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Wiring in Ham Radio

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by mcangeli, Sep 1, 2021.

  1. Sep 1, 2021 at 8:06 AM
    #1
    mcangeli

    mcangeli [OP] New Member

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    I finally (after 7 years) got around to reinstalling my 2M/440 rig in to my 07 Tundra.

    I have it wired directly to the fuse box (where the positive comes in) and ground but I want to wire it so that it comes on when the keys is turned to the ACC or ON positions and not always on like I currently have it.

    Any suggestions on where I should connect the positive wire?
     
  2. Sep 1, 2021 at 8:27 AM
    #2
    audiowize

    audiowize New Member

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    How much current does your rig pull?
     
  3. Sep 1, 2021 at 8:28 AM
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    TexAggie

    TexAggie New Member

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  4. Sep 1, 2021 at 8:37 AM
    #4
    mcangeli

    mcangeli [OP] New Member

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    About 13volts.
    I have a 15am fuse inline on the positive wire to it.
     
  5. Sep 1, 2021 at 9:09 AM
    #5
    audiowize

    audiowize New Member

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    13 volts isn't current.

    The device should tell you either its power consumption in watts or the amperage it draws. 15A might be quite a bit more than it actually draws.
     
    McYoda and ezdog like this.
  6. Sep 1, 2021 at 9:11 AM
    #6
    mcangeli

    mcangeli [OP] New Member

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    Sorry. Multitasking with work and only half functioning today... :)

    upload_2021-9-1_12-11-14.jpg

    Low end is 1.5A, high end is 10A
    The 15a fuse was recommended
     
  7. Sep 1, 2021 at 9:12 AM
    #7
    audiowize

    audiowize New Member

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    I think you could just tap into the 12V outlet in the dash. Just be mindful not to plug anything else in there that draws a lot of power.
     
  8. Sep 3, 2021 at 12:10 PM
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    greghoro

    greghoro New Member

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    Just a heads up.

    On my Sequoia, I have two “cigarette lighter” outlets in my dash and each one is protected by a separate fuse. In the owners manual, one is labeled PWR OUTLET and the other is labeled CIG.

    Had me puzzled initially when I was installing additional USB outlets.


    Greg
     
  9. Sep 3, 2021 at 1:59 PM
    #9
    abomb60

    abomb60 Maker of things

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    Mine is powered off a RigRunner under my drivers seat and that has power direct to the battery through a relay that is only activated when the ignition is on (positive trigger of relay goes to an add a fuse on an ignition only circuit). I would recommend doing something similar to keep the radio off other circuits so it has it's own (appropriately fused) power.

    I believe these are the relays I used (6 pack but you'll only need one). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBAO1SA?ie=UTF8
     
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  10. Sep 3, 2021 at 11:05 PM
    #10
    KK6PD

    KK6PD 1 YR. retired . . . after 42 yrs

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    New Tires, Stereo & Speakers,Uni-Strut Tie Down Continue watching THIS SPACE FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS
    Winning idea here!!
    I have been putting rigs into autos, trucks, for decades! You name it, I've done it.
    This is a excellent way to hook up a rig. Also note, when you run that #10 RED or better to the battery, run a #10 BLACK as well.
    DO NOT depend on the truck chassis as a perfect ground. The ground cable to the truck chassis from the battery may be corroded, and that results in a power drain situation right there! You don't need that!
    Adding a RFI filter in the RED + cable would be a good thing to help keep out any sort of electrical whine that's imposed on the DC system of the truck from getting into the TX or RCV of the rig.
    Another thought often overlooked is BONDING!
    Where you take some woven copper shield off a piece of RG-8 or better. You take that woven shield cable and make a really solid connection between the bed and the cab unit. Also do the same with the hood! You can place the lug & shield assembly in some shrink tube, I tend to saturate my grounding leads with solder, thus helping to reduce the cable oxidation process!
    The more flat surface you add to a ground plane, the more it helps your signal radiate from the truck body!

    !
     

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