Attached alignment specs since it came up. Still some work to do.

 

Interesting, I think the first thing I would do is reinstall the factory wheel/tire and test to see if the sound is still there. If so, then I would move to the shock. Start with the new parts obviously. What all was removed during the replacement of the shocks? I think I would take it back to the alignment shop if you don't find anything unusual.

 

Have you checked the bolts on the skid plate? That things is notorious for rattling.

And I wouldn’t say you have a sold alignment if your caster is off. Caster is probably the most important aspect of an alignment on these trucks since the caster will affect the camber and overall drive ability of the truck.

 

The truck is only 8 months old or so, so wouldn't think the skid plate bolts are loose. Everything that I touched during the install is tight, I've check the last two days after work and tightened down further anything that loosened up.

Fair point, I guess I should have clarified relative to what I was expecting. I am going to take it to another shop this weekend, though I do have stock UCA's. Only at 1.9" on the Bilstein's.

 

For the install, it required dropping the LCA's, the sway bar, the tie rod ends, and then obviously the OEM coil-over's. May try the switch as you suggested, but it really does not seem like the sound is related to the wheels/tires - but that would help to eliminate potential issues.

 

I have the same setup at 1.9” and though it took the right shop to get my alignment right, everything is in line and the truck drives better than it did stock. So it’s very attainable with stock UCA.

Does it only make the sound when turning or all the time? I would still go back around to everything you touched and retorque.

 

Glad to hear that, I kept it at 1.9 to be conservative with the stock UCA's. I am no expert when it comes to alignments, still getting a grasp on it broadly.

The sound does seem to happen mainly when turning, which made me think tie rod, but its tight and the cotter pin is in the correct location so did not want to torque it down too much. I have re-torqued everything for the last two days, but will do it again after work today. Appreciate the responses.

 

BUMP! Thanks guys.

 

Yeah, the reason I suggested going back to the original wheel was because I developed a popping noise on my other truck and after digging into it, all the lugnuts had worked loose and the wheel was obviously moving around. I had removed the wheels about two weeks earlier and I guess this one I either didn't torque, or it worked loose.

 

I heard a ticking noise that I thought was associated with 1) wheels spacers 2) hub covers 3) tie rod 4) cv 5) skid plate 6) sway bar

Turned out my tpms sensor broke and the plastic was rattling inside the wheel and bumping against my wheel

 

Have the same truck and exact same setup. A few things to double check.

The nuts that are welded within the frame for the Sway Bar to bolt onto the frame can break the welds, therefore resulting in movement when turning. Ask me how I know? Check for this.

Check the TPMS sensors as others have noted.

Triple check you aren’t running your bumper. That tire size will rub on that lift. Again, I know this from experience. I ordered the 1/2” bumper spacers to clear the 285/70R18 Ridge Grapplers.

Finally confirm your 6112 isn’t hitting/touching the Sway Bar endlink when turning. My setup is darn close when parked, always worried about that being an issue.

-George

 

I had a noise similar to that. Mine was my sway bar links. Removed the sway bar, problem solved

 

Really appreciate it man, I had trouble with the tire shop messing up multiple things, so this shouldn't surprise me. I raised the front left tire off the truck, and sure enough you can hear the TPMS sensor ratting around in there. It was driving me crazy, thanks again - now just to get the shop to fix it...wont be back there.

 

Thanks, George. Ended up being the TMPS sensors as noted above. Also, glad the sway bar links are not just me, mine are pretty close as well and was initially concerned, but have tested rubbing and it seems to be good.

Now to give this alignment a second try...

 

Glad you figured it out. But wasn’t your tpms light on on the dash if it was broken inside the wheel? The 18s have an individual tire read out on the dash, so it should have shown which tire wasn’t reading.

 

Yeah the TPMS light was on, I should have thought more of it, I just thought they forgot to transfer the sensors over all together. Which goes back to the issues I had dealing with them. I thought the same as you said, in regards to it showing which tire was malfunctioning, but the entire system was/is not working.

Tried to reset, and still didn't work. So I do not get a read on any of the tires at the moment, that is what lead me to thinking they didn't switch over any.

 

What tire shop did you use?

 

I am in St. Pete, FL - but I used The Tire Choice and Total Care. Great google reviews, so was the safest option over your Firestone's of the world...

 

In my case the sensor was still intact. Just the housing had some plastic broken off. No tpms light

 

Had to go back to the shop, so while it was up on the rack I checked back on the sway bar. It is hitting the shock, just barely, but it is scratching it when the schock gets compressed. Need to look into how to fix this, any suggestions while I’m here?