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Winshield washer

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by taparilo, Mar 13, 2021.

  1. Mar 13, 2021 at 8:38 AM
    #1
    taparilo

    taparilo [OP] New Member

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    Tom
    Nevada City, CA
    Vehicle:
    2013 White Tundra TRD,Limited, Rock Warrior
    The winshield washer fluid dispenser on my 2013 quit working. Any ideas on what the fix might be?
     
  2. Mar 13, 2021 at 9:17 AM
    #2
    audiowize

    audiowize New Member

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    Paul B.
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    It's either the pump or the wiring going to the pump.

    You can unplug the pump and test the wiring with a test light.

    With the pump unplugged you can see if it's seized by applying an external source of DC voltage to it to see if it spins.
     
    1lowlife likes this.
  3. Mar 13, 2021 at 11:31 AM
    #3
    Dr_Al

    Dr_Al New Member

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    Al
    With the engine off but the ignition on can you hear the pump motor when you try to squirt washer fluid? The pump itself is cheap if you buy an aftermarket one (like I did). But my problem turned out to be a hole in the hose. It had dry rotted under the windshield cowl.

    I don't know why it would be any different but my '00 Tundra had the pump wired so it had power going to it all the time when the key was in the ON position. The ground went through the switch by the steering wheel. I found this out because something damaged the wiring harness and as it corroded the ground wire finally shorted to the frame and the pump came on and stayed on draining the tank. I had to pull over and pull the fuse to stop it.

    If you have a multi-meter you can easily test the harness. Unplug the motor and check both pins with the meter. One should have 12 volts on it when the key is on. Test on the other pin on the resistance scale. Have someone move the lever to try and squirt the fluid. When the lever is moved you should see the resistance go to zero. If not repeate once more. If it still isn't working then it's most likely a bad harness or possibly a relay.

    If you didn't find a pin with 12 volts on one pin repeat the test but on the resistivity setting on the meter. Check both pins and see if either is a short to ground. If one is then go back to the DC volts and check the other wire. Have someone move the lever to squirt the fluid. You should see 12 volts. If you don't see the resistivity go to zero or 12 volts when someone moves the lever it also sounds like a harness.

    If that checks out then it's most likely the pump. Or you could just spend the $15 ~ $20 and just buy a new pump and try it.
     

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