Simple oil change question

2006 DC V8. Just started changing my own oil. Mainly because switching to synthetic and saving money.

But,

how do you guys change out filter without getting oil everywhere???

My truck has the skid plate thing below it and I can remove that, but was wondering if there was an easier way? Maybe one of those oil channel things that you can bend and shape…..

removing skid plate didn’t take long but I can save that step it would be super easy….

thx

 

Cut a half gallon milk jug in half and keep the lid on, stick it under the filter after you break it free and all the oil goes into the upside down jug

 

I remove the skid. It is just something I have grown accustomed too since access holes are usually not adequately sized to prevent a mess. A compact dewalt impact makes removing the bolts and skid a 38 second job.

 

I have one of those shapeable oil channel things, and it works okay. Before I had that, I had a 4” steel pipe that I cut lengthwise. Both worked alright.

I usually still spill a few drips- but I always chalk it up to rust prevention.

 

Drop the skid its the easiest way. Im lifted so its a lot easier and requires no jack

 

It's a frustrating thing with these trucks. It's still easy, but adds time and work to a very easy job. Be careful with the skid plate bolts. On my 98 Tacoma, after 20 years of oil changes, I had two stripped holes and one bolt head broken off. Down to just a couple bolts holding that thing in place...On & off & on & off & on & off over and over again through the years takes its toll. Just last year I finally took the skid plate off and left it off. Leaves me a bit more vulnerable than I'd like...but if take the truck down to the desert or otherwise know I'm going to be on challenging roads, I'll throw it back on.

For me anyway, losing a little oil down the side of the engine block when removing the filter is just part of the job. I wipe it down well, before installing the new filter. Then, when I'm paranoid and making sure there are no leaks, I don't have to guess whether the dripping oil is from changing the filter, or from a leak...

 

I've also seen people who've recommended wrapping it in a grocery bag.

My reality is, my skid plate has turned into one of those things where, instead of taking it off every time I do maintenance, I've started installing it when I know I'll need it.

In the last 2-3 years I've installed it all of twice, then removed it again when it was time for an oil change.

 

Yeah, take it off is my vote, I've done it that way for 23 years now. Use the time it's draining to wipe down the underside and look for any problems or small leaks, etc. When you replace the bolts that hold it on, I use a tiny amount of anti-seize on the threads to keep them spinning in easily, and just a good snug is all they need. Never lost one yet. Sometimes to do a job right, there are no shortcuts.

 

One method I tried which was okay (not great):

1) Using an oil filter wrench begin unscrewing the filter only to the point that it can be turned by hand but not far enough for oil to begin dripping out. This from above with the hood open.

2) Get a large (1 gallon) zip-lock bag and place it over the filter past the flange. Holding the bag into position, unscrew the filer and let it drop into the bag. It is a bit tricky but this will catch all of the oil as it empties into the bag. I put a small wad of paper towels under the place where it will drip once the bag/filter is removed.

3) Have the new filter ready to go, wipe off the sealing surface on the oil filter mount and install the new filter and tighten.

I've only done this maybe twice before I went back to the skid removal method.

Dan

 

Drop the skid plate (good time to check for leaks, clean up, etc) and use a Fumoto valve.

 

I always remove it. Then I spend a bit looking for coolant and oil leaks.

Found a weeping water pump once well before the timing belt replacement mileage.

 

A tip I learned years ago from a dealer tech is to use a punch (or even a 16d nail) to punch a hole in the lowest point in the filter. If you give it time to drain, it nearly eliminates the oil that spills out when the filter is removed.

 

That is something I always wanted to do, not only on my 2006 Tundra but my motorcycles as well. What I would do is start to loosen the filter first so you don't have to put the removal tool over an oily filter. Don't loosen it enough to cause to begin leaking oil but enough that you can spin it off after draining by hand. I even thought of inventing a tool, something like an over-sized plier that would punch drain hole in the bottom and air hole in the top so it would drain quicker. Never got that far and then sold my 2006 to my daughter.

Dan

 

I learned if from an old Volvo tech. The Red Block turbo oil filters would leak onto the rubber oil cooler hoses -- softening them over time.

I like your idea of punching a hole in the top for an air vent. I think I'll do that first, then hold a rag over the hole and punch the bottom hole -- will certainly help it drain faster.

 

Case in point: I just changed my truck's oil for the first time. One front skid plate bolt was already broken off in the hole. I broke another. Now it's being held on by one in the front (and not even the center one), two in back.

Along with the oil filter apparently being twisted in by a body builder, it was quite a first oil change experience on the new truck.

 

This is why - IIRC - someone said to install them w/anti-sieze.

I had to replace one of mine - was another thing that either the stealership or shop lost when my alternator caught fire.

Drill the old bolts. Use hardened steel bits. If you've never done it, center punch and use a bolt half the diameter to drill straight up thru the center Then use a unibit to open up that hole wider to drill more, then an EZ-out when there's nearly no shaft left.

