Will I need help changing the steering rack?

Hi. I ask what level of strength is needed to change out the rack? Had cancer which destroyed all superman strength and now consider myself a weak fellow. However, I'm set with tools that says the job will get done easy enough. Have the roll around full of em along with air tools and compressor to make things happen. Special tools for the front end job were purchased and probably have what's needed. If not will get it.

Bottom line is if I can change out the steering rack by myself, or is it mandatory to be done by two people? The trk will be up on 4 jack stands which will give good room underneath. I have all the time in the world to roll around under there because of being retired.
Because of the tools and having years of turning a wrench, am thinking a whole lot of strength won't be, or isn't required. But to me what's important is your thoughts/experience saying to run or get it done. That's what counts. Thanks guys.

 

I've heard it's not a fun job but I haven't don't mine yet. Anytime I'm working on my back like that for hours under my truck, my abs are sore the next day. How's your core strength?

I suppose if you aren't in a hurry you can do it yourself over the course of a few days.

Oh, and fuck cancer.

 

Thanks. The bone cancer was stage four and left me feeling somewhere around 70 now. Would probably drop 6' under if I knew what they charge for the job today, so reason for the DIY. Few days huh, I have a few weeks between Dr appts so it looks like a done deal. Thanks my man, have a good day

 

I think an extra long handle flex head ratchet may be necessary for the center rack bolt. It's been mentioned as a pain when guys are doing new rack bushings iirc.

 

You can do it

 

The rack wasnt too heavy, but it does help to have a 2nd set of hands especially getting the steering shaft inserted.

@bmf4069 anything stand out as the wrong kinda memorable? Aside from the hoses...

https://youtu.be/HCVRjquCBpA

 

Yep, get your “hands” dirty and get er done !

 

mine wasn’t to bad after I cut the center mounting bolt. Everything was going so smooth till that thing decided to be stubborn. Good thing is local ace hardware had an almost identical bolt in grade 8. Was able to finish the entire job in less than 5 hours.

 

I would plan to have an extra set of hands on standby if you need to hold up the rack for any reason.

Are you dealing with rust at all that may create difficulty getting the old line fittings off the rack?

 

While
Your at it is also change the rack bushings to a polyurethane higher grade set. Best $50 I spent

 

I have them but am on the fence about using them. I imagine the plastic bushings stiffen the steering and give quicker response because they don't give like rubber. However, the plastic doesn't absorb vibration as good and transmits feeling road imperfections much more. That makes polyurethane better for racing. But I really don't know and am just guessing. Do you think the plastic bushings last longer? I don't ever want to go down there again after replacing the rack, rebuilding the front end suspension, install rear shocks and put a Truetrack in the rear diff. The rear tire breaks loose to easy, especially on wet roads.

Hi Jack McCarthy, frame has zero rust. Live south where snow is only seen in pics. If I remember, plan to spray nuts/bolts the day before I get to that section.

 

I'd recommend a 2nd person mainly for removal and reinstall. But, it's not bad having someone who can work on one side while you work on the other. Biggest pain is the stupid bolts for the sway bar and that stupid bolt from the top for the rack. Oh, and the stupid steering shaft coupler. I'd second the poly bushings. They're great. While in there, I'd also recommend replacing the steering shaft seal.

 

I don't think you'll regret poly bushings. I would install them if you have them.

 

Worst part was the steering shaft coupler, even though I soaked with liquid wrench for a couple days, I had to beat it hard to get it up off the rack. This is a rust free southern vehicle as well, so make sure you do soak it first. I went with a Detroit Axle reman unit for $180ish and its been perfect so, but also has a lifetime warranty. You might as well replace your shaft seal while your at it- https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-steering-shaft-seal.48664/