White Smoke from exhaust

Hi all,

This is my first post, but I'm a long time reader. As the title says I am having white smoke at start up and when I fist drive the truck and sometimes under acceleration. The heavy smoke persist for 30ish seconds and intermittently under acceleration. More smoke the longer it sits. I'm not sure if I caused it or there is some coincidence. Quick rundown below:

-2010 Tundra 4x4 4.6 212K on the truck.
-Alternator went out. Changed it from the bottom by moving the PS pump over.
-The voltage regulator gauge has been bouncing since install. Per the scan tool it is charging but on 12.9-13.2ish and bouncing.
- I cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner thinking that was potentially a tune up / breathing issue for the motor.
-Noticed crystallization on the bottom side of the water pump. Swapped out the WP and thermostat. New belt and tensioner as well while i was there.
-All back together PS was whining and having white smoke.
-Not condensation. I live in the south and it has been consistently in the 90's.
-Truck does not have the vacuum valve that previous models had, but i swapped the PS pressure sensor out for good measure.
-I cant find a vent tube or anything attached to the PS system, but the exhaust smells like burnt PS fluid.
-No water in the oil or oil in the water and no overheating. Smoke doesn't smell sweet like antifreeze.
-Could i have done something while doing the repairs that caused the smoke? no leaks or such that I can see.
-I considered valve seals but this all started at the same time and after the repairs? Truck does use some oil but not very quickly and the smoke is white. (see pic)
-I am losing some PS fluid but that could be through the rack and pinion.
-I'm waiting on the Hewitt bypass for the SAIS, but that should be unrelated in my head.

I'm grateful for any ideas anyone has.

 

Pulling in brake fluid from a vacuum line or a blown head gasket. Pull any brake related vacuum hoses and see what results.

 

Thank you

I did not think about the brake fluid. Ill look and see what vacuum lines are there and pull them. The booster itself is the first one that comes to mind.

I thought about a head gasket but was not having milky oil or over heating and both have been my experience before. If nothing else pans out this weekend I will do a leak down test on it.

 

Pull a couple spark plugs, and check for oil on them/threads. My valve cover gasket and associated gaskets were letting oil seep into the cylinder and found after replacement the light smoke I had at start up went away.

 

Thanks, I'll try that this weekend. It's pouring here and supposed to keep raining for till the weekend. I have a borescope and plan to check the cylinders as well. Was the smoke on yours as heavy as what's in my pic?

 

Does anyone have a link to a video or specs for valve seals replacement if I need that. I'm trying to figure out if I can use the compressed air to swap the seals or off I'll have to pull th heads.

Hope I don't have to do that but just planning ahead

 

Certainly not as heavy, only 2 of the 8 spark plugs had a fair amount of oil on them.

I would think if my valve cover/all plug seals were allowing oil to pass through I could see a heavier amount of smoke being the result.

 

Bad Valve stem seals tend to cause smoke on startup for a minute or so.

 

It overheat at all in recent history?

Although not common…that sure looks like a head gasket thru the internet. Were any of the plugs super clean?

If you have a borescope, the cylinder cooking water will appear cleaner than others. Top of piston and the chamber/valves will look great.

 

The truck has never overheated. When my son called me about the smoke that was my first thought as well. It has been smoking for a week now and still not overheating. I will not have a chance to pull the plugs until this weekend when the rain stops.

 

If thinking valve seat you could do a sea foam flush with the top end spray from the intake boot does smoke a lot after it is done I do it every 100,000 miles when check engine light comes on just pull battery term and rest it.

 

google search “combustion leak tester kit”