 

Yeah, thanks. I've attempted it, but never successfully. Bought an extractor kit and immediately broke the bits, without making much progress. And the drilling out is a pain. It's one of those things I've considered pricing out with a mechanic. Sort of like my UBJs. I wasn't willing to do them until I got a quote for $1,000...Not sure what a mechanic would charge to drill out a couple bolts. But I don't deny, it's clearly a skill I should acquire.

For how rust-free this truck is, I'm surprised at the corrosion underneath, the fact that all the rock chips are rusty, and the general weathering of the exterior parts. Far more than my Tacoma, and this truck came from a more arid area. Maybe when it did snow there, they used more corrosive spray on the roads, or maybe the guy wasn't as anal as me about washing the it as soon as the roads cleared.

 

Two options:
1. Relocate oil filter with one of those kits
2. Get an aftermarket skid plate with a panel to remove or just open access to the filter.

 

Drilling out has a learning curve. And getting a good kit is key, and using really fresh, good quality drill bits, but it's not as important as how you approach it.

Really, it all boils down to getting as close to center as you can, running a pilot if you have low confidence, then continuing to open the hole for the largest possible extractor. You want to get rid of as much bolt shaft as possible. That's where most people fuck up. They'll drill a 1/16" hole on a 5/8" thick bolt and expect the puny extractor that goes with that 1/16" hole to actually have enough mass/strength to back out that thick ass bolt ... it'll never happen.

I've snapped off my fair share of stuff. And that's my takeaway. The way I described doing it has worked w/o fail numerous times. The biggest thing is to drill out as much of the fastener shaft as possible in whatever way you can. THEN try to extract.

Typically the heat generated from drilling will help loosen it up. If not, if there's more extractor than bolt, the extractor will win every time.

 

#2 isn't a bad call. On my Tacoma, the oil filter was in the side of the engine block, above cross beams and the front axle, so once it was out, oil ran multiple directions in multiple streams. An access hole wouldn't have worked for it. But on the Tundra, that filter is just hanging down there, and the cross beam (or whatever it's called) only gets a little oil. Most flows in one stream, straight down.

 

Do you have an extractor kit recommendation? I remember trying to find a quality one, and being frustrated. It's possible I did get a quality one and just made the mistake you point out - not drilling out enough of the bolt. Not sure.

This is what I bought.

 

I’ve got Irwin tools left handed cobolt drill bits and extractors.

 

I have 3 Toyotas with skid plates. I've learned that I need to drop them at least once every year so that the bolts don't rust in place, and to use plenty of anti-seize when replacing them. I say "learned" because I grew tired of drilling and re-tapping the bolt holes. Now dropping the skid plate is preventive maintenance, and as a bonus I can change my oil at the same time

Another "learning" while we're on this...be sure to lower the spare at least once every year, and lubricate the cable and mechanism generously. That way you won't need bolt cutters when you want to get to the spare. Just sayin'...

 

I coat my bolts in the used oil. They’re still the original bolts.

 

Some people may make fun of me, but the last set I bought was an Irwin set. I haven't had to buy another set in probably 15 years, so that's saying a lot. Granted, I don't live in the rust belt either, so those folks would be the better ones to ask.

I did break all the smaller Irwin extractors though. I still have the largest two of the five.

 

I think where a lot of people get in trouble is on the initial drilling. Metal needs to be drilled at SLOW speed, and with a lubricant -- so the bit can cut the metal. I'm sure a machinist can explain why a proper "cutting fluid" is superior, but honestly any oil will suffice for this purpose (motor oil, ATF, gear oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, whatever you have). The combo of slow speed and with oil will make the drilling go much faster, and will keep you from burning up your drill bits -- making them be more effective and last longer.

 

I don't know why these kits don't come with left handed drill bits. Many times the bolt will come out while drilling left handed and an extractor isn't even required. I highly recommend getting a set of left handed bits if you don't have them. This set is actually pretty good for the price:

$27 NEIKO 10037A Left-Hand Drill-Bit Set, High-Speed Steel Drills with Titanium Nitride Coating, Reverse-Twist Drill Bits, SAE Sizes, 15-Piece Set

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMJX8C

 

Well, I'll give it another shot once I'm through with all the other updates to my truck. The kit in the photo I posted includes left hand drill bits.

I think I saw a video of someone who used a floor jack, or something, to keep steady pressure on the drill while they drilled out a bolt. This was my problem - laying under the truck, drilling slowly, applying upward pressure in a tight space laying on my back, I eventually just lost the strength the keep drilling. I'm no beast, but I'm not weak either. Wedging a hand drill between the broken bolt and a floor jack seems like a workable solution.

 

Nice, you got a good set then. Interesting since the picture shows right hand bits.

 

Maybe they're being tricky with language? Or more likely I just don't know my technical terms. I knew I was looking for left-hand bits when I bought it, and the description says "left hand flutes".

$25 BOSCH BSPE6D 12-Piece Assorted Set Spiral Flute High-Carbon Steel Screw Extractor & Black Oxide Drill Bits Ideal for Removing Stripped Screws, Bolts, Fasteners

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G1M1TQG/?coliid=I2IICIYQWK8DG0&colid=2OK1A2A67D02C&th=1